Mechanic Special
$1,500
On on operation
Clean title
133,000 ish miles
Located in Northern CaliforniaUpdate: After rebuilding the car, it ran fine at first, but after about a week later I didn't notice I was running the car on low coolant and was overheating the car. The next day it started...
My car doesn't seem to run at its full potential. When i step on the gas the engine seems/sounds like its running fast, but the car accelerates very slow, slower than a civic lol. Do you think a bad o2 sensor would cause that problem?
I got a new oring for my thermostats housing and I'm having trouble to have the thermostat lign up. Do I have to hammer it cause seems like it dont wanna fit with the oring
Ok thanks yea ill have someone do that for me I dont know much about electrical stuff. So as long as the cel dont come on, than my o2 should still be functioning?
Was working on my thermostat and found out the o2 sensor harness was ripped. Its only the black wire tho, the yellow and red is good. I didn't have any CEL come on so am I still good is it still functioning? or do I need to replace the harness or is there another way ti fix the...
Keep running into new problems after I fix one, if money wasn't a issue I'd keep it, I still haven't figured out what the knock is but after driving it the knock goes away
Ok so I took my car for a drive ran good for first few minutes,but moments later the car ran like crap, couldn't even go faster than 20mph. I slowly drove the car home and when I arrived the engine was smoking like hell and noticed coolant was leaking. I just want to be sure that the sluggish...
It only happens when I step on the throttle as the engine runs harder, there's a single loud metal thump, similar to a hammer hitting the oil pan, from to under the engine. I doubt it's a rod knock cause its not constant, there's about a 3 second gap between each knock and as the engine slows...
I just rebuilt the car and it wont even idle right. When I step on the throttle, seems like the response is sluggish and inst giving its full power when I step on it, even the rpms wont go up and isn't moving as I rev and for some reason when I let my foot off the throttle the engine then starts...
It cranks for a brief moment, than hesitates by spinning slowly and repeats. It won't continuasly spin. My timing marks are good and I just charged my battery..
What I'm trying to say is on a natural position with the belt off, the sprockets don't allign to the top of head cylinder... what I'm wondering is do I move both to allign correctly with the top of the head, or do I just move the exhaust to match with the intake cause from the front view, the...
I'm redoing my timing once again and now I noticed the sprockets sit with the exhaust retarded and the intake advanced when relaxed.D I just move the exhaust to line up with the intake, or do I move both to allign with the top of the cylinder head, I'm wondering cause some people just say just...
So your saying without any oil or lube oil won't get sucked up at all? Im pretty sure that lube just assist, but there should still be oil getting sucked lubed or not
I only put wd40 on the gears to keep them lubricated as I didn't have any vasoline at the time, I'll be pulling my oil pump out once again and do a further inspection. Thanks
I spinned it for about 5 minutes but seems like no progress so I stopped spinning it, spins very fast same speed as if the car was running, I didn't fill it up all the way just in case there was a leak, but there wasn't a leak so I filled her up to 4 quarts. Still keep spinning nothing, when I...
I'm trying to prime my rebuilt engine but there isn't any oil getting to the lifters when I spin the oil sprocket with a drill. Has brand new 3g lifter I bleed them out before install, oil pump was reconditioned and did a balance shaft delete. I filled the engine with only 3.5 quarts is that...
I'm redoing my timing since I had my water pump leak. Anyways, without my belt on, the exhaust cam sits retarded.. I was wondering do I have to move both sprockets at the same time or do I just move the retard exhaust to have it alligned
Sorry guys, the front engine mount isn't on so the engine is slanted upright and the angle I took the pic in is creating a illusion. I just very slightly rotated the crank and lines up now☺
I took apart the oil pump and cleaned it up and put it back together. Now I can spin it by hand easily, only problem is it won't automatically rotate back to a certain position should I worry about that?
Ugh, I'm tired spending money on this car, Everytime I get something fixed, I always run into another problem. Is the a way to get it unseized without buying new parts. Btw there's no oil in the car since I was rebuilding the engine. The shaft is unlubricated and dry since it's been sitting...
If I remove the left motor mount, will the engine fall? I currently don't have a trolley to put under the oil pan, but I already have the car up on jacks on both sides. Having trouble removing the water pump pulley since the mounts in the way....
I'm just going to do it myself, but I need help. Is there a certain order to remove the accessory belts and pulleys out the way to get to the timing cover? This is my first timing working on a timing belt thanks