It would help if I could find the oil pressure requirements for this turno

Installed a guage teed into the feed line, im getting 80 psi cold start fast idle at 3k, drops down to 25 at idle 1k rpm, reving to 4.5k (launch control, gotta turn it off and do it again) I'm seeing 80 psi, so I'm probably around 120-130 at 7k, this all at the feed line, what size restrictor...

Just got it installed, ain't no hx35, but damn, it works pretty good, spools only a tiny bit slower than my 14b (ain't saying much, the inducer was pretty shredded) Now, im it unrestricted from the ofh with a -4an line and 2g return with 3/4" hose, no smoke or anything if I do a 3rd gear pull to...

Damn, ya, must have missed that

Think I found a Post on it https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/turbo-gurus-please-chime-in-looking-for-opinion-on-hybrid-turbo.278860/ About 5 or 6 posts down, those pics certainly look identicalGuess that makes it 60-1?Ill measure it when it gets here, untill then it's just a guessing game

Im limited to 91, or crappy 94 where I live, so I substitute with meth injection, I'll just run the turbo and tune for whatever ends up being the max it will output, dont care so much about peak hp or anything

Damn, I knew I shoulda got that hx35

Gotcha, was thinking that's likely the best option

One other question, since ive removed my balance shafts, should I oil it from the head? Or ofh? I figured ofh, but can't find much info, some say head, others say always ofh, just curious if there's was anything specific to this turbo and oiling I should know, line size? Return size?

By no better than a 16g do you mean to say that it would flow about the 16g, but obviously laggier since its so large? Or that it just isn't efficient in this setup?And how would you recommend setting it up? Different housing or something?

Well I'll be damned, a 50 trim eh? Thanks for the help guys

So I recently bought a turbo (used) off someone, initially he was gonna send an hx35 with a bep housing, but the bep housing didn't fit the hx35 so he is sending it with the turbo that it was on, however the the id plate is illegible, and neither of us can figure out what turbo it is, other than...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/otk54ba9tqm1lpo/new%20log%20april%2017.elg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/23xj7yc5bw9yqkh/log.2019.04.17-22.elg?dl=0did some more pulls tonight, started fresh with a stock speed density table, seems to be better, but its still a bit lean under 20+ psi, do I just need...

Ok, new shift fork, shifts great now Added an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, increases base by 10 psi, and also found the correct settings for these injectors, starts up and runs waaay better now, also added another ground strap from the alternator to the chassis, that seems to have fixed...

Could be the ground system from it, I'll do some digging, as for the clutch fork, I've got another one here from a junk trans I used for parts, but it's still a royal pain in the ass to have to pull the trans again. It looks like the fork was hitting the trans, I'll have to make sure to adjust...

What would cause the volts to drop at wot?

I just ordered an afpr, which should be here Thursday, so I'll find out if that fixes the problem, but I think your on to something there, it's probably not enough fuel, as for the knock, ya, I'll pull more timing outAlso, my clutch fork just snapped in half, so I'll be fixing that before I...

I don't have a fp gauge, and for the price of a gauge, id be able to just put a new afpr on, but anyways, what you said makes sense, if I richen it up under boost where it starts to buck (it's literally like it has no fuel for a second), it helps, but still does it a little bit, but mostly is...

Would a bad, or failing fuel pressure regulator cause this sorta issue? It would make sense right? If fuel pressure isn't raising 1:1

It's not that, I've got it set to 4500, and I can rev to 7k, and I have nlts off since my clutch switch is disconnectedHonestly, it feels like a misfire or something, but I don't know why, I know it's a tuning issue, but I can't figure out if it's too lean, rich, or a timing issue, or maybe...

Since it's speed density, as far as I understand, a boost leak is less important than if I had a mad, but anyways, I pressurized the system with an air compressor, and there were no leaks

1). No boost, vac, or exhaust leaks. No noticeable leaks 2). Verify mechanical timing. Fresh timing belt, properly setup 3). Verify base timing. 5° 4). Ignition system. 028, NGk br7es 5). Motor health. Fresh Build, about 1k kms on it 6). Basic throttle body adjustments. Adjusted and tight, TPS...

Ok, Still having issues, could someone take a look at my tune and tell me whats wrong? it doesn't like starting, and dies immediately after startup unless I hold the pedal, then the afrs are all over the map, cant seem to get the fuel tables dialed. At this point I cant even get it to idle, let...

Ok, did some testing, turns out I AM getting spark, the plugs just got cooked from all the fuel from the cold starts and cranking I guess, threw some new plugs in, and swapped back to the aem, fired right up but was maxing out the wideband, I'll switch around the cold start maps and see what happens

I did, all were good, however, it has an alpine alarm, Theres two fuses up under the dash, I doubt they blew, but anythings possible, I'll check it when I get home

Already have the correct coil dwell and cas setup in the tune, well, according to the wizard it's correct atleastIt was a stock ignition map from aemtuner for a 1g DSM, I compared it to ones id found online that others had made for ecmlink, and edited them a bit, I followed instructional...

