Are you talking about this light?

Ill make sure to check that tonight, i know my friend switched out 3 alternators from autozone before he got one that was running right, and slap the links for the solenoids, theyre not loading up, website does but when you click for like fuel pressure it says error

I have a 97 gsx, so today i jumped my car, started to the cables off, let it run for about 30 minutes, i shut it off, and dead battery, already replaced the alternator twice within a month from auto zone, battery health was tested good since it hold’s charge, also got 5 pending codes P0141-bank...

Still didnt figure it out yet, one guy said maybe a bad iav/acv, maybe a dirty throttle body, gonna try checking those today

Hey guys, so i think i have a bad maf sensor, probed the connector and it has 12v, but cars idle is like shitty kinda, sounds cammed, car shuts off when i push the clutch in betweeen shifts, also got the codes P1500 P0100 Just wondering if i should pull the trigger on a new maf sensor

Hmm weird haven’t heard of anything like that, do you know what the village should be for the maf? I think that’s why my car keeps dying at idle

Im not sure what its called but it looks like something for the fuel rail

Figured out my problem, some clip is broken and was loose, ziptied it down, now it runs, but still stalls whenever i hold the clutch in, think i might have a bad maf, since i got this code P0100 and p1500

Yeah, i figured that out too, but now the car completely died on me while driving on the highway, now just keeps on cranking but no fire, even with cables hooked up

Im sure i can find one, it did have a bad alternator, i replaced it with one i got from autozone, it was remanufactured so idk if its bad also, but even with cables on the car it wont turn on, just keeps cranking

It was running fine, i just noticed in between shifts if i held the clutch in it would die, then as i was driving it shut off Completely and i had to pull over, started up again about an hour later, then shut off again about 2 miles later

If i unplug the maf and it starts up does that mean its a bad maf?

Its slow cranking because the battery drained down from me trying to start it so muchIdle was steady, randomly happened out of no where

Uhh im not sure if i do, the battery tested good at autozone, fully charged, even with jumper cables it wouldnt turn on, just keeps cranking

Checked all piping/vacuum lines everything's connected didn't see cracks, gonna eventually invest into one of those once i get my racecar partsCar seemed to idle normal, around 7-900 rpm, and gonna see where the connectors are for the thermostat, and checked wiring looked normal

Yeah, basically, and no idea how to data log, new to dsm in general, feel like a bad wiring somewhere

Also, forgot to add, i noticed it dies if i put it in neutral between shifts as well if i hold it for rpms to drop

By crank i mean it keeps cranking like it wants to start, by not turn over i mean actually turn on and running

Hey guys, so i got my 97 gsx recently, it had an alternator problem, got it tested and failed so i threw a new one on, car drove fine for about 12 miles,(did a 3rd gear pull to 6k rpm) and kinda just shut off on me and wouldnt turn back over, i checked the hoses/loose cables i couldnt find...

Hey, so my friends hooking me up with “hx35 turbo, fp manifold, bep housing, wastegate and o2 housing with dump tube and fic 1200cc injectors, fp comp cam” for a pretty good deal, i do need to find dsm/ecmlink as well, currently has some old apex tuner thing, but hopefully i can find one for a...

I got a buddy thats selling me “thats turbo, manifold, bep housing, wastegate and o2 housing with dump tube” for $800, i think its a good deal, kinda trying to throw everything at once on it, gonna order a vrsf intercooler if theres a good black friday deal ill hold off, bigger injectors and...

Battery tested good, alternators shot, hopefully its not a pain to put back on lol

I dont yet, i want to get the manifold/turbo first because the one thats on there now has a cracked bolt, heads broken off, threads are in the turbo, so i just wanted to get rid of the leak first, guy threw in 850cc injectors, but i want like 1200cc ones or whatever ones can handle 4-500whp...

Also forgot to mention, since the hx35 is integrated wastegate whatd you do? Do you still run an external one?

How hard is it to switch out the housing? Also so you prefer the fp manifold ported? Or is there a specific hp to desire to actually need it?

are you talking about this one? Just want to make sure i get the right things before i try putting it together, is there a turbo manifold you could recommend thats t3 to Fit the hx35?how much psi/whp are you pushing with the intercooler?

Im trying to go as cheap as possible, but i wouldnt mind spending 4-500$ for the manifold, idk of thats alot or a little for these

I wonder how much hp it could hold, im looking to get around the 4-500whp range

Is cxracing good for the manifolds? I know theyre not terrible, but couldnt find reviews on them https://www.cxracing.com/products-by-car/products-by-car-mitsubishi/products-by-car-mitsubishi-eclipse-95-99/MF-4G63-T3T4-WTalso is vrsf intercooler kit good? I know they’re reputable on bmws

I was told a fp manifold wouldnt clear, i currently have tubular manifold right now but was told its a t25 and holset is t3, is cxracing a good brand for manifolds? Or doesnt hold much power? Ill look into the one you recommended

Hey guys, im completely new to these platforms, coming from n54’s and never ending misfireslast night i got a 97 gsx, one of the things i was told is the bold head broke off on the manifold, and stuck on the turbo, i found a local hx35 and was wondering what manifold would it fit, i was told...

I’m having the same issue with my 97 gsx i picked up when it starts, it does a pull and completely shuts off, no dash lights and won’t turn over again, dash lights are really dim, i think the batteries dead, and alternator shot, gotta look into it