Okay so I’ve got a 98 Eclipse GS-T. Just got it back up and running with a fresh t25 turbo. I’ve had a p1104 issue prior to this new install. I’ve had old turbo apart for so long after rebuilding myself but forgot to mark to keep it balanced. Long story short easier just to get a new turbo...

Question for you. Do you think if it is rings as well. Should I just replace rings and enjoy it for a little or just build it. My plans are full internals, FP green with archers fab manifold and etc bolt ons. Problem I’m having on deciding is is there much I can do to get more power like say...

What I was thinking too. Appreciate it. Off topic but I was rebuilding due to oil burning issue. I was going to get it compression tested to check if rings are bad. I have replaced valve seals just a little over two years ago. It only smokes letting off throttle after spooling up and hard decel...

Yeah I knew when I was drinking taking this apart I forgot to do something. How much does that usually run getting it balanced. If it’s over $100 I might just go find a bigger setup.

4 - 4 1/2 years ago I had to replace water pipe o-ring. When I had the turbo out I was trying to figure which it was. I wanted to rebuild. I think I ended up just ordering a rebuild kit for t25 or whatever. I honestly don’t remember. I have turbo out again. Made mistake of not marking the shaft...

So I had problem of my 1998 eclipse gs-t not starting one day, thought it was multiple other issues but turned out it was the CAM sensor, not it’s acting the same way, cranks over normal (real fast) but doesn’t turn over and start up. Last time I sprayed ether in the intake and it turned over...

I wanna keep this AS short AS POSSIBLE haha but give as much info to you guys reading it to further help me out, so here it goes.So last year in September I had issues with crank (cranks like any normal time, not slow like a dead battery) but no start. So I came on here and read a few forums...

Having a issue with crank but no start. First it turned out to be cam sensor and car has been running for a while maybe two months, do not daily drive anymore though. Now car won’t start again. Acting up the same way. Replaced cam sensor finally with a new OEM one. Maybe the OEM one I bought was...

Well I said screw it and just proved them again tonight with paper clips and well cam sensor has a constant 11.7 volts and coolant temp sensor that goes to ecu I got a constant 4.7. I wiggles connectors around. So you were right On the way I probed them the first time around. But if I got a...

I just probed them with regular multimeter probes and stuck them in as far as possible without bending or breaking anything. And just holding the connector still it wasn’t at twelve volts. I’ll try agin tmr with a paper clip and alligator clamps. But it makes sense thought of the connector isn’t...

I’m wanting to know how to take out the HAVC controls so I can replace with red LEDS. I took out center console out and unscrewed all four screws in HVAC to get out and the brackets are still holding it in. So do I need to take out the dash to get to the HVAC? Or is there something I’m missing...

I posted pics of wiring I ordered pigtail for cam sensor. What’s best way to connect the new pigtail? My other post with the pics I said how connector as I tested it would jump up and down voltage so I assume it’s just the cam sensor connector itself. But I bought the pigtail off ohmracing. I’m...

So I went ahead and just got the pics tonight of wiring. It all looks decent to me. I went ahead and put key in car and checked connector with multimeter on the cam sensor. Well I got 3.5 volts then started to wiggle connector around and went to 11.7 to less than 1 volt. So I’m guessing my...

Okay, well I'll try and get pics of both wiring to connectors of both sensors tomorrow and see if you guys think it looks any good, I'll order the pigtails off ohm racing anyways but what is the best way to splice them, I feel like soldering them would be a challenge with how much the harness...

But my sensor is brand new for coolant for the ecu. And each time I replace cam sensor it starts up no hesitation, I replaced sensor a few days ago again and started car up while it was 17 degrees out in the morning. But after four to five days the cam sensor goes out and if I replace it again...

It is the stock setup for the sensor for a 98 gs-t. Not sure which 2g one that would be that you said. Could ut be the connector and if so how do I test it to see?

As stated above I believe it’s called import direct from oreillys. Now each sensor is brand new and sealed so no one else has returned either one. I doubt it has anything to do with the brand at this point. Yes ik autopart stores don’t sell the best quality but it’ll get the job done most of the...

If I remember right where the PTU is located which is behind the middle of the fuel rail? If so I have never bumped nor touched that sensor and the other day I did make sure it was all the way down and locked and it was. I’m starting to think maybe I have a leaky cam seal which is getting oil on...

That’s the first thing I looked it around four weeks ago when car didn’t start. the sensor and wiring looked good. After that I checked everything else plus replacing wires, plugs, fuel pump and filter, coolant temp sensor for ecu and checked for fuel, spark, timing, compression and all checked...

