Bump, I want results for the latest clutch mod 🍿

They left floormat removal out of the installation instructions apparently.

Bled the master/slave some more, was considering putting the longer rod back in then decided against it.Took the car out and warmed it up, checked for clutch drag and it was still happening.Popped under , adjusted the clutch rod fully out and BAM … no more clutch drag. So I started...

Rebuilt master, OEM slave. I also bled the master again after I put it all back together. I haven’t bled the slave in that fashion, I’ve only pushed it in to close it, crack/close the bleeder.I have a 2600 pressure plate, my car makes around 350hp I think and I don’t care to make anymore hp...

Put everything back together, car shifts smoother, has a higher engagement point but still drags the clutch at like 6500 rpm’s ..to the point where the car rolls forward slightly. If I have room to back off my adjustment rod on my mc rod would that aid in reducing clutch drag or do I need to...

Interesting, I know you make more power than me, so would a low lb pressure plate still be able handle what you are currently throwing at it ?

Haha, I try to take useful photos, not only for my own reference but also for others. It does help my friend laid down a very pretty weld.

Yea I read some other threads to figure out the position. To be honest there wasn’t a ton of slop in the lever I ended up using. But yea I tried to put as close to the firewall as possible. It’s kind of hard to really determine since it’s loaded with the spring. Yup I threw the bronze bushing in...

If it drags at 7k but at 6800 it’s fine, would it be ok to just set your rev limiter at 6800 and just call it day ? That’s what I’m curious about.I got the pedal welded today.We’ll see what happens.

New used clutch assembly arrived so I began pulling the old one.It took me 3 hours to get it out, tore so much shit out trying to get it to come free.Anyways, I don’t think it’s the problem or I am not understanding something. The bushing was intact yet there was some evidence of wear on...

If you didn’t already get that adhesive off the side skirts then do yourself a favor and buy an eraser wheel… you can thank me later.You have to keep it moving when getting it off otherwise you’ll burn the PUR.

Is this video the definition of pedal slop? Clutch adjusted all the way in.Clutch drags at 7K. Go figure. 2g master rod pulled out.Back to the basics. Waiting on a bushing and some other components to rebuild the pedal assy.

Max stroke for me made the clutch feel like it was shuttering. That master rod isn’t a 2g one, just one I had laying around. What felt good was backing off about 1 or so turn from max.Super appreciate everyone’s responses thus far!

Yo Everyone!Let’s talk about chaos.So car was somewhat in storage while I picked up a 240sx, that project has been taking up my time but I finally had to go pick it up from a friends place.While driving home my clutch started slipping, seemed odd to me but it had been there for 100k mi...

I am actually not familiar with AEM, I run ECMLink on my DSM and I am pretty happy as it does what I need it to do. This instance is for a SR20DET swap into a S13 chassis.

Hey Yall,I am currently in the process of having a harness built for a different chassis and I was speaking with the wiring harness company where they indicated that my AEM V2 was "outdated". I am at the point with this build that I need a new harness built so I am considering different...

1G + RHD Galant

Check your local hardware store in the nuts/bolts section, I found a spacer at my local ACE that worked perfect.

Are you planning on pulling your old tag off or just putting this directly over it? If over it, are you going to rivet or another attachment method?

I've heard of both ways after doing some reading, it would be interesting to hear some experience for anyone that has recently done this on the car. Objectively it seams feasible, but I can understand why it would not work.

Slave is fine, I recently bled it to flush the fluid that was old.Finally found some threads on output shaft seals. I’ll pull the tcase to verify.

Typically don’t have to post due to being able to find the answer however not finding much..Go to take the car for a spin since I’m heading home for Thanksgiving, pull out and notice a pool of oil. Was super stumped for a minute until I smelled it and it was gear oil.Jacked the car up and...

Wrapping up water temp gauge install.Drained the coolant, pulled the blank plug on the back of the thermostat housing and then installed the temp sensor there. Used liquid thread sealer, I’m going to be pissed if this thing leaks. If I did it again I’d just pull the whole housing I think...

Here’s a short clip just tooling around a little bit with the 20G.

No surge issues, it spools just as quick as a 16G, but instead of eating shit at 5500 rpm it holds on all the way up top.

Definitely, I’m ten minutes from Bandimere. If you take the car to a track up north, let me know I’ll come pay a visit!

I actually copied your set up for boost.. I have a single on the A pillar for boost.

God damnit Nick, it’s for show! The temp gauge is in the mail 😂

Boredom strikes…Just been driving the shit out of this thing having tons of fun. Snapped a few photos on a long mountain cruise and back doing some creature comfort mods..Added a Momo Monte Carlo 350mm steering wheel, been after this for awhile, finally pulled the trigger.Swapped in a new...

thought you would say, I need to pay them a visit and get started.

What machine shop did you use for the work on the block?

I would also add that this car is insanely fun to drive at this power level.

I have not run it on a dyno, but I do run dead even with a Focus ST that made 360 on a hub dyno that I witnessed first hand. My car is on 22 PSI and a 95 mix. I think I could turn it up a lil more, but my IDC is 83-85% on 37 PSI base and a 190 pump. Squeezing that extra little bit hasn't really...

Can’t speak on FEAL, but for my weekend only car I run Megan Streets. I too have a particular ride height I prefer my car at and for that reason it made sense to spend the $650 on cheap coilovers. As springs/struts would be about halfway to that point. They handle well and I’ve had no issues on...

Is that the NRG short hub + quick release ? Are you happy with the length that it protrudes from the column? Would you mind posting an overview picture showing that ? Thanks! Looks like you got that fog light bracket to work !

I’ve been stalking your fb wanted posts wondering what you are up to, they make sense now haha.

I DM’d you some time ago as I saw you were close and you shared that! Much appreciated. Considering either them or MadCap Racing which does have a 4G torque plate. I recently found out they do all the work for Carz Performance and are there sister company.

Thanks man. Film photos at night are definitely in there own category , the color can shift a few different ways. Happy with how how these turned out.

Thank you !!!

Few photos I took on a film camera…

Did a new feed line as well. 4an stainless with a DEI heat sheathe.

New valve cover and Kiggly HLA.Chased all the valve cover mounting threads. Installed the metal half moon, hopefully it stops my leak in that corner.

Picking up where we left off…Broke a piece of the casting on my head off, there was still some decent threads back there so against my liking I decided to send it. Screwed the sert back in and moved forward. It was surprisingly stable.While installing the exhaust manifold studs I noticed...

Single pod w/boost on the a pillar. Dual gauge on the vent with AFR/Oil pressure. Power run from accessory fuse box in center console..

🤣🤣🤣

Porting the Evo 3 to match my turbo.. just took off the inner step portion.Couple stock 2g vs Evo3 comparison photos w/a 7cm gasket lined up. Openings: Stock 2g is around 54mm. Evo 3 is around 60mm.

Frikin a, ordered !

I really want to avoid putting another head cause this motor is about the end of its life but I was hoping to have some fun for the rest of the summer then take it down in the fall.