where can i get a new BISS screw, part # would prob help i would rather go to auto zone but if i have to get it from a dealer then tell me

i got real bad numers on compression, good in #1 then they drop off ALOT. I did my own t-belt andd now that i think of it, it might be off cause i dont have the best performance and it had a rebuild at one point i just thaought it wasnt done properly

do you have any fuel mods nos is a fine way to add air to the engine but with air you need fuel and some form of monitoring your a/f ratio. 50 shot should be ok but the higher you go and the more you use it the better chance of running lean which is what blows engines. Also retard your ignition...

the sound is not from the controller and prob from you IC piping. The tester would be great but if you have a friend listen in the engine bay you might be able to find it that way too if its that loud. Just adjhust the piping and tighten the clamps if you find it.

Check out this mysterious pinched vacuum tube from the mbc. Make sure you understand how a mbc works and then you should be able to loook at it to make sure it ok.

if they sell a kit with everything buy the kit. You will need the unit along with two 6-an to 6-an adapters with O-rings and a end cap with O-ring. Also you will need an adapter to the fuel rail that goes to a 6-an then you will need a 6- an to 45 degree angle that has a hose connector on it. as...

no ignition timing wont fix you crank/cam timing. basically no matter when the plug fires if the valve isnt in the right place with the piston it isnt going to run right. You really want to get that timing exactly right. It might run a tooth off but it wont be good.

What you need to remember is if you arced the terminals when you jumped the car or charged battery. Check you fuse box in your engine bay, theres a good chance you could have blown a fuse and it wont turnover but you have power. If your unsure about the strength of your battery put it in another...

you can also check the power transistor with a voltmeter and a book to reference with. I had that problem once but it was because i didnt re-connect my power transistor all the way and it backed out a week later. check your sensor connections and that they infact do work.

this sounds like my prob, got a 1g head and 2g botom. this thing is really pissin me off.

its a obx cheap ass fpr. it is supposed to be adjustable both ways but it doesnt go below 65 it goes up to like 100 or higher but obviously i didnt want it that high so i lowered it. i have checked out the aeromotive at jegs i might pick it up as long as there is nothing else that could be doing...

after installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator i got some issues. it was a cheap unit and i cant adjust pressure below 65 or so. If i take off the vacuum it doesnt change the reading. i have a lot of speculation on whether it works because it seemed used when i got it. Is there anything...

im still tryin to get mine to work. I have the obx and the fuel rail adapter doesnt fit. My gauge doesnt seem to work and i dont think it works right at all but i dont have it hooked up quite right yet without a new fitting. The link to the autoalchemy site is good get there fitting it seems...

hey thanks a lot.

ok thanks a lot for the quick "no b.s." replys

thanks a lot i ordered it 5 min after i read your post

its a cheapy obx racing. The guage came on it.

I got a mix of parts and dont remember what my tps/throttle body is. What is the difference between 1g and 2g tps sensors. I wanna get a used tps but dont know which i got. Im pretty sure its a four prong so is that all i need to know cause a guy on ebay has 1g 3-4 prong tps's?

My fuel pressure gauge reads weird. I cant get it to adjust to 43 it goes to about 30 then if i tighten down the screw it goes to 0 and i can feel it surge with the engine idle. The pressure regulator will jerk with the surging pressure. Any ideas? is this cheap fpr just broke or what.?

Bought a cheap fpr and the adapter to the fuela rail is leaking out the fitting. I need to find an adapter to fit to our fuel rails (2g gsx) that just has a metal fitting piece to conect to the hose going to my fpr. Any ideas.? I might try some jb weld on the piece but it didnt fit well either...

i need a new ecu. i have a 95 gsx 5sp. Does the ecu have to be from an awd car. I would think it did but im having trouble findin one and hope a gst ecu will work.

be sure to get a metric o2 socket cause advanced auto parts only had a 13/16 that only stripped mine so i ripped the pig tail off and threw on a metric deep socket. Then just install the new one with the 13/16 being careful not to strip it yet get it tight.

i have one of those metal things that spin the air but its called a turbo;)

thanks a lot, it would be fine to hook up not directly too? pretty easy to install that way?

is this thing junk or whathttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33555&item=2469693997

thats what i was expecting, adress the real problem first, the fuel pressure. what does anyone think of the cheap apc afpr. anyone have it

been running rich forever, becuase of the fuel pump and many mods., like 1g head and other stuff. should i get an afpr to address the fuel problem or get an safc. if i get an safc it would be non digital and very limited, or this afpr...

i think it was 180-120-100-145. theres no blown gasket there, just the product of a bad rebuild from a certain shop in teledo ohio

can bad compression cause idle surge? thats it.

i know they dont come cheap but what about the least expensive? i cant find the website or forum inwhich someone spoke of good coil prices?

where can i get some cheap new coils???

thanks for the replys guys you know where i could get some coils for cheap. Online of coarse.

95 gsx, changed plugs wires and checked power transistor. Ive also checked the secondary resistance of the coils but i can figure out the primary part of the coil check. The car has weak firing. It is not worse under boost or i would automatically think coils. It just seems weak in general...

no the original has like 5 or 6 rpm knobs that you can adjust the fuel with. Pretty crude not really for fine tuning but it would work in my case, that is if it works on are cars i havent really ever hear.

Was wondering if anybody was using the original apexi safc, there cheap and i just want to get my o2 voltage down a bit not fine tune.

i have a 1 gen intake and head, i cant remember if my throttle body is 1 gen cause i bought it like this but i think its likely that if the 1 gen flows better that i have that one. I am lookin to get a new isc and i dont know which one, whats the difference?

what i said, basically it misfires across the band. It is not boost or rpm dependant it will misfire at anytime. If i reset the ecu, unplug the battery, it will go away for about 30 hw miles then it hits again. If i reset it after every use it wont happen but i imagine there is still something...

hey thanks for the help. i found a loose connector on a sensor that connects to the intake manifold. Im not sure what it is but since i have a 1 gen manifold and head i just have it bolted to the manifold and it was unclipped. It started right after.

well i checked it today and its not bad but just for future readers it was a 1g CAS it was slotted and had 4 wires out. The 2g only has three. I measured them and got a fluctuating voltage from a low of about .4 to a high of about 4V i think this is right and it is good so now i still dont know...

i spliced mine with a compression fitting and some line

tested the CAS it works or atleast i think so cause it cycles through from a low voltage to high when turning it over. I still dont have any spark. I need some help. what about the crankshaft position sensor? or the ecu??

bought my 2g with a 1g head swap. im not sure and was wondering which CAS sensor do i get cause i think mine is bad. I dont know if the 1995 gsx sensor is different from the 1g sensor or if it fits on a 1g head. I was just wanting some help on which year to order a sensor from. Any info on...

by the way the car has a cas cause its got a 1g head on it. any help?

i posted about car stranded and fp dead but its not. so i guess its ignition, i put a volt meter on the plug wire aand grounded it to the car and it didnt read any real voltage. how can i test the ignition system? i was getting rich/lean reading before this happenedand the car was running weird...

lol thats how mine is now after the shop put a 255 in before i bought it

thanks its back down a dead end street so im not too worried about the position but i definitley need to get it running i will test to see if its getting power

2g awd. i wanna do the fp myself. i have a haynes book but if anybody has any pointers. Is it very difficult, it doesnt seems so but that always causes trouble. i know i need a new seal but other than that?

i used it as a permenant fix and dont plan on buying a new vc

the timing being off doesnt cause lack of spark it just comes at a different time. i dont know much about 1g or 1.8 but on my gsx i had the timing off after a t-belt change and it still started just ran shitty.