OBD2 codes in my experience are about as good as poking around the engine bay in many cases. Something many people don't suggest is If you already have a laptop and a few bucks get a cable and software that can poll OBD2 sensor data. The factory polling rate on our cars sucks but being able your...

Adding to "anything rubber" inspect anything that rubber hoses connect to as those surfaces could probably use some TLC (the aluminum thermostat housing comes to mind). Pitting on these surfaces can go deeper than it would at first appear and they can easily be patched. Make sure your coolant...

Personally I run my wide band in the factory location. I did this after having issues with 2 wideband sensors crapping out in my downpipe. Apparently if you don't mount them at the right angle based on pipe direction in relation to gravity and distance from a bend you could potentially have...

That's awesome, seems like noisy HLAs or some were bleeding off too much oil pressure. I'm interested to see if that had any effect on head pressure now that things have quieted down.

Yeah, I dropped it off at another place (far more reputable) for a second opinion and a quote on cutting and possibly dropping in some new seats if needed. Boss called within a couple hours with a quote of a benny square to cut and lap the exhaust and before close it was finished. His head guy...

Seems like it's only the exhaust valves this time. Intakes all look good. Second time I have given it to them. At least the guides are installed at the appropriate depth and they fixed the seat pad they buggered up.Is this the sort of thing I should insist they fix or do I cut my losses and...

I got the head back again today so it's update time. The guide install depth seems to be resolved. A few are iffy but nothing is out of spec. The spring seat pad is now usable and their cleanup of that looks decent enough.I am still seeing the issue with the valve seat contact area being far...

Well I've seen what knock voltage looks like. I was saying that I've never personally used this specific method to view knock sensor voltage.

Yes, you would have to add a properly insulated port to the knock sensor harness as to make listening and viewing as easy as plugging in your oscilloscope or amp.The oscilloscope unit processes the inputs then sends the data to a laptop to be viewed. I got mine from Amazon for like 80$ because...

Have you thought about listening to the knock sensor to hear what kind of sound its picking up? You can not only listen using a small headphone amplifier and some wired headphones but with even a cheap USB oscilloscope in place of the amp you can visually inspect the signal. I don't know what...

Yeah, the more I think about the less it feels right. I'm gonna see what he comes up with as a solution. I don't understand how every exhaust valve could be off by that much and how they couldn't have noticed prior to lapping them in and why they didn't do a 3 angle after replacing the guides...

After looking it over there is so much more wrong with it. The guides are all seated too deep with one being .133 out of spec and every one of the exhaust valve seates are .09ish wide on the outside edge and .5ish on the inside edge. I provided a spec sheet which the machinest says he never saw...

There is a lot more wrong with it now that I poke around. Some of the guides are installed WAY too deep and I'm fairly sure they didn't do a proper valve job like they said because some of those seats are way too wide.

The guide is new and you can't really see it in the picture. Just the seal and the pad? I don't even know what to call the part that is bent but it's the part that the guide seats in. The Machinist must have slipped while installing the guide. I just don't know if that's fixable.

So, I got my head back from the shop and one of the spring pads is bent which is interfering with seat fitment. How borked is this?

You check all your grounds? Idk it's probably something stupid that's been overlooked? Some people throw grounds in from the engine, the trans, the exhaust, pretty much anywhere with a non critical bolt that could build up a charge gets grounded.

Thank you. I have watched his cylinder head videos which is actually what prompted this because that is the only decent bit of info I could find on the topic yet it doesn't really go into what it should and shouldn't look like aside from scoring. It actually occurred to me that I had no idea...

Okay, so after a few hours of cleaning one of these up I have learned... Almost nothing. It just looks like part of it wasn't making contace with the back of the valve stem. The area in question in the image is the portion of textured metal which seems to protrude into the polished area. Now, I...

Unfortunately most of the lifters are exactly like that one to some extent so I ordered a new set and am tossing all but the ones that are almost perfect. The small wear on the rockers doesn't seem concerning at all? I might go with slightly tighter springs but the head won't see any higher than...

I'm posting this because I don't think there has been a clear cut explanation as to what is and is not an acceptable wear pattern for lash adjusters and rocker arms. At least I haven't been able to find one on here over the past few days. The search function is either not the greatest or I...

Don't know too much about the dodge block but I can throw out some rules of thumb. The ECU wants 4 things to produce spark. A crank and cam position signal, an ignition control module if it has one, and good coils. If it doesn't have those 4 things or the ECU itself is no good then you have no...

Ahh, I have watched those. I actually pulled a mostly good cylinder head off a 4g63 yesterday and stripped it down for parts. He makes some good stuff

Thanks man, This is the farthest I have ever been into an automotive engine. Funny thing is that I rebuilt the automatic trans in my BMW and did valve body and clutch modifications to my talon but this is what intimidates me. lol

2 years and less than 25k on all the timing components. Was probably the tensioner. It came out of a gates kit. I should have known better than to trust anything but OE with a pre-sealed part. Expensive lesson learned I suppose.

Yeah, pump spun freely with no wear marks. Still has the factory machine swirlies and everything and gear to housing clearance is tight. No debris found anywhere but there was 2 tiny marks on the rear balance shaft inner bearing (not the pump bearing). Gouges on the pistons aren't that bad but I...

So recently I had a timing component failure and am still kinda iffy on what happened.With the head in the shop and finally having the time to look things over I found that the belt was not the weakest link. None of the rubber in the belt looked softened, squishy, or dry rotted as I unwrapped...

