The tuner is the limit. People blow up built engines just as fast as stock motors if they can't tune it.

That sounds made up too.

Sounds made up

cc the chambers as well.

I meant pre turbo

I've been running the gates. Car runs cooler than it did with the oem.Hits the like button

None.

$10,499

Very nice. What intake setup is that?

OEM is fine for now. You are lucky it didn't take out the timing belt.

Zex4g63 submitted a new DSM Profile :Beater carRead more about this vehicle here...

I've spent a lot of time working with Wilson over the years. There isn't 40hp in what your doing in those pics. Altering the plenum size and runner length may find 40hp over a stocker, but a barrel drum stuck in the plenum will not. I will capture some pics of mine when I have it apart next time.

It's easier if you just cut the plenum apart and weld it back together.

I sold my JMF to fund my Evo3 manifold. My manifold cost more than two JMF manifolds. It looks stock, fits like stock, and performs better than the JMF on my setup. Manifolds are not one size fits all.

It depends on what stereo system it was optioned with. It would have a double din infinity deck. Amp would be under the pass seat and 10 disc cd changer would be in the right rear of the trunk area. 97-99 is a 10 disc changer and 95-96 are a 6 disc.

You can buy an oem one for that price.

Torque solutions makes them for a 2g. I just bought and installed them a month ago. FYI the rear mount came with the wrong bolts.

There are no numbers because the power an engine makes is based on a total package. For example, if we only swapped the head we may gain power, but a different intake manifold may lose the power gained from the head. If I was starting from scratch I would use the 2g head based on my S/S...

Auto has one. Manual doesn't.

Drive to MD a few weeks ago. 34mpg on the trip. My car has always been great on gas.

I have only had the belt squealing problem twice in the twelve years I have owned my car. Both times are due to the jay racing relocation kit cracking. Spent the afternoon moving it back to the front of the engine.

I always use breakin oil. Used Gibbs for years and lately I use Amsoil break in oil. Don't run 5W30 in these things, it's shear strength isn't up to the task. But that's my opinion and you'll get several more here.

A blown fuse under the hood will make it do that.

It's off a Mitsubishi space van. Same as Evo III manifold except the TB opening is 52mm instead of 60mm. Check the Evo III intake manifold for mor info.

I've been a tech and parts counter guy for 20 years. The box stores have ruined many good employees and it's difficult to find anyone with common sense and half a brain anymore. A lot of stores have what I like to call "warm bodies" working there. If you shop at them than find the busiest person...

Seriously? Five years later?drunk post?

I have been an ASE master tech since 1997. I have never used any guide or study material. Personally if you need to study than you shouldn't be certified. Either you know the info or you don't. Just my opinion. You don't get study for the next vehicle your service manager gives you.

700+ Hp and 9 second ET's.

I put a new oil cap on it. I drove it. I hit the rev limiter. I pegged the boost gauge. I NLTS'd it. I repeated this on several occasions thru the course of the 60 or so miles I drove today. The oil cap no longer leaks.

Your out of injector and AF ratio doesn't line up with wideband.

Mine have been in the car for year. 11,000 miles and counting.

Congrats on the win at Beav Dan!Tim

The manifold is not a limit. A fellow on link forums went 10.61 with a magnus mani then went 10.58 with an Evo III mani. The mani will not be the limiting factor.

Those cams are small. My opinion is stock size valves and bronze guides. Machine work would be about the same at an honest shop with the right equipment.

+1. Low lift is hurt due to shrouding. That's how the flowbench shows it so take it as you will.

Looks good! That AFPR with gauge will probably not fit there with the Evo III mani.

This seven year old thread should be discontinued......

I'm 37 and have been dealing with all this for years and years. I take nothing anymore. Many years ago they gave me some different prescriptions but I could not stand the side effects. So I quit taking anything and just live my life. My daughter has helped me more than anything. I think it helps...

Are these Crower or Brian Crower?

*reads my profile*:idontknow:

The OEM multilayer is not constructed like a Cometic or Felpro MLS. And is pretty damn forgiving as far block surface goes. If it were mine it would be going on.

It is screwed in correcting. It's for feeding oil to the turbo off the housing or use it for oil pressure reading.

Do you have power to the coil with the key on? A real easy mistake on 2G is to plug the AC compressor plug into the ignition coil connector. They look the same same and are located in the same area.

It needs turned or replaced. And the motor needs taken out of the car and disassembled. All that trash is thrown around the engine. And the rod on that cylinder is junk too.

You blew the alternator fuse in the fusebox under the hood.

I have both manifolds and they both have 4 vacuum ports.I also measured the volume of both of them. They are the same. As stated the Evo III has 60mm TB and RVR is 54mm. Both of mine have no EGR but there are pics of them with EGR.

Came out the dipstick is my guess. Been there, done that.

I've already traveled this path. If I could do it over the first thing I would buy is a higher stall convertor.

Found this link to stock coil output. Stealth 316 - Ignition CoilsMSD output is a little less but it looks like it would recharge faster. Not sure if that would overheat the ignition module or not. I think you need the module to wire it because the coils just have two female connections on...