Might be better to post this issues in the other thread I had going, probably more relevant than here

Ok, I've made some good progress, I used a combination of the base tune for a 1g, 2g, and Evo 8 from the base tunes in aemtuner, and then adjusted things till it started fast and reliably with a good idle.then I shut it down to do some tweaking and to read the log and it wouldn't restart, i...

Wideband is connected and working, Base timing and injector battery offset are the only things I didn't change since I didn't know what to change them to, as for timing, I haven't even gotten past fuel at idleI input all my sensors and they seem to be responding correctly, but I can only get...

1g 1993 AWD 7 bolt 550cc injectors 268/272 cams 8.5:1 Cr Forged internals Water meth kit Speed density, gm 3bar and iat Aem wideband Compound turbo setup 14b/16g Trying to tune for 20psi (I'd do waaay more, but these injectors just can't do more than 20)I bought an aem ems (30-1300) used...

Pulled the assembly out, it wasn't too bad, welded it up anyways, definitely helped, but didn't fix the issue, I ended up welding a nut onto the end of the clevis to allow me to adjust the Mc rod just a little but more and that seemed to do it, it disengages like this now Top | | | Here | |...

Removed the extended rod, and adjusted the Mc rod in about an inch, and the pedal dropped down a couple inches, moved it by hand and could feel alot of play in the assembly, so I think it's pretty safe to say it's a worn Assembly, I'll pull it this weekend and see

- The step height is wrong, most likely, but the fact that I have it set so the shift fork sits closer to the drivers side, I don't think that's the issue- Broken throw out bearing, doubt it, it's new and this has been an issue since day one- Clutch pedal/bar got cracked, I couldn't find any...

One other thing, I've had transmission issues since I got this thing put back together, I've shimmed the pivot ball (head bolt washer+ another thin washer), adjusted the mc rod as far as I can, and even tried shoving something behind the sc rod to lengthen it (just to test, was getting pissed...

Long story short, base timing was off, had it too advanced, and was injecting too much water-meth (rich knock) knock gauge barely moves now and can pull right till the injectors run out at around 22-25 psi, so I'll set the MBC to 20 and put the timing to around 3° or so and leave it

Ya, your right, I'm just trying to get it to a driveable position right nowI'm going to use a timing light with advance and set timing via the timing sprockets, I've read that's more reliable than the timing cover marks

Yes, I used a timing light with the marks on the timing cover and adjusted the cas till I got about 5°, then turned it a bit further to get closer to what I assume to be about 4°, but the cas is almost all the way counter clockwise now

I've got the cas turned almost all the way to get it to about 4° base timing, turning the other way just gives me a toooon of advance even just turning it a little bitShould also mention, my 7 bolt (domed, black cover) cas died on my so I slapped my 6 bolt spare one it and been running on that...

Yes, but they're zeroed out currentlyIdeally, tuning would be an option, the only reason I haven't gotten ecmlink is because of the cost right now Anyways I think your correct about the rich knock, cause it would only do it shortly after meth would start, so I set it to start injecting meth...

I literally just put the motor back in the car about 100km ago, had to replace the crank, so since I had to re-install it, I know the valve timing is good, unless it jumped a tooth or something, but it doesn't feel like it

So I reseated the knock sensor, adjusted the meth Injection settings to start at 2 psi and all in by 20, and set the boost to around 20 psi, so far, it hasn't registered any knock, but if I turn the boost to around 25 psi it starts shuddering and THEN registers knock, so I bet it's just running...

I wouldn't really say it's bucking, it's more like a nasty shudderI tried another knock sensor in a hole a little farther down and all it did was trip a cel, so I guess it's bad, I tried pulling out the stock one and I couldnt get it out, but was able to back it off a bit and snug it back up...

It's gotten worse. Basically can't boost, tried giving it meth earlier, no change, tried disabling it, no change. It's almost undriveable, just starts bucking and pulling timing at almost any boost level, gonna try swapping out the knock sensor first and see what happens

Compound1g submitted a new DSM Profile :CompoundRead more about this vehicle here...

It's not consistent either, it will sometimes start bucking and feels like it just pulled 30° timing at like 6 psi and just fall on its face (while the gauge shoots up indicating it's registering knock) other times it works great and doesn't pull timing till around 16-18 psiAlso, I was on the...

Ya, it's almost undriveable, once it hits around 5-8 psi it starts bucking and shaking a bit the the needle shoots up, and if I hold it it builds a bit more boost but doesn't actually accelerateIt's 8.5:1 Cr running 91 and meth injection, I should be able to do 8 psi....

There's nothing around here for race gas, best I can get is chevron 94, but it runs better and knocks less with shell 91I was using that particular unit as an example, I'd just get something similarI've got a spare knock sensor here, I'm thinking of plugging off the microphone port on it and...

I set base timing to about 4°, ive got the cas almost all the way adjusted to get it to that pointI was thinking something like this: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353I'd totally Run e85 if I could get it locally, nearest place to get it is a ferry ride and 800km away, but...

Figured I should follow up I've put about 100km on it now, popped open the filter and found some black debris (probably gasket material from when I cleaned the off the front cover gasket) And almost no metal, so I think it should be ok nowHowever, I've been chasing a pinging issue since I...