First and foremost, these parts are located in Ontario, Canada. Shipping is possible for smaller items at buyers expense, but bigger stuff will need to be picked up or potentially freighted (all on you to figure out and arrange). I can ship to the US, but buyer will be responsible for any...
I just pulled a clip from my spare strakes, here are some pictures. Closest thing I could find for a Mitsubishi part number was MB344789. No idea if my clips are original, they were a pain to remove, so maybe they were. Googling that part number shows some other images with dimensions close to...
Damn, this really is a great deal. I just had a complete rebuild with a handful of upgrades through TRE earlier this year that came out to $4k USD. Had this been an option earlier this year, I absolutely would have dropped that extra thousand. I really hope this takes off, sorry I can't add one...
I saw one of your posts on Kijiji about RTM winding down. You guys are an awesome vendor. Paul and Ziggy, you have my many thanks. RTM supplied the majority of parts in my build over many years and I seriously doubt I would've stayed in the DSM rabbit hole without you guys.
Supposedly in Ontario, all fuel grades now have at least 10% ethanol, even 94. I haven't noticed 94 disappearing yet, but I used to specifically go out of my way to buy Shell 91 for the lack of ethanol. I'm considering installing a flex-fuel sensor just so I know how much ethanol is in the gas I...
I've currently got a trans getting looked at by TRE. Jon told me he doesn't necessarily like billing to Canadians because a lot of us seem to want to skirt the tax man on re-entry and he doesn't want to get caught in the crossfire by someone lying to customs. If you can manage to take the...
On an AWD (not sure about FWD), front driver axle is two pieces. The CV axle has a female section that connects to the half shaft. The half shaft has a carrier bearing which mounts to the engine block. The side closest to the carrier bearing is what connects to the female side of the CV axle.
Sorry to hear about the damage. My trans was just delivered to TRE this week, hopefully Fedex was kind to my box. Good luck in the search for a new trans. It took me months to find a core, hopefully it's not as difficult for you.
I have bought those exact powerstop callipers, front and rears, but only installed the fronts at the moment. The red is very nice and it is actually a powdercoat, there are some very small areas in corners that didn't get coated, but overall they look good. They fit just like the old oem ones.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but any chance this NPXV 5th gear cover can be identified? It has an M in the 10th VIN position so I know it's a 91. It has a 23-spline output shaft, and I think this is the long curved shifter linkage? I had to get someone else to take the pictures and they didn't...
I did read this document, thought it was very interesting. I did end up deleting my balance shafts, but still have factory bore/stroke. I ended up getting a fluidampr in the hopes that any harmonics that those balance shafts were helping with, that the fluidampr could potentially pick up some of...
I don't think I ever updated this, but it turns out the leak was coming from in between the casting of the thermostat housing and the press fit pipe that connects the hoses to the heater core. I tried to braze the area shut with aluminum brazing rod, but the thermostat housing soaked up the heat...
That is the clutch fluid accumulator, of which (on a factory setup) the top port is meant to feed directly into the clutch slave cylinder and the bottom port is fed by the flex line. It looks like yours is bypassed by feeding from the flex line straight into the clutch slave. I'm not sure how...
I bought a TRW (OMRON Copy) w/ panic button (should be MR123944) off ebay. I think all you need is the FCC ID to match and the fob will work, and in that case it was FCC ID: GQ43VT6T. Either the mitsu part number or FCC ID should be searchable and give you a result and somewhere to buy one. No...
I was going to buy bulk pins from Aliexpress and hope for the best because I couldn't find anything, but a fluke of similar images, some dimensions, and luck led to me finding the above part numbers and subsequent part diagrams/dimensions. Fortunately there seems to be no minimum order size from...
I found a source for OEM style male and female pins for the interior connectors. With pretty much all the old suppliers for pins gone, it was very difficult to track this style down. The only readily available Canadian source was Mouser, but searching the part number may yield other sellers as...
Wow, some people shouldn't own a welder. I'll probably toss the turbine housing too, but for $75, I think I made it out with a working cartridge at the very least.
Just picked this up off a junker. Don't recognize the downward firing compressor housing, no markings whatsoever except for the triangle with a zero. It has an evo 3 turbine housing, with the worst welded wastegate I've ever seen. Turbine and compressor wheel look similar to my s16g, no shaft...
Here are some 2G 7 bolt bottom end gasket kits. Not OEM, you'd likely have to piece that together yourself. RTM carries a lot of OEM gaskets. I used a Fel-Pro kit myself with some OEM gaskets here and there for areas I thought were important, but don't remember which ones I used anymore...
