Well gentlemen, you fixed it! I appreciate your help with the matter, she is running great now!

Too easy, thank you yet again.

Vegas, thank you very much for the response. I'm going to dig up the wiring diagram and see if I can figure out relays haha. I'm busy this weekend but I will touch base soon to report any findings. Again thank you for that information, I would not have thought to do a relay otherwise.

When I start the car and first start driving everything seems to be working as it should. At some point during driving (it has happened idling before) my AFR meter drops to 7.4 and just keeps flashing. If I stop, shut the car off then start it up again it starts working fine quickly. The car...

You can try giving Moore Automotive in Gainesville a call. I got my 1g tuned there. They do a lot of work with Evos and work with DSMlink, although they prefer AEM.

So someone can jump in as I am not an expert, but I believe it is to prevent future rust/corrosion issues as well as be more efficient over the rubber/flex piece pressure wise so it has a firmer more consistent brake.

We're On Boost, here is my setup as well, which is probably the exact same as DSMPTs. Mech Addict, I threw in a couple shots of the SC as well for your reference.

I was only looking at it through the top of the engine bay, I could see the fork and the rod at low light and that was about it. That and a long day of working on it I was pretty checked out for the day. As soon as I got underneath it was obvious. Great excuse to upgrade the lines.We’re On...

Yes, it is the full line that goes from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I will see if I can get you a photo tomorrow. It just goes into the side of the master cylinder exactly where the old line is, facing toward the passenger side of the car.

Hey guys, quick update. I hopped under the car to look at the SC and it looks like the previous owner used random bolts that were way too short. The SC was no longer attached to anything and was just laying there with the rod just jammed at an angle into the clutch fork. I spent the day...

Thank you for the response! It would be nice for one fix to rule them all. So let me try to explain in better detail of what is happening now. Whats happening now isnt what was going on when it initially broke.So after I move the pivot fork back into its correct position, the clutch pedal...

When it is stuck its far to the left (passenger side from my angle). and when resting normal Its a little past the halfway mark in favor of the right side (drivers side). It is not hitting the bell housing. I'm also currently looking into the clutch needing readjusted, specifically the release...

Thank you for the responses!Mech Addict, I'll have to do that and see if I can see anything getting caught in there, hopefully its nothing serious requiring me to take the tranny off again.That's a good point We're on Boost, I shouldn't have over looked the slave cylinder, not sure why I...

Update:Mech Addict, The weld failed and took some of the arm with it. I think due to the problem I am listing below.I purchased a new used assembly, welded it up, and installed it. I noticed that when I went to test the clutch, it felt like I was hitting a wall. I noticed the fork was...

Thanks again for the response pauleyman. When you say you hated the clutch and removed it anyway, what do you mean, a switch to auto? I got this car to learn so I’ve been considering tackling the project of creating my own assembly of some Wilwood pedals, might get interesting unless I can find...

Thanks for the response pauleyman. So maybe I am just looking at it wrong, but it was working fine for months after I installed the new clutch. It felt like it could use a new master cylinder, or bleed, but it shifted fine and smooth, that is until the arm snapped. There does not appear to be...

I got the piece welded in yesterday and spent almost two hours reinstalling the assembly only to test it and have the piece fail. I had to step away from the car so I can only assume the weld failed. Does anyone know of anyone installing aftermarket brake and clutch setup? I see reasonably...

Attached is where I was planning on welding, however my concern is if there needs to be more material exposed or if that would be sufficient. This may be a question for a welder but all input is appreciated.

My mistake pauleyman, just from looking at the broken end it looks like two different pieces of metal, I quickly assumed it was also threaded into the shaft in between the flat parts.

Thanks for all the info! So, I will grind off the nut/current weld and take a picture of what I am talking about just to confirm we are on the same page, and I will definitely keep everyone posted throughout the process if I go the welding route. My concern is that there is a broken bolt in...

In response to both, yes I thought the point of welding the end was to prevent rounding out the flat parts causing the shaft to just spin, so I guess the bolt isn't fully needed after the weld? My thoughts was to grind off the current weld/bolt and reweld the end of the assembly itself with it...

Mech Addict, that is very considerate of you, I might have to take you up on that offer. I am curious, as I am a very amateur welder, whether it being broken like that presents an opportunity for a stronger weld. Also, I am curious if anyone has done an aftermarket clutch install, if there is...

So my clutch pedal just went straight to the floor the other day, and I just got finished pulling the assembly out. It looks like someone previously welded the assembly, which was my original plan, however the bolt actually snapped which is causing the predicament I am in. Looking at the...

So the only thing I actually changed will be the clutch to an ACT 2600 (? The one rated for 500 ft lbs). I am trying hard to think if it had this resistance before the clutch change. No launches, no hard driving as I just got it back from the tuner and the issue existed before it was tuned. The...

Thank you all for the responses. So I took it out and tried with the clutch held in and just rolling normally, and it only has the resistance while in gear. ( I still have the vibration at high speeds that increases when I hit the brakes just not consistently and I'll tackle that next). What...

