Update and answers: I am going to try to pull the knock sensor out of the picture tomorrow. That seems like a good idea to at least try. Another great idea that came up was that the CAS is an issue, so another is on it's way now. I went ahead and started setting a fund aside in case I say...

OKAY! I think I have heard enough, read enough, and thought enough also. SO! Let's pretend this IS baby "poop" and it is getting hard to see the overall picture.I am going to save many of you a lot of time and future writings, so I hope that you read this closely.1. If YOU think you...

Hey, Suparata... get some sleep dude. hehe... I'll post on the next results.

Did DSMTuners suddnely get Mickey Mouse on everyone or something? Who the hell are buying DSM's now-a-days?PLEASE READ!!!!lost oil suddenly during a run replaced the oil, filter and drove the car home put a new B-belt on, and it froze right up major taping occurred along with an...

Okay... here is my thought. Let's just assume that one of these could be the issue..1. Timing adjuster (I can check this almost immediately and we can elliminate that as an issue fast).2. Oil pump3. Main bearingsI can change the main bearings, and the oil pump assembly at one...

BUCK!!!! Always a pleasure my friend!!! Still on it dude!!! Never give up!!! Welcome to the next level on this one... again.#0 Good info. Thanks for the heads up on this stuff! I did go to the OEM stuff afterwards. Do you know that in 4 posts on this, across 3 months, you are the first one...

Okay, #1 What position can I put the front balance shaft to insure that it does not hit the counter? I thought the counter was the rear balance shaft? Anyway, the rear was removed and the front is not operational. So if it is a matter of positioning, how do I set it? I haven't seen anything in...

Okay, I first thought that maybe no one read the entire thing... now I know that it must be true. "Sounds like you took a screwed up engine and made it worse and spent a lot of money on it in between." Uh... no. I took a screwed up engine, replaced things to attempt to fix it, and have had no...

No. Is this my problem?

The 92 Eagle Talon lost oil suddenly during a run from the oil filter backing off. This caused the front balance shaft bearings to freeze up, tearing the B-belt apart. I replaced the oil, filter and drove the car home with power still in it and everything seemed fine. Next morning, I tried the...

Screw it, I will tear the rings out tonight.... 2 hour job, and we are going to time it.... I have been in and out of this thing so many times, 2 people can do it.... I'll order rings in the morning..... I mean... after all I have done already? Why the hell not?

Compression test done about 5 minutes ago..... 81, 96, 96, 98 Not good... valve guides and valves?

The first compression check when this first started showed 144, 144, 144, 146. A few minutes ago, it came up 81, 96, 96, 98 in the same order..... Valves and valve guides?

81, 96, 96, 98 (1-4). Valves looked good. Seems like it's time for valves and valve guides? Thanks man!

No dice. Replaced the timing belt and tensioner pulley PLUS the tensioner adjuster, everything is timed right and stays that way. No luck on it fixing the problems.... tapping at the valve cover, and serious loss of power.... Maybe this can help? dundundundundunduuunduuuundundundundun...

Okay, timing is perfect, all new parts there. Still an issue and down to this last theory that a computer code needs to be pulled. I don't have the money. Someone please help to get this step out of the way!!!!

Changed the timing belt and the tensioner pulley... doesn't get off time anymore, but is still having power issues and won't stop the damn tapping! PLEASE someone give me a clue!

Having low power and boost is dragging horribly with a serious tapping at the lifters........ Replaced CAS, elimination kit installed, replaced turbo, replaced wastegate and did the washer mod, replaced knock sensor, replaced lifters with revised set, pulled the head and had the valves and...

Okay.... pulled the head with a little wear on the piston from previous tapping. Put it all back together and installed an oil pressure gauge on the head at the oil line to turbo to see if maybe the oil pressure was just low. I guess it was okay... 45 at idle, and 60 on a short rev to 3000rpm...

Okay: Front balance shaft belt ribs were chewed up and oil filter backed off all at the same time. When the oil pressure dropped, the balance shaft bearings froze up when that happened. SO!!!! Here are the things we did.... 1. We changed the B-belt and it immediately started to smoke and was...

You can check where I did with the www.VFAQ.com or go directly to http://www.vfaq.com/mods/lifters.html to see it. No, you do NOT have to remove the cams for it....

Okay, balance shaft elimination complete. 3rd revision lifters in. Timing good. No leaks that I have found yet. Upped the plug wires from my Accel 300+ Yellows to the Accel 300+ Black Race wires. STILL tapping at #1, and no gain in power on boost. And the car feels really sluggish to get...

Okay, strange request... I am in desperate need of SOMEONE that has a datalogger and TMO cable for first gen (92). I am in desperate dispair and about to drive myself nuts. Now I think the next step is to check the injector duty cycle, but the grand or so that has been dumped into this for...

Oh yeah, plugs are good and I am getting spark at each wire to the plug. Fuel is new (Again).

Okay, coolant level is good, oil pressure rose slightly after the elimination kit for the balance shaft. The timing marks are good with top dead center, except I am a little confused about the crank pulley. When put on it looked like it was way off on it's tick, but the timing tick behind it on...

