just wanting to update everyone. have not taken the car apart yet to see if it is the clutch, or a bad rear main seal. but have replaced the slave cylinder because the stock on eventually went out. properly adjusted it and car still acted like it was slipping. the slipping did get worse. have...
Unfortunately I have not had a chance to look at the car since getting it towed home but the next chance I get I’ll try this and follow up with everyone on what’s up.
I have not attempted to bleed the slave since purchasing the vehicle. It’s possible in its life time that someone else may have attempted it. I unfortunately have not had the chance to look at the car since I got it towed home a few weeks ago.(upon the slave giving out the clutch would not...
I was referring to when giving it WOT, whenever the clutch would slip, I would smell burnt fluid. My guess is that it possibly may be oil that everyone else is referring too.
Thanks for the help guys. I guess it’s time to break it open and find out then. Not sure when that will be but I’ll definitely post a follow up comment.
Hey all, I’ve tried researching my issues but it either brings more things into question and is just all around confusing so this is for clarification and some help trouble shooting.Afew months ago I noticed my clutch was slipping in the higher gears when I’d try to accelerate.(normal driving...
Thanks for the help folks.! Long story short, I had to change my battery because the old one died and wouldn’t hold charge. While replacing the battery, I was also doing an oil change. While I was under their I figured “why not just unplug the BCS and plug it back in.? Couldn’t hurt anything I...
Okay guys, I’ve exhausted all my research and I’m completely confused as hell now on my issue, where to really start, troubleshoot and how to actually narrow it down to what it is.A few weeks ago I did a pull in my car (because turbo of course.!) and my check engine light came on. Went and got...
its been a while since i was on here. BUT GOOD NEWS PEEPS.! THE SPYDER LIVES.! I finished putting the car together and she finally runs! Theres a slight power steering leak somewhere along the passenger side that has developed since last run. BUT NO ISSUES! *knocks on wood*. I've run about 300mi...
Glad to hear that you got it sorted out! I completely forgot about the EGR being a possibility.:ohdamn:.Probably because the last time i had an issue with mine was in the single digits during winter and the my car kept trying to stall out. I forgot it could work the other way around too. glad...
in that case, check your vacuum lines, check the gaskets around the throttle body and/or intake. then your idle air control. idle speed sensor. MAP sensor. i'm no gurus like most of the people on here but i'm almost certain that your problem lays within one of those things.
i recommend troubleshooting before replacing any of the ignition components. It could any number of things. could be idle air control, MAP sensor, possibly the ignition but the engine should run low and and try to stall constantly, not run high. Might also be a vacuum leak or issue somewhere. is...
i'll defiantly give it a shot my man! that wont be until tomorrow or sometime this week sadly so hopefully someone else can chime in with some other added advise as well.
Hey guys and gals. I'm having an issue getting my passenger motor mount and plate in my GST spyder (manual transmission.) when I was waiting on my head at the shop to get pressure checked, I decided to undertake a bushing swap job since i had easy access to the rear and passenger bushings and...
sorry bud, i guess my response to your last post didnt go through (spotty cell service). i'm just going to rebuild the car as stock and then figure out an exact plan of what i want to do with it and then i'll figure out the parts exactly.(as you stated, i pretty much made a list without any real...
sorry bud! thank you for asking me that, i actually posted the wrong picture. THESE are the ones i bought. I got them off of extremepsi. The other set, was one i was considering getting but chose these instead. i dont remember where i was going to get the other type. just do a search on google...
Thanks for the help man! i really do appreciate it.! I came to the conclusion that it will be best to just put the new head gasket on, replace the thermostat and water pump in addition to the idler/tensioner pulleys + new belts and alternator. Just going to shop around for a used engine and...
just a little update, since i have the head and intake off i went ahead and bought a set of prothane motor mount bushings. already changed the front and rear bushings. was waiting on a new transmission plate/adapter for the passenger mount because i was an idiot and snapped two of the studs for...
Thanks bud. i really do appreciate it.! and around the 300hp-350hp range i guess i should say. that's not necessarily to the wheels, either. i will figure out the suspension later because i'm in general happy and comfortable with the way the car handles as is. (its more/less decent stock...
hey guys! long story short, in the middle of doing a head gasket, and while the head and intake were out and had to remove driver side motor mount i figured i'd do a prothane motor mount bushing job as well. already changed the front and rear bushings, my question is, does it matter the...
thanks for the advice bud. as i stated before, i dont really need a HUGE amount more HP or anything. i'm not looking for anything more than maybe a 300hp setup. it being a fwd, it'd be pointless to have more than that. I just want to make daily driving the mountains/hills and turns a little bit...
awesome man! and i'm probably gonna go ahead and do a bigger turbo when the time comes for it. i just want to be sure if i'm able to upgrade the valvetrain now or if i should just do that on a new build and just get my car together the way as is.(Stock).
Okay guys, just an update but also afew more questions, since I’m going to stick with the OEM cams, and probably won’t see a new turbo or DSMlink for afew more years, should I still upgrade the valvetrain (BC valves, single springs, retainers, guides, seals and such with a set of topline zero...
Yeah, it was the head gasket that was bad. There was a tear in it when I pulled the head as well as this discoloration (I assume from the exhaust or being burnt in general.) between the two walls as well as one of the coolant jacket ports.(also knew it was a HG because it pushed air to the...
Thanks for the input peeps. I honestly had no idea that the cams would make that much of a difference, but that’s what I’m here for, Is to learn and get advice. I don’t really have anyone around me that know anything about imports.(V8’s, yes, plenty, but no one knows anything about 4 bangers...
Hey folks.! Bought my 97’ GS-T spyder afew months ago. Was having an issue with 3/4 or WOT with the car having no “get up” even though it had full boost. (Car is completely stock.) so thought it might have been the BPV, so I changed the stock out for a turboxs one. Still had an issue with no...
Well, so far I have the head off because I need to do a head gasket and just wanted to replace the timing belt for piece of mind. Already had the head checked out at a machine shop and pressure tested and came back fine. Now considering since I have the engine tore down this far if I should just...
Understandable my dude.! I really don’t really know what else to tell you or where to guide you, sadly. :/. But I do wish you luck in figuring it out.! Just cross your t’s and dot your I’s and double check everything it you could run across it without thinking.
As far as the white smoke goes, it could possibly be coolant but there’s no real way of telling other than keeping an eye on the fluid level and seeing how long between filling it up.
I will say I haven’t read all the reply’s at this point in time.(so please disregard if already mentioned or already checked out.) but could it possibly be one of the knock sensors.? The issue you’re having sounds similar to a friend of mine who’s knock sensors were about shot. (He had to do a...
Don’t forget that the T28 probably wouldn’t be a bad option either. From what I’ve read, with a decent tune, they can flow just as much as a big 16g, but don’t quote me on that exactly. I’m only considering one because it’s mainly a direct bolt on and the price is decent.