I'm not sure if I should be posting here or in the Drivetrain forums, but I have been experience very high resistance at low speeds, including in reverse. I have yet to find any other posts about this and was wondering if anyone could lead me in the right direction. I notice it at lower speeds...

So I'm not quite sure yet where I am going to get them from, I'll be checking my local hardware stores and comb through the internet if I need to. I found the crossmember bolt sizes on this page here if that is what you are looking for...

Thank you all for the replies. I will locate some bolts and get the crossmember supports installed asap. I appreciate the help.

Ok awesome, thank you both for the response. If anyone disagrees with adding back in or if this is something worth investing into an upgrade please let me know.

Perfect thank you. Luckily I just picked a spare set up recently. Are they needed, I'm a little baffled as to why they are completely missing from when I purchased the car.

So it looks like I am missing one if not two pieces that come off of the front crossmember, I am assuming that these are needed, or am I wrong. And are there supposed to be two? If you have a pic of the proper setup it would be much appreciated. Thank you!

These wires are coming from the C-66 piece of the harness according to https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-1990-engine-control-wiring-harness.412841/ and from C-61 according to my manual. I cannot seem to find any other wires in the loom that aren't being plugged directly into the 24-pin...

I have a random group of wires that are just floating around that seem to be causing me a lot of issues. I'll post pictures below. There are no missing pins in the ECU and they go in with the rest of the ECU wire bundle. These groups of wires seem to be wrapped with a brown wrap/guard before...

Alright so another update because I am completely lost again. I went to change my timing belt and found out it was off at least one tooth, so that has been fixed. It dropped my Airflowperrev down into the mid to upper 20s, made my ISC average drop at temperature though. I would like to avoid...

Ok, so I installed the new FIAV gasket and it seemed to make a pretty significant difference, however I cant get it to stay at 30 after fully warmed up, even with BISS adjustment, it's much closer but not quite there yet. I am going to go through the Sigma Six DSM Idle Control steps again, but...

So due to Covid, there seems to be quite the back order on FIAV gaskets as I have been waiting over a month for one. Is there anything else you would recommend I focus on in the meantime? Could I start adjusting the speed density tables a bit or would that be redundant until I fix the idle?

Alright so he's the most recent update. I am having trouble getting the ISC position to 30. I tested the power to the ISC and it seems to be fine, it also does react to the BISS being adjusted. I did another BLT and I am not seeing any real leaks, the only leakage I am hearing is air going...

Vegas smith, thank you very much for that direction, this seems to be where a few of my problems are, looks like I will be busy for a bit. My ISCPosition is pegged at 0 at idle regardless of the BISS location, and my RPMs have been the most controlled since the BISS was adjusted. Thank you...

Ok, so I fixed the TPS voltage issue and the car finally started trying to cycle the O2 simulation I think. I bought a voltmeter to test the alternator and battery etc, ecmlink is showing the battery being around 13.3V however my meter was showing that during idle the battery, alternator fuse...

Vegas smith, I ran out of time I will be fixing the TPS today and hopefully figuring out the charging issue as well.

Quick update before the rain came. I purchased a new battery, this seemed to have helped slightly but it still looks low, I really hope its not the alternator as the current one hasn't even seen more than 30 miles (the battery is an AGM if that matters). I will see what I can address with this...

No, its the pigtails that you have to splice into the harness (the green plug with the red blue and black wires). I did it about a year ago so I need to jog my memory and I followed a write up I believe I found on these forums, I can see if I am able to find it, but I believe I have everything...

Thank you all very much for your input!Vegas smith, yes I noticed that too. I have a new alternator and this battery looks very cheap and old, I'll be replacing that and seeing what difference that makes.JeffGS, the car came with the MAP sensor installed (whoever installed it had the...

So I have gotten to a point in my rebuild that I don't really know what to do next. I am very much an amateur in the car world. Just recently I got my car down to where I moved so I can work on it again and its been a handful. I just rebuilt my throttle body to finish fixing the boost leaks...

So yeah, I was referencing the pinout sheet the whole time, Its just odd there isn't any open pins or doesn't look like anything missing on the plug side. Its just a couple ground wires then another black wire with red striping that I cant figure out where it comes from or where it is supposed...

Thank you for the responses. Yes I agree about soldering, I am just waiting until I get everything dialed in and finalized before I do the finishing touches on the wiring. So just to confirm that everything there looks ok and it is nothing I need to concern myself with. Even with the non...

I discovered a couple ground wires that look to be tied together very oddly on my ecu. It looks like two of them (these two are the non coated silver ones) were connected to both the white wire for the O2 sensor (pin4) and the det sensor (pin 9) tied together along with 2 other black wires one...

Ok guys, I am still baffled. I replaced the alternator and am getting a better battery voltage on the link, and I also relocated the WB up to the front stock location. The WB is still reading sporatically and I have no idea why, I used an install guide on here to install the MAP, IAT, and WB...

Ok guys, thank you for the advice on the battery, I spent the whole day depowering the steering rack and swapping the alternator and now it is reading properly from my voltage tester. I will dig back into the link tomorrow and post an update. Thank you again for pointing me in the right direction.