First I want to confirm that it is in fact bad. Perhaps it's ok and the wiring is bad and something else is bad. But based on all that I've read it's at the top of the list of likely culprits. I'll test it, and maybe do that silly LED to read the OBD1 code morse code thing to see if a code has...

Always hated that expression. I mean, what else am I going to do? :sneaky:

Hmm, interesting. Looking at the images of each on RockAuto, the Standard Motors TX32 actually looks somewhat better made. But it's probably six of one...

Well slàinte mhath to you too, Jim! :rolleyes:

Heh, all wisdom relates to Star Trek. Anyone under 40 is just a child.Btw just tried to test the temp sensor. Way too much crap in the way to get to it w/o cutting my hands. It's too cold and rainy today to tackle it but tomorrow I'll remove whatever needs to be removed to get at it. But I'm...

Hey, as you can guess with me being the original owner of a '92 DSM I'm not that far behind, in fact just a few months from that threshold. Almost makes me wonder what I'm still doing messing with cars let alone a 25 year old's car.But yeah, fewer syllables for sure, but it's not a gas pedal...

Haven't gotten around to messing with the ECU and in any case I replaced my ECU years ago and the new one doesn't have a compatible EPROM.But, I replaced the O2 sensor last fall when I overhauled the entire intake & exhaust, as the old one was definitely bad. I assume the new one is still ok...

When cold it always starts, no problem, and idles more or less ok. But after it warms up it idles rough and doesn't always start up well unless I feather the gas pedal. Also poor gas mileage & gas/exhaust smell.Btw why do we still call it the gas pedal when it's actually the throttle pedal...

Hey all, what kinds of symptoms were you seeing on your DSM before you replaced the bad temp sensor? I've been getting rough idling when the engine warms up, hard starts, a gas/exhaust smell and poor gas mileage.

Thanks. Is NTK ok too? RockAuto has both and several others.And is this a common cause of the symptoms I described? Of course only an actual diagnosis would tell me if this is it, but just wondering.

Thanks, so, likely #5 (from your image, not my list), if it's a bad sensor, right? And, this explains what the various sensors & valves are, so many that it can be confusing.OEM part appears to be out of production, so any aftermarket ones you'd recommend?But I could have sworn that there...

Hi all, hope you've had a not too bad winter and are enjoying the early spring weather.It's almost warm enough around here to work on the car w/o freezing and I've continued to have idling, warm engine startup and excessive gas consumption issues plus an exhaust/gas smell that I suspect are...

Doesn't there appear to be an air gap between the black liner and blue teeth in the first 2 photos that indicates separation? There's definitely a liner as shown in the third photo, taken when the belt was new and unused. This appears to be separate from any dirt, grease, oil and rust there.

How did this end up here?

Yeah as I explained above the "before" photo was before I was done and I saw and fixes my mistake afterwards, as you can see in the "after" photo. I only posted it to show the initial condition of the belt and pulleys.I wonder if maybe I tensioned the BSB too much and it's causing the belt...

I guess that every situation is different and I've been lucky. Certainly lots of rust but nothing structural that I've found. I've yet to remove the rocker panels though as I've heard that those can get pretty badly rust damaged. Won't find out till next year when it's warm enough again to work...

But what about the apparent separation of the teeth liner from the teeth? Could that not lead to premature teeth wear or cracking or the lining coming completely off and getting caught in one of the pulleys or tensioners, leading to the TB skipping?

When I removed the entire exhaust pipe from my '92 Talon last summer it had a lot of rust on it but was still in remarkably good shape for its age and having had to deal with lots of snow, ice, slush and salt over the years. Took a couple of days to remove most of the rust, treat and paint it...

Still works? I'll check it out sometime.

You can find the parts catalog for 90-94 DSMs here:https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-plymouth-laser-and-eagle-talon-factory-parts-catalog-1990-1994.517692/I've used it to track down hundreds of parts by now and it's usually very accurate, at least for the original part #'s, and if they've...

Wow, that's nasty. Looks like a TB though. When I replaced both belts just over 2 years ago, the old TB looked to be in serviceable condition but the BSB was just about ready to go. Do they tend to go more quickly and often and if so is there some reason for that?

Yeah, that's what it looks like to me but I won't be able to tell for sure until I have a look up close. It's also why I suspected that it was a counterfeit. These tend to sell for more than $30 and usually come in a kit with the TB. TGTBT?

Yeah the third, before photo was from the initial setup. I later caught my mistake and corrected it so it faces properly as in the after, first two photos.Same block, tensioner was just wrong in the before photo, plus it was cleaner as this was several years prior (I actually did the job in...

A year and a half ago I replaced everything timing belt related, timing and balance shaft belts, pulleys, tensioners, seals, water pump, etc. I used an OEM TB and what I believed to be a genuine Gates Kevlar racing BSB. Everything ran fine afterward, but as a sanity check I took the cover off...

I'll do this all in due time, a bit too cold these days so it'll mostly have to wait till spring. I'm just trying to get a sense of the possible causes and if it's something to worry about. It sounds like it's coming from the trans area, though. But for all I know it's something to do with a CV...

Car runs fine, no weird smells, I can push it in neutral easily, no weird noises then. I did drain the oil that's only 2 years old recently and it looked somewhat tan/greyish and maybe slightly metallic. There was a small amount of shavings on the plug magnet, nothing major, like a small pea...

I rebuilt the manual transmission on my '92 Talon TSi AWD a few years ago and it's been working great ever since. But, almost from the start, whenever I release the clutch pedal and the car starts to move, I hear this faint metallic rubbing sound, like when a brake caliper dust shield slightly...

