Excellent, have found it now thank you.Ive been in contact with him and have got pictures. Its pretty much exactly what I am doing, except with a different type of inner CV. He used tripod type ones, I want to use the round style ones as they are found on my low cost cars here where the...

Interesting. Do you have a link to the RVR facebook group? Might be handy too.Basically I wanted to take a evo spline (can get them from heaps of cars like legnum, airtrek, evo, GSR, outlander etc) inner CV joint and have it cut down on a lathe and weld on the flange for the 3-bolt at the...

So a bit of an odd one and only partially related to DSMsThe RVR runs a 3-bolt rear axle setup, and the bolt together flange is on the inner CV and the outer CV joint splines directly in to the hub much like the fronts... which I believe is the opposite to the G-VR4 and DSM setup where the...

First board producedI installed and did a test today. Without any significant effort to do any tuning (just install and some small changes to make it run smoothly we have success. Just need to look at the tacho output. It would be nice to use the built into tacho output as it allows a tacho...

I ordered the circuit boards today, they take about a week to be produced, so Ill be able to assemble and do some testing and tuning once Ive had a chance to assemble it. Expecting to have some more progress in 2-3 weeks.I've learnt from the SR20 one to be cautious about timelines as you dont...

Absolutely. I've got some bunch of the sr20 ones out there, and this is essentially a header swap. I am not far from being ordering the boards now so will post some updates when it's in and running. My sr20 ones sell for about 400usd

Have a look into speeduino. It's getting quite mature now. It uses the tunerstudio software just like megasquirt does and you don't have to have much specific technical knowledge to use it.

Yet to produce yet but pretty well through the circuit board production. Like the SR20 one, the UA4C module attaches on. Just going over each and every circuit now to ensure compatibility with the the Mitsubishi circuits.

So basically, I have build over the last couple of years a speeduino based ECU for the SR20 platform, using UA4C hardware and my own lower adapter board to manage the specifics of the interface to the vehicleIm currently going over the 4g63 wiring diagrams for the Evo1-3 and looking at the...

Sorry by drop in I didn't mean literally. The block will be bored to 85.5mm to suit. It's a fresh stock bore block as the old one cracked a bore.By drop in, I was meaning an off the shelf part rather than custom order.

The other option I've come across is Nitto, they are manufactured by CP-Carillo but are meant to be a step above the normal off the shelf CP.I believe the CP are all full skirt too, which I think will be a good thing. My existing JE pistons are full skirt, and haven't worn over about 15 years...

Yes, I've searched but cannot find too muchI'm rebuilding a 85.5mm 8.5:1 100mm stroker, with 150m rods and 22mm pins.I was looking at piston options. Its got JE in it now (202192) but unfortunately rings for them are NLA as its an old piston and they run thinner rings on everything now. CP...

Did you end up with the CP pistons? I'm looking at them for my rebuild this time around.

Ive got a stock bore N/A 6 bolt there now, which is going to get used. I wish I could keep it stock bore, but to do that feasibly Id have to buy a set of pistons and accept the risk that they may not fit depending on the piston to wall clearance. If the stock bore is worn at all then they could...

Bit more info for the thread.It ended up not being resolved at all. I triple checked bleeding of the system, went for a drive and within a couple minutes of starting the drive I was up to 95 deg C, but the issue really showed face after about 5 minutes driving when I just held it against the...

Update, is fixed.I checked the water pump, was mint. It's a pressed steel GMB one. I tightened the clearance between the impeller and housing by tapping it down the shaft. Should help prevent cavitation too.Radiator was sparking clean inside and no flow restrictionsI replaced the...

Working on this furtherI think there is something physically wrong. Even just idling it up to temp, it carried on and got hot, I shut it off at 100 and could hear water bubbling.I had the expansion cap off to look at the level and once approaching 100 it quickly rose before a large air...

I'm pretty sure it was a GMB, and if my memory is any good it's a pressed steel one but I might have to confirm

I came across an issue on the dyno yesterday, immediately after a run the temps would start to climb from the normal low 90's (celsius) up to around 110 if left idling, however if we held the revs up to say 2000 for a minute then the temps hardly rose.So my theory is here that there is not...

To raise a dead thread...I blew the head gasket at an event the other day, well not blown, it lifted the head enough to blow out the water and then it settled back down and resealed, no misfires and holding coolant pressure afterwards. However leading up to the issues I was seeing quite sharp...

Been a while.. sorry late replyregarding retempering heads, I am aware of a local company that can do it. However what I am not sure of is what level of distortion is likely to occur.Im certainly not going to be throwing out or destroying any heads just in case. At the moment I have the...

as long as its not affecting the clamp area of the head gasket fire ring, Id just file the imperfection away and run it as-is. it would be a fraction of a CC in terms of volume so won't affect the running of the engine at all so long as the head gasket seal is not affected.

Ive been hunting around and searching for information but havent come to anything yet.Ive got a couple of spare heads in the shed and trying to work out the differences. One of them is a G6K off a 1995 RVR turbo. Its cooked, its soft and I just use it for a jig now. The other is removed of a...

I've just ordered some parts to do a freshen up on my PAR gearbox, I've noticed 2nd gear has got crunchy even when shifting slowly. This gearbox I built a couple years ago with good condition used synchros, they had nice sharp teeth that had good clearance and grabbed my thumb pad really well...

Just got the head back from hardness testing. It came back at low 70s on the Brinell scale which is pretty poor. Ill keep looking for another casting that hopefully hasn't been hot. I know this one has been hot, but never knew how hot. It would be fine to use on something that didn't require...

