Finally...after what felt like an eternity of adjustments and frustration for something so simple, my RM rear sway bar finally lines up perfectly and no longer repeatedly hits my control arms. A couple test drives over speed bumps and crappy roads to confirm that there's no more contact.I...
It's my lower piping that fits like crap...I had to source a 60 degree coupler and t-bolt clamps because the lower pipe is horribly misaligned compared with the upper.
Any chance the fabricator would be making piping for the intercooler? I bought a Hahn SMIC from here some time ago but the Punishment Racing/CX Racing piping fits like crap. Would definitely pay for properly fitting SMIC piping.
I've also ordered several items from RTM here in the states and have been impressed with the speed of delivery. Thanks Ziggy and Paul as I've been able to source some harder to find items at RTM.
I really like the setup...it doesn't necessarily feel like it will plant your face into the windshield, however, the brakes are quite strong and stopping power is greatly improved over stock.
I also moved the boost gauge to the center vent area. With the gauge and BCS wires, it was too much to try and fit through the weather stripping on the side mirror pod. I'll save that one for a different gauge.
Update 8/1/2020:I've been following the 2021 Ford Bronco for a while now and when Ford finally allowed for reservations, I put in for a Black Diamonds edition. The V6 TT is a must have for me (bucket list item...never owned one)and it will only come paired to an automatic. Long story short, I...
You're putting in a lot of work on your build--looking forward to yours as well.The Hahn SMIC and the B&M short throw I got from here by constantly checking the For Sale section.
You should try coilovers that have spherical bearings; you can custom order spherical bearings for bc coilovers on RTM website. Otherwise Feal, custom DG built coilovers or pressing a spherical into other coilovers such as kw.
"Minor" Update 6/17/2020:Volk trailing arms were installed a few weeks back. Checked the torque on the rear lca's and put a fresh coat of oil on both arms. I had to reuse the nuts on the knuckle side, as I could not locate new stock ones:Driver side trailing arm behind the lower control...
So this "issue" was originally present with the stock rear lca's and end links. It appears as though the sway bar isn't quite long enough to attach to the links with pulling one side. So any amount of suspension travel causes the bar to contact the lower control arms. Even with the Volk arms the...
You could have semi-upgraded and gotten Outlander brackets; they are a direct fit and allow you to put on the larger Outlander rotors on the front.Also, gotta commend you for working in the Texas heat. I've been rather lazy just because it's brutally hot in the garage.
I think some people use Nord lock washers. I've re-torqued my bolts several times when hot and cold after install and haven't had any issues with them coming loose,
When I put on new rotors a little over a year ago, I kept wondering what the threaded hole was for...looked it up and found out (just like you did) that is for threading a bolt into to pop the rotor off the hub. Definitely made it easier than pulling the knuckle, prying or hammering. It helps to...
Thanks! I'm probably going to stay within a "stockish" build. Finish up the suspension, get the calipers powdercoated and do something about the eyesore that is my exhaust (it's the only part with bad rust). I may postpone the T28 install until I decide to go with link or tactrix but the support...
I honestly never thought these cars would look great on anything smaller than 18's because of the massive wheel wells. But the RPF01's look great. How far down did you lower the Feals?I've got the Volk rear lca and trailing arms installed. Definitely top notch stuff!
Terrible. Even if you do finally get the vehicle, if you're not going to turn wrenches, I'd suggest having a person or shop you know and trust to look it over.
I'm okay with black anodized and payment up front.I'm assuming longer bolts than the ones for the OEM bracket are needed? The brackets appear thicker than the OEM ones.
Not having an actual boost gauge always bothers me so I picked up an AEM Tru-boost. Fabricated a bracket and used existing bolt holes next to the intake to test fit the solenoid. I’ll probably flip the solenoid around but I’m happy with the location and mock up.
Yup, it's pretty straightforward...if you're running a braided flexible line from the OFH to feed the turbo you will have to be careful of the line with the fan. I ziptied my line to avoid the blades, but if you still have the OEM oil feed line you probably won't have to worry about it.
I’m currently running a Mishimoto radiator with stock fans and no fitment issues. Didn’t have to trim the shroud. Had this setup for about 18 months so far.
Update 5/6/2020:Ever since installing the RM rear sway bar, I've had issues with the bar physically hitting the rear lower control arms (with the car in motion). Not sure if anyone else had this issue and it's a little difficult to see via pics but this is what I had been dealing with for...
I had a similar situation just that I'm using a Hahn SMIC with CX racing intercooler piping...the piping from the intercooler to the air filter area did not line up properly with the piping from the air filter/fuse box region, so the straight coupling did not work for connecting the two. I ended...
Posted a few more photos in the photo section.Minor update: the old tires got tossed in favor of General g-max rsNew tires, new brakes, and a thicker rear sway bar..might have to give the dsm a spin at autocrossing.
Thanks! The car is in good shape is it was never driven in the winter and almost never driven in the rain before I picked it up. I'll be sure to give the car a good bath this weekend (she's pretty dusty from sitting in the garage all winter) and get some more pics up. The rear muffler is indeed...
My stock rear sway bar and end links have seen better days:I keep all (or most I should say) stock parts so I'll clean up the RSB and have powdercoated and then store it with the other stock parts. I got in on the group buy for a new RM RSB:The brackets were pretty filthy so I soaked them...
My brakes always felt a little squishy and I originally had purchased new rotors and pads but my calipers were looking pretty crappy:
I considered rebuilding them but I didn't have access to compressed air so I just purchased remanufactured calipers all around. With new calipers in hand, I...
So I'm considering ECMlink as I've read many threads stating that it is beneficial (even for a stock vehicle) in terms of a diagnostic tool. I've seen some posts indicating that for a '98 vehicle you have to swap plug wires and some posts saying and click "invert CAS", some posts saying you just...
I have a stock 98 TSi and I just put it back together after porting the O2 housing, a Hahn side mount intercooler and hard piping. There's no drivability issue whatsoever.You're more likely to have a drivability issue if you forget to recirculate your BOV.
While putting everything back together, I found the stock oil feed line to be a hug PITA. It snapped while trying to line up so I picked up a flexible feed line with 0.075" restrictor. The only thing that proved to be a bigger pain than the oil feed line was the connection into the OFH. I tried...
Seen a lot of awesome builds going on here so I figured I would at least update mine! Not really much of a build as I acquired the car with less than 50k mileage and bone stock. With it being 20+ years old, a black box ecu and in excellent shape, I figured I would keep it pretty mild.Over the...
There was a thread posted a few years back showing that both the 1g and 2g have a 0.07" restrictor in the lines from the factory..on the 1g it's inside the banjo bolt and on the 2g it is coming off the OFH.
I pulled my T25 about two weeks ago and I still have coolant lines attached, so I'll try to help you out:1. Oil drain
2. Coolant line
3. Based on how you have the unit rotated in the pic, this looks like the other coolant line
4. Oil feed
6. You'll have to remove the fitting from the T25 but...