I love how on page 107 it says the standard value for exhaust valve length is 199.7mm and the limit is 109.2. DAWG if your 199mm valve is being worn down to 109mm something is definitely wrong. Or is it a feature and not a flaw? IDK Pretty sure that's a typo that should read 109.7. Wonder what...

Alternatively I found a decent write up on a hobble together device that allows you to listen to your knock sensor. If you're familiar with what knock sounds like as opposed to other engine noises then it might be something you could look into for a definitive answer.

Dude! Does that work? I thought you could only log ignition retard as a result of knock.

So an anomaly some people refer to as phantom knock is a really iffy subject in these forums. Some people will tell you it's just the sensitivity of our knock sensor and/or how the ECU responds to certain engine noises. Others will tell you that it means that it's hearing something that it...

Mine wasn't making any weird noises either. Would usually trigger the check engine light I would say between 2,000 and 3,500 regardless of engine load and stop as soon as I let off the gas. Before it crapped out it began coming on at 1,500 baybe a bit lower. I thought it was sus but it still...

For the sake of being sure have a thorough once over of your engine. Mine did that for months before my timing belt took a dump. I suspected lifters at first even though I had replaced them. Got really bad about a week ago about 20 min before it shat out on me now I'm sending the head off for 16...

I hadn't considered the additional leak point. Honestly I think the issue comes down to too much added complexity to the otherwise seemingly simple task of putting 2 things together. Its not that it wouldn't necessarily work its more that it would be WAY too much effort for an unknown outcome...

Thank you CrackedDSM for that explanation. It kept me searching for other avenues which brought me to a write up done by RRE on putting a 1g head onto a 2g block. It goes into the differences in port size. 1g measures 60l x 37w and the 2g measures 56l x 28w. That doesn't sound so bad until you...

Wow, that's what 40% larger it looks like? Wow, the width though. I can't find the thread where it was comparing each runner area of the cyclone mani to the port area but it came out to like 27% or something smaller than the 2g mani port which is what has me interested. ill keep digging for that.

There really isn't a lot of actual info on the E3 mani in regards to lowish torque either. Its mostly people saying it makes a bit more here or there in the mid range (mostly after 4k and holds up well at higher RPMs. It seems to have a negligible if ever so slightly negative effect on torque...

I'm not stuck on using it necessarily. I'm honestly quite happy with how the factory mani flows. The port sizes cant be THAT different tough. What is "way"? if its only like 4 mil wide and 10mil long that's not really way off. I mean its certainly relevant to flow but when considering the work...

I'm not trying to regurgitate the same questions that have been asked over and over but I have looked and looked through the forums for solid info on this topic and I have found few if any useful or productive and not conflicting replies. I also don't want anyone to think I'm trying to come off...

Looks like there should also be an alignment dowel there as well.

Not sure what you mean by north south. The front roll stop mounts to the front of the longitudial brace that runs under the engine, the rear mounts to the transverse brace that sits below and just in front of the firewall behind the engine. On a 4g63 the engine mount is in the driver's side...

Thank you, I actually saw this yesterday and have since been looking for a place I can source a good bit more. I'm sure my first one or two attempts won't go exactly as planned. I will have to make them from the old completely destroyed mounts I kept the first two times and will likely have to...

So here this goes. I have owned my 95 talon for about 3 years now and I have had a consistent problem that I can't seem to resolve. It's these dang roll stops, they keep tearing.When I first purchased it they where bad, fine I'll replace them rear then front and the front was hard to tighten...

Not everyone purchases a socketed ECU. I didnt personally because I have done plenty of desoldering prior to purchasing a moats setup. I was saying if an owner soldered the socket in themselves to be careful how rough you are with prying on the PCB as the solder joints may not be all that great.

Yes, the Ostrich connects via a ribbon cable. Generally to install an EPROM emulator the factory EPROM chip is desoldered from the ECU PCB and a socket is soldered in it's place. The ribbon cable is then inserted into that socket to provide a connection to the Moates emulator (Ostrich). Since...

Where did you all come from? I have to admit I'm a bit surprised so many people have used moats. A year ago I searched for weeks and could hardly find anything. I'm quite shocked and kind of glad I wasn't alone in my initial purchase over a year ago.

I'm assuming since your running moats ostrich which is an eeprom emulator that your ECU is already socketed. You pull the ECU, open it up, and carefully swap the ostrich cable to the ECMlink chip (that ostrich cable can really be stuck in there if it has been a while). From there you plug The...

I had moats for a while on a 2g. I can tell you from experience that this is probably not the best place for help with Ostrich as most people if not everyone here will either overlook any post regarding it or just tell you to spring for link and say that ostrich is not worth your time even...

I know I have not really updated this ever but with all the time and thought that goes into making sure I do things right the first time it is hard to remember to contribute to something that has helped me out so much through my DSM ownership. So then an update is in order.Well a lot has...

90 amp alternators came on automatics as the TCU and transmission solenoids together require about 10 to 15 additional amps. There shouldn't be a difference between the design. Make sure it's for the 4g64/3 and not a 420a. Websites like rock auto have a really bad habit of mislabelling parts.

Dude, I totally feel that. One month on stands due to weeks waiting for the refund of incorrect parts and I had replaced or refinished every suspension component, brakes, bearings, a CV shaft, and the rear subframe. I figured if I'm doing one thing I might as well do it all before I regret it...