Yeah its 900 bucks to tow it to ya 1 way 💀 cant do that sadly 😩

Desperate times call for desperate measures bro 🙃🥲

I'll be looking into the costs lol

For having a good hand id pay good $$$ to have one of you guys drive to me and show me whats what, not even kidding smh...i literally just paid that shop 600 bucks to put in a MAP sensor and scratch their heads...then give me the car back just as messed up as it arrived basically

I appreciate the offer, let me talk to a guy and see how much it would cost, which city is it?

Im in sioux falls sd...i really wish i could drop it off and even work on it (to learn more with how this specific car is set up) yeah its a 10hr drive to colorado 😭 and i have no trailer/transportation options unless a spend good money to have a transporter take it 😩In the morning its a start...

Before you leave, i have a question....do you think it would just be simpler to upgrade the throttle body to the billet 90mm one? Or am i better sticking with this stock one?

Nope, put it back exactly as i found it. Including with the gasket, which was in good shape, no tears as all.

I did not see a fuel pressure regular gauge

Okay all i am updating the link, i have set my wideband to UEGO, -30 global and curre tly looking at resetting maps....i noticed under the MAF comp tab, under options it says MAF type, its currently set to speed density....since i dont have the sensor plummed in should i still leave it on SD or...

Reason for block off was 1. Tuner suggested it as "most of the dsm guys do it when they have these idle issues" 2. There is a video on youtube of a guy who literally had a 3k idle and block off brought it down to 1ish so thats why i opted as well...@Justin DuBois oh, thats the screw that goes...

Alright, so when it comes to mechanical skills, i have worked on eclipses before but they have all been both stock and 7 bolts. This car purchased is far and a way completely different. Its a 6bolt swap, was an auto and manual swap, theres lots of things done to the car as far as...

TPS is done .63v, cable linkage adjusted and biss is 1 1/4 turn 👍🏻

Okay thank you for clarifying. Just wanted to make sure that was all good to go (which u just confirmed. Although....the harness was swapped by previous owner (went from an auto to manual harness)btw he says i need to find a part of a harness thats for the AC since it was swapped over? Can i...

Also this is the current firing order...but now that i think about it...since its 6 bolt swapped i thought it was supposed to be the like the right side......however couple weeks back i tried to set it up like the right side and lets just say, it wasnt very happy about it....can someone tell me...

@Justin DuBois @stev want to just tie everybody in as well, the previous owner got back to me about the wideband. Apparently its a uaego wideband, which was a different option on the settings, so i will have to change that as well@pauleyman @Dericsh

Thank you! :) i will be changing it to -30% when i get home. Hopefully it will bring my idle down a bit. Sunday i will be going to oriellys or where ever to try and make the boost leak tester and do that next. Although the tuners supposedly checked for boost leaks and it should have been good to go.

Thanks justin, you rock man. I will take this information and do my best to apply it....

Okay, so what i was thinking about doing with looking at the timing marks on the belt and what not is the mechanical side. So checking ignition timing? How do i do that?

No, i dont or at least vaguely. I take no offence, im new to this so im just rolling with the punches. My abilities are very limited, but i am learning alot from the forums and trying things that id otherwise not know. I can do things like replace parts and maintaining but building, setting...

Oooooh okay, yeah i figured but didnt question it. Cuz as soon as u click disable idle switch it greys out the other options automatically. Okay. I will do this when i get home in the morning. Still the idle sits at 2k-2500 and wont come down...even with us changing all these settings huhs

Yes i have never set it and never had a 6 bolt, first time with a 6 bolt so i havent a clue, i can try searching on hereAlso IAT is ordered.

Yeah when the car is warm its a pain to start. The hot start is one issue I consider the biggest issue as far as drive ability. Once it gets up to temp, its almost impossible to get it started again. IDK why, still troubleshooting that too.Oops as far as RELIABILITY** not drive abilityOh i...

no startHot start (car was already warm so it took a sec to get her going...)

The rev limit i didnt set it, its whatever came stock on DSMlink. Let me make other other adjustments real quick, then i have to go to work 👀As for wb switchpoint idk what value to enter, i dont have the manual. I was handed the car as is, and the DSMlink is on factory settings. So if theres a...

