So today I'm replacing the gaskets on my valve cover, and when I put the damn thing back on it cracked. Does anybody know where to find an OEM valve cover? All I can find are powder coated ones that are expensive.
My stock bushings had worked themselves out of the trailing arms causing my camber to change drastically whenever the suspension compressed, so for me they made an enormous difference.
I got their rear toe eliminator kit about two months ago. At that point in time it was the last one in stock...... Maybe they still haven't gotten anymore in stock?
Constructing some ducting out of sheet metal to direct the air from the FMIC into the radiator will help out.
A switch to let you turn on your fans always in traffic will help also, once you get them working again.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/2gcoolingfan.html
You could still probably get a decent tune with the TMO and MAF-T alone. If your MAF-T is in blowhtrough config. you will probably have some wierd airflow metering, and that can be difficult to tune out without the Link. I see you have a direct port 150 shot, so the Link will give you a nice...
I recently switched from a 255 to a 255HP, both rewired. The HP is much quieter than the regular 255 was, but the 255 was on its way out so that might have affected how loud it was.
Sacrament is absolutely bad ass. Right up there with everything else they have done. Have had it in my car for the last few days solid now. Just never gets old.
The 90's have a tach adapter on the coilpack. It is the yellow wire on the coilpack harness. I would check that wire for a signial to see if the tach adapter is bad.
Count me in as number 3! I am planning on heading up from northern New Mexico for this event with my GSX. I finally got my cooling under control enough to justify trying one of these events.
I wouldn't say everyone... Some will be higher, some will be lower. It is really setup and tune dependant. Factors such as timing advance, AFR, turbo efficiency, IC efficiency, etc. will all impact the actual horsepower. That is why it is really just a rough estimate.
I just realized something though... The equation is AFR=9+(2 * V)..... So now that I think about it, 5v should technically be 19.0AFR and not 20.0AFR. 19=9+(2 * 5)... And Tech Edge seems to agree with me.
1.) You only need to hook up 1 of the wires. Yellow is analog out 1, brown is analog out 2. Pick ONE of those, and program it exactly like you stated. Presto:thumb:2.) You do not need re-free air calibrate if you have already done it once.3.) You cannot program the equation. Just...
That is great for you. But what makes you think his car will behave like yours and not like the ones that span the whole rich to lean spectrum on the same voltage?.A safe thing to do would be to not even bother with this, because it is shooting in the dark.Guesses lead to blown...
Read through this link... The last little paragraph and the pic of the DSMLink log especially. AFR ranges from 10:1-13:1 while the O2 voltage stays right at .98V on a 2g....http://www.posracing.net/AFR.html
Why don't you just strap an 8" exhaust on your single turbo...? Or how bout no exhaust for unlimited airflow? ROFL ROFLGood luck with this.... I'm sure Shep's record will be in jeapordy when you are finished.LOLGood luck spooling a GT3076R before 8,000 RPM with half the exhaust pulses.
In all honesty, I would just go with option two. A good exhaust shop should be able to weld another bung in your exhaust with the downpipe and exhaust on the car. The narrowband simulation on widebands isn't stellar anyway.
I shipped a car from Washington to New Mexico last Oct. I recommend using a PRIVATE service. I had my car shipped by itself in a covered car carrier. No dents, no scrapes, car showed up without any problems.... And the guy drove it from Washington to New Mex in one night.
Yes, but when that happens you should also be running extremely rich. I was also maxing my injectors out at ridiculously low airflow due to the MAFT, but I was also running 9.0:1 AFR's at the time. He is running 11.5:1 AFR's. That means he is definitely maxing his injectors, or his fuel pump...
You don't need the sensor to be in the DP at all. I have my bung mounted fairly far back in the exhaust. The only problem is if you have any exhaust leaks before the sensor, it will affect the reading.
You can get them on ebay, at junk yards, dealerships... There are lots of places. Once you have it, you run the output into either the EGR-T or Barometer input on the ECU. In DSMLink you add whatever GM3BAR you end up with to the captured values, and then DSMLink will log it with everything else.
Leaving the sensor in the DP unpowered will fry it. If you leave it in the DP, make sure it has power when ever the car is running.From the ZT2 instructions:
It's not the MAFs that read unpredictably - it is the translator.ROFL And they only read off in blowthrough config, they are pretty much exact in drawthrough. I have been through several GM MAF's, and I have never had to adjust my airflow settings after the initial calibration. When I went...
Call up NOS and ask them.Or you can use this calculator:http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/installation_instructions/jet_calculator/nitrousjetcalc.asp
Yea, I assumed a base FP of 43.5. What FP is the car actually running?Also, it seems to me like a car flowing 65+ lb/min of air should be going WAY faster than 128mph
Something does not add up here. Crunching your AFR and IDC numbers to back out actual aiflow, I come up with 68.9lb/min.In the log, you are running 94.4% duty cycle @ 11.5:1 AFR @ 7584 RPM in 4th gear.Your profile says 950cc injectors.... SO:Assuming a SG of .76 (for pump gas), a...