Hi DSMersIm looking at building up a new cylinder head for my 4g63 mirage/colt/proton, its currently just over 600hp but the cylinder head is stock porting other than just a slight tidy up with a sanding barrel to remove casting marks.Is there any data on cylinder head hardness at all, what...

Ill have to try get a friend who had it done to send a photo. From my experience, the oil pools in the head under braking only, under acceleration its fine which is probably because there are more oil drains at the rear of the head than at the front (something they improved on with the evo 4+...

Ive been running a PAR set for a few years and a friend has had one about 5 years now. I run it in Evo3 synchro configuration and he uses it with the single piece 3/4 synchro and large diameter hub, but its an Evo hub which are forged rather than cast. Im 600hp and about 500ft.lb, he is probably...

Firstly, I don't (touch wood) have this issueI was comparing the different axles for my mirage and found that the Evo 6 axles were 1mm larger in diameter to the ones that I use on the mirage. Im doing hillclimbs and other similar events in my car which is around 600hp, it gets launched...

Yeah its interesting, but viscous couplings dont really have a 'breakaway' torque like a normal plate diff does so that technique doesn't work. I'm only applying a maximum of 20nm torque when the tool is at max leverage, but they still move, all of them, even the one which is silly tight. I...

So ive been testing a few viscous couplings that I have here for condition to see what ones are in good to run in the race car. I need a reasonably tight one to prevent the rear wheels from spinning up with it being a bit lighter at the rear and a decent amount of power.Anyway, to build your...

Ive just dismantled a UMXL gearbox, its a late model with the dot printed code number. Interesting point was that it had the forged steel 3/4 selector ring like the evo 1 had, and had teflon lined 5th gear fork. It has single cone synchros throughoutThe WMXL that I pulled apart had neither...

Update to the thread. Had a 1/4 mile sprint today. Not at a strip, just on a closed road with the local car club. I was running 265kpa, so 1.65 bar boost and temp was about 15 celsius. It seems the head gasket issues are gone, the coolant pressures remained normal and followed a curve which...

Ive just finished doing a couple of runs just against the brakes on the hoist. Promising results: ~ first three runs, basically I started once the water temp was up to thermostat temp, the engine hadn't fully heat soaked yet at that stage though. The first run was zero change in coolant...

Ok, good things to consider. Im going to go warm up the car and get it on boost to see if I have any leakage measured. Hopefully nothing like the final runs last time. If I do have leakage then I think Im going to go down the new head gasket route.

I see HKS advertise theirs as being a stopper style gasket, is OEM one like this too, or does it have a different construction?The turbo is only oil cooled, throttle body doesnt have water lines.

Interesting. Its so hard to know what head gasket is best but I am open to finding another good one. Permanent is a common and easy brand to source here in NZ, i will try to find out about if they are any good also

Neither would have I. In a previous life this block was running around 40psi on a big garret, but the owner at that stage used a o-ring style head gasket. I do want to avoid that if possible so I don't have to skim the head every time it comes off.The head was skimmed several years before I...

Hi GuysIm in the process of trying to diagnose whether I am lifting the head, or having head sealing issues on my race motor. So in short, here are some main specs ~ 100mm crank ~ 8.5:1 JE pistons ~ Mitsubishi OEM MLS gasket ~ ARP 12mm head studs ~ Galant VR4 block (same as 1G I think) ~ Evo...

dont start the engine with the clutch in is a good starting point. it puts pressure on the crank thrust while there is no oil pressure and potentially very little residual oil too. Keep pressure plates as light as possible - use twin plate rather than a heavy spring if you are making sufficient...

I have installed the Kiggly HLA regulator and result was about 50mL (or about 49/474th of a pint for those working in american units), of oil in the catch can after doing 4 runs of the autocross and a motorkhana in the morning (which I managed to get 2nd place close behind a well driven lotus 7...

The kiggly HLA regulator turned up the other day - so will install and hopefully be able to test at the end of August if work gives me the day off to go to the track. In typical fashion I will be testing multiple things at once - this as well as a new brake package haha

Im just building another rocker cover the same as this one is cracked and weeps oil. Kiggly HLA regulator is on its way and I have improved the breathing in the catch can so that it can hope with more oil instead of spitting it out after getting a cup in it. Im considering putting some external...

I had a run today with the new sump, some good some bad. The good is that oil pressure is greatly improved. there are a couple dips in the log but nothing significant. The bad is that oil in the catch can is increased a fair chunk. I think this is because there is that much more oil available to...

A couple pics of the finished product. Its on the engine now, but wont be able to fill with oil until I get the manifold back from the ceramic coaters and then turbo etc installed which is about a week away because otherwise the turbo oil drain will leak.

I've got an event on the 14th so will get more data then. Got a few jobs to do on the car but no reason that it shouldn't be ready by then

Here is a pic of what Ive done so far. Can you spot any major design faults? The trapdoors are nice and free (Ive modified the hinges to have extra clearance and not jam up). The circle you can just see is the pickup location. I am yet to build the top cover for it or weld the bottom of the sump...

Recently got my new gearbox built. Its a PAR straight cut gearset, using synchromesh engagement from Evo2/3 in an Evo3 gearbox casing. The double synchro 3/4 gears makes shifting much faster, it just slips into gear without any complaint. They rate the gearbox at 740ft.lb, and at my 500hp level...

My initial thoughts are to extend the sump and pickup, then redesign the horizontal baffle plate in a way that it promotes oil returning to below it, but discourages oil to slosh out, so perhaps a concave shape, with welded around the edges, the large hole for the pickup in the middle, but...