Well that's the original issue remember. I cant seem to get the idle down past 2k-2500. (I DID have it idling at 1k, but that's when i didn't know the alternator wasn't plugged in and it was running off the batt. As soon as i plugged the alternator cable back in it was back to 2k)It was...

right im aware, but when u get a car thats already heavily modified sorting it out by yourself is tedious. plus i havent ever worked on a car so extensively modified....

This is the most current log i have, this is with @Justin DuBois info as well..

Any recommendations for the IAT sensor?This is the current mod list, 650cc injectors The maf translator is no longer being used. ignore that

I can send the newest log i have now if you want? And what would remote tuning look like?LOL more like tuners who don't know much about mechanical. They couldn't even figure out that the radiator fan just had an unplugged connector, then the fans worked. I literally traced the radiator fan...

Yeah trust me I left feeling pretty taken advantage of, but at the end of the day this is where I'm at and I'm trying my best to just get the car to a point where I can just take it to them, they can dyno it or whatever and be done.Thats why I'm very heavily leaning on you guys for support...

It wasnt**** 100% on SD i still need to plumb in whatever sensor goes into pipingHere's the invoice, they do use these forums as well from time to time so i want to keep it pretty neutral. They are also the only tuners in town who can tune these cars so im trying to stay on their good side lol.

Ohhh yes, that part. Thats what i meant when i said earlier it was 100% on SD that part needs to be plummed in....ive just been trying to tackle this idle issue first and try to get it operalble to a degree. Actually the car is warming up now and A/F ratio is holding steady at 10

So yes, the Front O2 data shows .08v and my AEM A/F rstio gauge shows roughly 12 ish

Will do that now

The fans have a switch on the dashboard to toggle the fans off and on. Which could* be the reason for the activate fans. Open loop mode, i have no idea, i can turn it off....and for the other questions it has a wideband, only has one O2 which is front, it is set to front. The Omni 4 bar is set...

no change in idle

Okay, should i try to start it then?Also, while im looking and comparing should i change this to Baro too? Or keep on MDP?And the MAF type says speed density, but it doesnt have the plummed in sensor (unless thats what the tuner did (see earlier in thread) otherwise i dont think its on...

So for that you said the adjustment on it is wrong...are you referring to it being at .63v? Or is there another way to adjust it since its in the TPS?So for simulating wideband what should i put the switch point to? And the startup options?How do i edit coasting fuel?

i have adjusted the throttle cable now as well according to the postthis is right now as it warms up. i gave two small revs just to show activity (not sure if that helps or not). i noticed that the TPS shifted from .63 to .65 running, i tried to pull the throttle cable back to not have slack...

I have to look into the idle switch portion, i know this thread got really long but i did test the ISC earlier, i got 40v across all pins.

I dont think the tuner was able to get to doing much of the tuning stuff due to the idle issue? They said they were trying to tell the car to idle lower but it wouldnt go, or something like that...they told me that i "need to bring the idle down then i can bring it back for tuning"So many...

Yep, thats what i used to gather the list, however that was just a log with the car off, i can do another with the car running later (probably what you guys wanted) but its still a little too early to have that thing running lol

Here we go. This log is just with the car off and all the stuff that needs to be there (hopefully)

Hopefully this works lol.Side note, I got the TPS to .63v and when I close press the gas pedal in all the way it goes to exactly 5.00v which is at 100% throttle according to the capture.Doesn't appear to be allowing me to post the file here unless I missed a step. I just click add photo, go...

I will be adjusting it once i get home from work.

Okay, i'll see what i can come up will

Oh, so when I click on add photo or what have you I drop the log file that's saved from my desktop and post it then. I didn't know we could do that.The light grey part connected to the coupler. The quick release i know i can buy, the grey part idk where id find something to work like that lol...

I did upload a log if u scroll up its there, I will repost it here though but yeah I'm VERY new with ECMLink so its taking some time to figure it out. That's where I'm at so far.I was instructed by one of the other guys to recheck TPS and ISC and a couple other things since I found that the...

Alright, well it will have to wait till i can gather some funds up for some tools. I have quite the christmas list this year lol. Otherwise i can take it back to the tuner and have them recheck. They also did a boost leak test and said everything was fine on that end prior to me picking the car...