I was hoping you'd chime in, I always see your posts and that instills a lot of confidence in the work you do. Can I PM you for a few questions on your services?
Torque is a better descriptor for sure, I just went with HP as some of those builders "rate" their capabilities in HP and I figured it might be an easier point of entry. I'm not sure how much torque a s16g is going to make, but with my stock bottom end I'm not planning on taking it much further...
Hello all! I'm in the market for a 5 speed AWD transmission, capable of holding down ~350-450HP should I do a little more upgrading in the future. Looking at shops like TRE, TMZ, Jacks, etc. staged rebuilds are a thing of the past and most rebuild options look like they're targeting near stock...
See this thread: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/visual-guide-cargo-covers.533298/Part# MR189485I was also looking for the same clip, never did try to buy any though. Some sites say it's discontinued, others have a price. I'm hoping to find a part out or a wrecker to replace my missing clip.
Finally got my fob in the mail, first one got lost so thanks DHL, second one took less than a week to arrive. Using the 97+ method, had no issues and the fob talks to the receiver despite the FCC ID differences on each unit. Plus I managed to get a fob with the key ring bit still intact.
I haven't been able to access the site (ca.dsm.org) again for nearly a month(?) now. Downdetector says it's down for everyone, so I'm pretty sure it's not just me.
Here is the 7.01 pass (https://youtu.be/WdWBSieLLms)Here is a 7.69 pass (https://youtu.be/Wwz5DpcCy5A?t=1494)Here is a 7.25 pass (https://youtu.be/GxMZHYiDkvM?t=1496)Here is a 7.16 pass (https://youtu.be/GxMZHYiDkvM?t=2442)Here is a spin out (https://youtu.be/kgI4RS1xDiA)
This has happened to me a few different times, all at different locations. First time, I messed up the large tank seal for the fuel pump. Second time, blew out a lower injector seal. Third time, a crack in the upper portion of the fuel fill neck.This is your best bet. Go over everything you...
Try heating up the bolt, it may be loctite that it is preventing the bolt from un-torqueing. I don't recall having any issue when I pulled my balance shafts, my sprocket easily came off with a quick blip of the impact and a large open end of a wrench in the teeth "jamming" the sprocket. Be...
Welcome! Before any modification is done, maintenance is key. Timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, basically the entire timing system should be replaced unless you know (and trust) the previous owner's maintenance schedule. Maintenance is the key to any healthy build. Once all that is...
I've found a 3D printer to be incredible to have for replacing small interior pieces. Here's a tip for prototyping, you can download 3D models and 2D drawings from McMaster-Carr. For example, lets say you're prototyping something that uses a specific gear but you don't want to buy it because...
Oof, sound like the harness may have been chopped up a bunch at some point. Might explain the weird electrical interactions going on. I'd recommend posting a build thread or update your profile to include all the mods that you're aware have been done, that way you won't have people like me...
I missed the part in your earlier post about the gauge cluster lights staying on. Something else is going on that is causing a problem if removing the fuel pump module is the only way to turn off the cluster lights. Tracing back both wiring diagrams leads back to the ignition switch as the power...
On the ignition switch, check for continuity between Pin 1 (White) and Pin 2 (Black/White-Stripe) with the key in the off. If you have continuity, something in the switch is likely shorted and will need to be replaced.
If I'm reading the wiring diagram right and tracing back correctly, if the ignition is off and you're still getting 12v out of the relay (Pin 1, Black/Red-Stripe), that would indicate something wrong prior to that relay as the relay only has one source of 12v, the ignition switch, so maybe a...
If you go with oem, you can always upgrade at a later date should you deem it necessary. I will say on a 2g (not sure about the dimensions on a 1g), it's a bit of a pain in the ass installing a fluidampr because of how close the engine and the frame rails are. I always have to undo the driver...
I'm under 300hp, maybe at 250hp? I've got pretty much a factory rebuild except with a small 16g and BSE. I was worried about the BSE maybe introducing some new harmonics that were outside of the range the oem damper was tuned for. Whether or not a BSE does introduce new harmonics is not...
If the motor is in the car and on the ground, put the car in gear and your crankshaft should be "locked" in place. If the motor is out of the car, you'll either need the oem tool (MD998781) or fabricate something similar to hold either the flywheel or crankshaft from turning. I just copied the...
I tend to do that a lot. I imagine that if the FCC ID mismatch between OEM fob and OEM receiver was actually a problem, I wouldn't be the first person to notice, especially 20+ years down the line. I'll go ahead and buy an OEM fob and update this thread with the end result.