Thanks, just wanted to be pointed in the right direction, this topic has been covered endlessly in the past with lots of great content I'm sure and it's just now that I'm joining the discussion, due to circumstances.

Is the source code for either the original PROM or any of these 3rd party logger/tuner SW available, or at least some sort of guide to what kind of data is logged and available and the control codes to send the ECU to get that data (and, way more advanced and of course dangerous, actually...

Thanks, that clears up a lot. And yeah, I shipped them the original to get the core charge back. That's $50 I wish I hadn't bothered to get back, in retrospect, as it certainly does look to be in better shape than the one they sent me. They actually sent me 2, the first being too defective to...

Better yet, I took photos of the old and "new" reman ECU's before I had the latter installed, and just verified that the latter is what's installed right now by taking a peek under the dash.Old/original:"New" reman:Looks like the old one had an EPROM but the new one does not. Was I...

What would the neutral push test reveal? Mechanical drag (or slip) in the clutch, trans, t-case, prop shaft, rear diff, bearings or brakes?No idea how to check for closed loop or even know what that means. I have no scan tools or any of those "Link" things. Total newbie regarding anything to...

So adjusting the BISS manually without grounding the connectors won't give the ECM bad readings or something like that, and what's "wrong" with this method is that it's imprecise, not that it's inherently wrong?I did notice that I only had it out 1.5 turns and most people have it out 2 turns...

If anyone's willing to offer me $40-$50k in 2033 dollars for my '92 Talon TSi AWD manual that's mostly rust and issue-free (and should be completely so after one more round of restorations planned for next year) after several years of careful restoration then I'd gladly consider the offer. :thumb:

I've been a bit confused about how to properly adjust the BISS on my '92 Talon TSi. I realize that to do it properly you have to ground 2 connectors to disable the ECM's auto idle adjust and use a tachometer to adjust the BISS. What I'm confused about is whether adjusting the BISS without...

There are 4 rubber breather vents if that's what you mean and none are blocked, and even if one or two were then the others would take up the slack, I assume. I think it was just a poor job by me of properly RTVing the mating surfaces. I ended up draining the oil, removing the end case section...

Don't have any actually but who knows, it might just work for a few months.I think I just rushed the sealing in my haste to get the job done, but since Black is supposed to be better with oil, I'll probably use it when I redo this in the spring.I'll take a look next time I'm in HD.Btw...

Damn, my favorite DSM vendor by far since they have nearly everything at a decent price and there's so much useful information there. Plus it's a well-designed site. I'm pretty much done with needing new parts at this point after several years of restoration but I'll check it out just in case...

Thanks. Never heard of it. Is there a decent substitute that's more consumer-based? I'm only talking a few months and not that much driving, and it's been leaking very slightly for two years now with maybe a loss of a few teaspoons of oil every month or so. I guess the key attributes would be...

I rebuilt the manual trans on my '92 Talon TSi AWD a couple of years ago and although it's been working just fine as a trans it does have a very slight leak, likely between the mating surfaces of the 4 case sections because I probably didn't use the right RTV (Ultra Gray, probably should have...

FWIW a couple of years ago I replaced the entire front of my '92 Talon TSi's engine with OEM parts, tensioners, pulleys, WP, seals, etc., and both belts, each Kevlar.Ok the TB was a Mitsu but the BSB was Gates, but their Kevlar version which was as good or better than the OEM Kevlar. But...

Thanks all. I just reconnected everything the way it was before. Car runs ok but still stalls sometimes on idle, especially while turning in reverse.I wonder if that's intake or vacuum-related or perhaps due to a weak battery or faulty alt or power regulator?Or maybe this constrictor has...

I just reused the old splitters as they appears to be in good shape, but I might replace them eventually. I basically removed and overhauled anything intake or exhaust related, including the turbo and intercooler, so it was a pretty major project for me, and I punted on a few things towards the...

I just replaced nearly all of them. I didn't have enough new hose and had to reuse some of the old temporarily until I bought some new hose. Just got it today so I'll replace the rest soon. This is a photo I took before I removed all the intake-related stuff. It's all cleaned up now and I...

No, but I tried blowing through all 3 ports. I just put it back the way it was. I'm curious if other 1Gb turbo DSM owners have a similar setup, although of course many have replaced the original hoses by now or removed them if they deleted certain emissions parts. It's probably not a big deal...

Might as well answer my own questions. I wasn't able to find anything on that constricted port so I just reconnected it the way it was before. Idle is still a bit rough but that's likely due to a bad O2 sensor that I just replaced.Speaking of which, to answer the second question, with the O2...

I'm now reinstalling all the vacuum hoses I removed and noticed that the purge valve vacuum splitter has one port with a white stripe by it that appears to be constricted, or is perhaps a check valve. Blowing into it is much harder than with the other 2 ports.It's the port that connects to the...

I'm reconnecting all the vacuum hoses on my '92 Talon TSi and one of the vacuum splitters appears to have a constricted port on one of the ports. It's the red purge valve splitter, with one hose going to the purge control solenoid valve on top of the firewall on the far driver's side, one going...

Everything is OEM, studs, bolts, nuts, washers, gaskets, o-rings, etc.

Another useful dollar store item is those humidity absorber things that absorb 4-8 oz of water vapor in any enclosed space in case you have issues with water leaks, seeps or spills into the cabin or trunk.They look like this but cost around $1 or maybe a bit more: