So tuning had been going well. The po po is extremely dense here so it's hard to get a good pull in. But it's going. Defiantly the fasted vehicle I have ever been in with the exception of my r1. Scares the hell out of me sometimes lol.
I did nothing today. And it feels amazing to have nothing to do.
I'm putting a stereo in soon. Do you know how good it feels to be installing a stereo after 6 years?
Good. It feels really good.
So, I have been working through kinks. During first start, idle was super high. Like 3k cold start. Warm closer to 2k. Even with the biss fully closed. So threw on the boost leak tester and boom, throttle body. Changed the seals out and test again. Throttle body seals leak again.
Throw a new...
Well it runs. Has a really high idle I have to deal with. Biss screw doesn't bring it down much so I more than likely have a stuck tb, too tight a cable, or a boost leak after the tb. I'll figure that out tomorrow.
Body is mostly back together. I need to install hood pins and the bumper. Other...
Mahle isnt a bad company at all. BUT, I have zero experience nor do I know anyone that has used their head gaskets. I didn't even know they made head gaskets for our cars.
So I reached out to STM and they quickly got me a gasket and biss screw oring out the door. It will be here this afternoon. Tomorrow I am installing those and wrapping up some little things. Then putting body panels back on.
Well the car lives. All and all minimal issues.
I forgot to tighten the valve cover so oil went everywhere. My exhaust gasket between the head and the manifold is leaking. And I need a biss screw oring.
Other than that. It runs. Today is a good day.
They wouldn't fire with a 9 volt.
Buddy of mine came in clutch and he had a set of DC 1500s ge just pulled off his car 2 month ago. Gunna throw those in and see what happens.
Alright. So while waiting for the noid lights to come in, I tested for continuity through the circuit just to make sure everything was connected where it should. I also verified that I saw 12v at each wire at the injector like I should. Check. And there tested resistance accross the injectors...
It's during the week so I never really feel up to working on the car during the weekdays. But, I have tested for spark and I do infact have spark.
So really I'm down to seeing with the noid light if my injectors are getting power and if so the issue is the injectors.
I'm going to rent a noid light first before I start swapping parts. If I'm not getting spark too then i know for sure it's the cas or cps.
If I have spark then I have a feeling the injectors may be clogged in which case I'm going to test with the noid lights and see if im getting signal to the...
Well excitement is back.
Long story short, the car was experancing a voltage dip. It was explained to me that somewhere along the line, my car was pulling enough amps to hit the limit of what my battery could provide dipping the voltage. The car reacted as such. This only happened at key on. I...
Well. I guess it's fixed. Idk what it was. New battery and had unplugged everything and plugged it back it. If it comes back yall will be the first to know. Thanks dudes!
**electrical problem has entered the chat**I have been having an electrical issue for a few months now. That's why I was so excited about gave power and no fire. With excitement didn't last long as the issue reappeared the next day. Here is a link to the thread where I am working that out with...
***chemical engineer has entered the chat*** lol lol lolThank you for that. Always curious and you hit it out of the ballparkAs for the alternator, I have replaced I this last winter but keep in mind, the issue I am having has gone on prior to the replacement of the alternator.I have...
Although there isn't alot out there for our cars right now (mid 2021) in the field of 3D printing, there is one company that is beginning to make a few parts here and there for our cars. DSM3DCreations is making alot of the little parts out there 1g, 2g, and galant VR4's that are becoming ether...
Does this also increase with years of cycling the same battery between empty and charged?
Because I'm guilty of liking to work on this car more than driving it and I definatly have had more "first starts" then the average person hahaha
This is impressive in its own right. I have had mine for almost 7 years now. Love every second of it and will never sell. Found it in a junkyard for 200 bucks and had no idea what I was buying but wanted something to tinker on. Back then, I didn't even know how to change spark plugs.
But in...
Thank you for this. Really helped with some of the understanding of "why" you do certain things. A good friend of mine is an electrican and gave me a very brief synopsis on how to use a multimeter.Sidenote: I hope you do this for a living because if you don't then you should lol.
For reference I initially discovered the voltage drop at the main power B+ 60amp fuse. I have since picked it up there, at the interor fuse box, and at the battery itself.
#BeingBackForums
So it does effect the entire car. In my initial realization of a problem, I had zero understanding of how electricity works. This has been a big learning curve for me. With that, when this first happened as well as the discovery of it still happening in recent weeks, I noticed...
So I've damn near reconnected everything and I now can't get the voltage to drop at all.
Sevearly confused.
I'm not going to argue about the problem just "going away" but a problem like this doesn't just disappear...
Never mind. I have isolated the circuit. With this attached list and everything disconnected fuse wise I no longer get a voltage drop at key on. I'm now going to connect one at a time alone untill I get the drop to isolate which circuit it is
Okay. "Interior relay box dedicated fuse number 13" for the mirror control. Anyone know where that's at?
It isn't the engine bay fuse box as it only has up to 12 fuses.
It isn't the interor multipurpose fuse box because MPF 13 goes to ABS, A/C switch, auto compressor, blower motor, and the...
I just want to clarify one thing with you. As I meantioned yesterday, I had discovered the voltage drop when I connected the 3mm square wire from fusable link number 6 that supplies power to the ignition switch and fuse number 17 to the sunroof. You had said it supplies only these.
So I should...
A few recommendations I got on Facebook that I'm going to try today is leaving the ignition circuit connected and disconnecting the mpi relay to see if the voltage drop goes away. Another recommendation was to disconnect the starter as the starter should be the only thing able to draw that much...
Wow this is amazing. I didnt even know this was possible.
Thank you for the information. This is becoming a little overwhelming to find and I am at the point of desperation but I will continue to search while I wait for a compass to come in the mail. Thanks and I will keep this thread updated...
Yeah the 60amp main power fuse came into question because changing it allows me to recreate the problem. I do not know why.
The fusable link number 6 in the engine bay fuse box for the ignition switch is now in question. It has an 8 gauge white wire that goes from it to the driver side fender...
I'm going through connecting one thing at a type looking for any changes and I found something.
As soon as I connect the the plug supplying power from fusable link number 6 and turn the key to ignition on, I see a massive voltage drop. Key off im measuring 12.6v and key on im measuring 8.2v...
I actually did this yesterday. In these 2 weeks I have fixed a few broken wires under the bottom plastic if the fuse box. It didn't fix the issue but it was still good to find.
Now, I'm going to be alot more specific now as I just discovered this myself. This whole time I have been saying the 60amp fuse is blowing. But it doesn't blow necessarily. Hear me out.
I turn the key, everything powers up, and then almost powers down. The dash lights start to pulse dimly like...