That’s the first thing I replaced when this happened four weeks ago. So I know it’s not the coolant sensor. I just got a replacement cam sensor today for free so I’ll see how many days the car runs again before it happens again

So my last two posts were about a crank but no start, after listening to a guy from STMTuned saying it was most likely spark plugs then having my mechanic from my job look at it telling my fuel filter, as well replacing fuel pump and a few other things car still did not start. I kept thinking it...

It was the CAS. I kept thinking it was but it make no since about how two plugs were wet in fuel and two were dry. Then how I got the car started with starting fluid and it ran weird but ran on its own after you got it started. I replaced the CAS and it fired right up. Runs perfect. The coolant...

Well yesterday I finally went and picked the CAS up and said screw it. Replaced It and fired right up. Now I have a coolant leak due to previous owner never putting a gasket on thermostat housing which idk why all of a sudden it just started leaking after I got the car running. But at least...

I got car to run after spraying starter fluid and ran until I either revved it and let off throttle quickly or put in gear or if I turned it off. But after spraying starter fluid in it I can get it turned on and let it idle but it isn’t running right and when revved it feels like there isn’t...

I got car to start finally, but here’s the catch. With starting fluid. I let car idle for about 10-20 minutes which means it can run on its own after started fluid. So it’s not getting enough fuel or spark on crank. Leaves me to think CAS or coil pack or ignition module. I don’t think a injector...

I’m not sure if I’m able to get one to view. But here’s the weird thing, I started it last night. Used starter fluid it cranked and turned over finally. After the starter fluid burned up I didn’t spray anymore. It idled for 10-20 minutes I even slowly revved car up to 3500 and let off easy...

It’s in correct firing order. And actually if you read my other longer post I said I sprayed some starter fluid after taking tps off and cranking it started to turn then put tps back on and sprayed started fluid in and first time it died. Second time it burned through all it and Idled for 6-10...

Double checked. Resistance on all is 2.2 ohms and with a flat blade screw driver they were all ticking checked twice. And I’m not sure. I was reading on other posts that it could be a bad CAS cuz it has something to do with ignition or fuel. Idk it’s what I read.

Stock regulator, but before the 190 I had the stock fuel pump and I know for a fact it wasn’t the fuel pump that was bad cuz after I replaced it with 190 it still didn’t start

Yes it is gas I can smell it. Now here’s the thing today my mechanic at work came to look at car when he had free time. He said change the fuel filter. I did. Car hesitated to start and turn over a bit better a few backfires. Sprayed starting fluid in through the bov recirculation hole car...

After making my first post WAY too long for others to read, this is a shortened version. Replaced alternator and five days later didn't turn over, cranks fine just does not want to start. Has not started for about two weeks now. Battery voltage is 12.7, tried even seeing if battery was bad by...

Cylinder 1 - 101 psi, 2 - 101 psi, 3 and 4 both were 104 psi, mind you this test was on a engine who has not been at operating temps prior to this, yes I know your suppose to warm motor up first for a compression test but engine wont start. I feel like my numbers are fine. I did discover some...

It’s okay I’ve learned not to make a book on here ever again haha

Battery voltage is at 12.4 last time I looked was a few days ago. Cranking voltage was at 11.7.

I can fully understand what you’re saying. I just felt like to give all info up front so I don’t have anyone asking me if I checked this or that. Maybe went to much into to detail, I’m sorry. I’m just frustrated I can’t get it to start. Have fuel. Pretty sure I have spark. I recheck timing once...

Yes I know it’s the longest post ever on here but just here me out. I hate it when someone posts a thread let’s say for instance, “Crank but no start” and only states that the persons car doesn’t start but cranks and he has checked a few things or even checked everything. Obviously they wouldn’t...

Tyler’s_DSM submitted a new DSM Profile :FourBangerRead more about this vehicle here...

I have a 1998 GS-T, stock 7-Bolt. Only external ,mods are exhaust manifold, not sure what brand due to was already on car, STMTuned air filter, HKS BOV (Recirculated), Megan Racing test pipe, Thermal R/D Catback, Walbro 190, running brand new plugs just replaced them like an hour before this...

So my water pipe o-ring to water pump was leaking badly, tore everything apart today including turbo, manifold, downpipe, etc. Now in the midst of this I broke my oil feed line, I bought this car about a year and a half ago, guy told me only was aftermarket turbo, my guess is a 14b but I may be...