Alright happy Saturday everyoneWhat I have done is very unconventional and slipped a new set of bearings. Upon doing so I double checked all bearing clearances again after installing a brand new set of ARP main studs and the mains have exactly .0002in on all bearings. Then finally bought a...
I'm terrible at reading the bearings understanding what they mean.
All I know is bearings look not great obviously but crank is in perfect condition still. Thrust bearing isn't even eaten up too bad
Motor has always been built by me and rebuild was done because I melted pistons with bad fuel from gas station previously. Car run on e85 only and turned out the pump gave me 88 unleaded after talking with the tenant.Ive built about 12 motors or more. So before i started the car and had it...
So I actually don't have a dial indicator for the crank but the feeler gage idea is genius. I'll give that a try and hope to the dsm God's that the play isn't too bad. Now if and probably when I'm out of spec for the end play, I will more than likely have to drop the pan to see if the crank is...
Today I woke up at 8am to do another oil change on my brand new motor find out it keep shaving crankwalk symptoms. Threw my 17mm wrench and can't find it now
Cars on Speed density though. That would have nothing to do with pressing clutch in I assumed. Like I know for 110% that I don't have a leak. Vacuum at idle was around -12 Vacuum with 280 cams. I forgot already but I believe endless
Play need to be with .002-.005???
I'll be dropping the pan tonightI'll be dropping pan tonight to do that actually. I have been doing oil changes hoping it was the break in oil contaminating everything but still keep coming out glittery and the stranger thing is that the oil will be glittery on one change and then the next oil...
The question I'm asking is about crankwalk, and yes I know ow there a other threads out there but nothing like what I'm experiencing. So what I'm asking is where to look for trouble shooting more.With that being said, I have a 98 gst. The motor is freshly rebuilt and has only idled and never...
So…. Update. I dropped the oil pan to visually inspect everything and the crank has walked. So can an too much pressure from the pressure plate cause it to do something like this. But more than likely I installed things improperly. Trust me I know this is a dumb question but can you replace...
In profile, but they are 1600cc five-o motor sport high impedance. They are scaled to 60psi to flow around 1940cc on e85 with no ethanol sensor. So I will measure the e rating at pump and adjust tune as I go.
So I’m ecmlink, you are about theSo bump up the coasting fc offset?My exhaust cam is about 1/4 to 1/2 a degree advanced. Could something that small cause an issue too? They are BC cam gears never adjusted them because I didn’t think I would need to.The video is show the crank pulley...
I know the 280 are a bit excessive for a street build. And thats part my fault because I don’t really know anyone with 280s on a street car maybe 272 would be more appropriate
Okay, I’ll have to check end play of crank. But as far as everything else when I’m in neutral the cars perfectly fine. But one the clutch is released it seem like the loss of momentum drops the rpm’s extremely quick. I never had issues with rpm’s dropping so fast.
So to explain more….. yes when...
I have been looking for a similar situation in the forums, but can’t find anything with similar build and conditions as mine.I have a brand new rebuild (<300 miles)
Bc 280 cams with supertech dual valve springs, a big custom intake manifold (from my understanding). Fwd XACT 12lb flywheel...
From my understanding recently from a friend is that water cooling portion of the OFH isn’t for cooling. I was told it is to help with things getting up to temperature better not for cooling.
I’m running a holset hx35 and I have no need for coolant lines to the turbo because of the turbo...
I was leaking very badly from my Bov and throttle body. the boost leaks are now all taken ccare of.
After finishing every up on the car it was able to make full boost with no break up. i changed a few numbers for the injectors and it broke up again so now i am ordering a AFR kit tomorrow...
The turbo has quite a bit of shaft play, and I just found a tiny leak at the throttle body gasket again. My Fpr is set to 43psi and holds there until throttle is open and then is lowers a bit to about 40I’m still trying to fix all leak, and I already had them gapped to .17 and still broke up...
i took the car for a test drive today after fixing some boost leaks i found. car idles okay, but again its breaking up at 4k Rpm and will barely making 6psi of boost.
I have upgraded to denso 660CC injectors and bought new plug wire and replaced the coil packs.Evo Scan Log should be attached...
I just received my new br8es and put those in. Now the car breaks up at 4K rpm. I will try and get a log before I have work, but my logs are off evoscan so not sure how hard it’s going to be posting them
I will give that a shot. Because I was told to run the ngk bpr plugs. I will order some BRs and see if that fixes my issue. Because now I’m not making full boost and break up is getting worse again
Hello, This is my first post. And I’ve tried looking up my exact issues and had no luck finding anything yetJust got a new laptop so I don’t have any logs yet
•Brand new plug wires
•Brand new NGk BPR6es gapped to .020
•Coil packs are in good condition
•Have 280 cams and have great vacuum...