Removed the rear balance shaft and the power definately came up a little. Hitting about 8lb.s boost, but lagging a lot still like before. Did not fix it. Update: So you know: Checked the timing twice and used Top Dead Center. Still tapping crazy! People heard the tapping from inside the house...

Okay, I have it out. But before I put the stub shaft and everything back in... I ran into an issue, the front shaft did not "pop" loose when removing the plate... Do I HAVE to remove the front? I figured since it was so well in there and disabled, will it offset it any with it still there but...

Factory always is lower. When my car ran right, the factory would show around 12 and the AutoMeter would show 16. Now it shows about 0 compared to the AutoMeter showing 6.

I have changed the lifters and it still causes knock... not the worst thing... I changed teh knock sensor, didn't fix the boost problem, so I changed the turbo! Didn't work! New gaskets, no cracks or leaks! Still running like a 1st gen RS! No power! No boost past 6lbs! What else could be wrong...

I checked everything including redoing my timing and double checking the position of the rear balance shaft. I am guessing MAFS or Turbo, though I can get boost, the creep is incredible.

Timing is perfect. CAS is good, no reversed plug wires. Balance shaft is on the correct rotation. Boost creeps up really slow. I am leaning towards the MAFS. Any comments?

Having exact same problems. Am trying to get through them today. I will post a reply. My issues are multiple so far, but all stemming from a serious lag, but showing boost! Check out my latest post for what I am dealing with, and there may be something there to check out for yourself. Titled...

You think it's the MAFS? What kind of symptoms can this cause?

Re-doing the timing, checking the CAS, checking the position of the rear ba,ance shaft. Exhaust sounds great! Idle is good. will now boost to 11. Exhaust cam off by 2 teeth (Bishilvr explained how lucky I was while running it). I think the exhaust being opened up may have released a bit more...

Okay, I disconnected the cat from the downpipe. No change. I am trying to convince my Grandmother that I need the BIG16 turbo now, and is there ANYTHING else I can check if she says no? MAFS? Maybe? Thanks!

I tried to check for shaft play and see if there was any there. There wasn't and so am confused. New info: I have NOT gutted the cat yet. I am doing that tomorrow. And I have NOT changed the knock sensor yet. Maybe tomorrow.

Okay, everything is back together. I am missing something though, or I am having the weirdest problem. Car starts and idles but again no boost. It DID come up a little. And under a load, it feels good to about 2000rpm, and then just drags until around 4500 when you can kind of feel the power...

I replaced the upper rubber pipe with one from my parts car. I will put everything else back together in the morning and give it a shot. I hope this is it. I guess I can try other things anyway. I will go ahead and gut the cat and remove the muffler (Who needs them in Texas anyway?).

I found that there was a nice hole in the rubber piping to the throttle body, and I tried to check my wastegate. I had an extra plunger from a T-3 (Won't fit) that seem to move pretty easily. And it was out all the way when disconnected. The one off the car was extremely hard to even move, and...

Makes good sense. How can I check this easily? I am with tools, even a stethascope.

You mean leaks?

I tested the turbo out and am determining whether it is the wastegate, catalytic conv, or tubo now. The ticking is completely gone after upgrading to the 2nd gen lifters, can the knock sensor still be out?

Idles fine. Boost is limited by something. Idle is smooth, and seems strong. When under a load, boost should be between 15 1/2 and 16 spooled, it is between 4 and 5 now. The valve lashes were tapping EXTREMELY hard and the turbo may have lost oil when the filter spun off, I shut it down within...

Okay, feedback for all the future questions: Balance shaft belt went nuts, and the oil filter literally spun off during a run in with a Mustang SVT (Which I spanked anyway). IMMEDIATELY shut down when the AutoMeter warning came on and pulled over. Put a new oil filter and oil on at site and...

1st things first... there are 4 metal acceptance tubes under the intake manifold. You should have only 2 vacuum lines to them, the far inside 2. On the other side, under your coil packs and manifold, you will find the other end of the 4 metal tubes. There should be only 2 vacuum lines coming off...

Oh wow... Swedish Fellatio Team? hehe Here's the deal, there are plusses and minus' to this "project." First of all, to manifold the turbos, you will need to make a custom manifold that will support both. Stop trying to figure out how to connect the turbos together. To accomplish this, you...

Thanks! Perfect fit! Of course, that's where it is SUPPOSED to be! Now I have to solve my power loss. C-ya! :thumb:

Here you go... There are 5 items in the Alternator wiring harness from the main harness running in the front of the vehicle. 1 and 2: White wires both large that connect to the alternator with a nut. 3 and 4: White and black wires (smaller) that are attached to a connector that then plugs...

I tried to run it with the balance shafts in. Not bad at all. I was kinda expecting the vibration of a 72 Nova with a 454 and crazy lope. It shutters every few seconds like the coil packs are missing a little, but that's it! My oil pressure rose a LOT! I am still considering an electric oil...

Does anyone have a link to somewhere where I can get instruction on removing that rear shaft? Basic instruction will do. Nothing is too difficult, and I have an extended knowledge from most. I am curious about what would happen if I left the rear balance shaft in? Is it just vibration I deal...