So there is an O2 sensor screwed in to a bung in the down pie but it is before the cat. I am thinking the same as you that I am in need of another sensor post Cat so that the ECU can measure airflow before and after.

Correct, the smog tech checked the readiness and did the tail pipe test. At the time I passed both. Now, because of the Dyno tune and battery disconnect, I am showing incomplete statuses on the EGR and Catalyst monitors so in about a year when I need a new smog I don't think I would pass...

It is my understanding that I cannot change the readiness monitors to "complete" via DSMLInk myself??? I did read that only the dealer can do this after charging a fee, then the car must stay on, etc. I am not looking to pay that high fee every time and I am hoping there is a way to get them...

I believe my car to have a 95 ECU. When I removed it it is in a metal casing rather than a plastic one and it has the DSMLink chip installed.Okay so you believe that the various emission components need to be in the car to get OBD2 completeness? That is a problem since the EGR has been...

Thread revival!!!!!! :beatentodeath::beatentodeath::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah:First, let me say like so many others have that this is an awesome thread with wonderful information!!!!!! Because all of the contributors to this thread, I understand much more about my car and the emission...

Thank you for the additional input. The fans are set up as Push fans based on the mounting position and the wire the fan itself notes is the (+). If you reverse it becomes a pull fan. It seems to flow well but oem fan does move more air. I didn't realize the oem thermostat wasn't fully open...

Since my car does not have AC I wired up one aftermarket "push" fan to the AC condenser wiring so it will kick on when I hit the AC button. I do not have clearance to mount as a "pull" set up on the driver side. I retained the stock rad fan for now and removed the push fan in front of it on...

Thank you both for your input!

They do and seem to push a lot of air through the radiator into the engine bay. In measuring out the clearance though I don't think I got do a puller setup on the driver side. The J pipe might be an issue and the car as a large tial wastegate and an external O2 dump that look to give clearance...

They would fit. The j pipe is a bit close. I would just need to find new ties to secure them.

Oh okay i am missing that fan but i see the connector loose on the drivers side of the engine bay. The wire colors match up with what you note it your first post.I would think that I would like both fans to kick on to cool the motor.do you have any take on whether "push" or "pull" is...

Wow, I hadn't thought of that.Pardon my ignorance, but what is the condenser fan? My car only has one stock fan mounted to the radiator? Also, since the two aftermarket fans are "pushers" I was told pushing air is less efficient so I assumed I should keep the one stock fan "puling" air?

Admittedly I inherited this problem with the slim fans (set up to be pushers mounted to the front of the radiator) on my car as they were installed before I bought it. Problem is I don’t think they ever worked and I hadn’t driven the car in stop and go traffic before so I hadn’t noticed any...

Awesome! I will look for this tonight!

All, I am not finding any threads with pictures of where the VSS is or how to remove it from the car. I have found threads pointing to it as a cause for speedo issues and threads describing what it is and the general area where it is located. One thread references a 10 mm bolt but I am not...

Moderators - this question/thread has been resolved. Thanks.

Very good, thank you for the input. I didn't realize the same mechanical unit was used even in the newer evo's since the description only mentioned EVO 1-3. I just ordered it - will give it a shot! Thanks.

Thank you that's what I thought. One last question, this looks to be diff gears from an EVO 8 and is shipped from the US. I want to make sure this wouldn't work for me because it is "just" the gears and not the complete LSD to be dropped into my existing 2g open differential housing. Thank...

It looks like the same seller is also selling a "semi lock" evo rear diff. I thought all LSDs were semi lock. Would either you pick up this one over the "full lock" given the price? I thought a semi lock was what I should originally be looking for...

Thank you. This is more what I was expecting the price difference would be. Thank you

First, my 97 GSX is one of the few that has an open rear differential and not the Viscous LSD.Next, I have been researching LSDs for the last 2 weeks, reading all of the tech articles on here, watching videothe EVO LSD swap threads, threads on the Quaife, the Kaaz, etc. I know how they...

I found the problem! Both switches seem to connect to a relay mounted near the driver side seat belt. I think the connector wasn't plugged in all of the way. I unconnected everything and plugged both back in and no more battery draw!This tread is resolved!

Awesome! Thank you. I am going to try to trace the red/green wires tomorrow. It is crazy though that it started happening suddenly. i did the little test light trick to test for a draw once I got the short to ground fixed and no light. Thank you for your help.

Okay thank you for the reply. So the switch, when engaged/pushed in/doors shut actually un-grounds/opens the circuit so that the lights turn off? And when the door opens and the switch is open the circuit is completed and the lights are on?For some reason I thought it was the opposite and...

All, I am hoping for some help! I have been at this for two days straight and still have no solution. I bought my GSX originally with a short to ground that was blowing the ignition fuse. It was the noise capacitor, removed it, car started & ran, and had no parasitic draw originally (I tested...

Thank you, the ground wire down by the starter was almost cut in half because it was frayed so bad. Got a new battery also to be safe. Car started up!

Also forgot to mention that none of the lights turn on when the doors are open, no beeping when the key is left in the ignition, nothing.

So thanks to luv2rallye and asexton6969 I got the 30amp ignition short problem solved last weekend on my newly purchased 97 GSX. Once fixed the car started right up and ran great so far this week. I am working on all of the maintenance for the car and trying to get set up with DSMLink on my...

SHE IS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you both again!!!!:hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah:

I owe such an apology to you two gents! You both spent a lot of time on this to try and help me when it was something so simple that I overlooked!!!!

I was looking on the left side of the intake manifold becasue I believe one of the early posted said that is where it was (my left or your left hahahahaha)This noise thingy is on the right. I just looked for it. OMGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!! This little bugger was broken off!!!!!!!! I just...

I did disconnect all relays under the hood in the engine fuse box. I will check tomorrow to be sure one of those is the fuel pump relay. I will do the other suggestions too but I looked on the left side of the intake manifold and I don't think my car has the noise filter thing.

Okay couldn't wait - went and tested with a flashlight. :)The B+ side fuse terminal and battery itself measured just over 12V like it should. With the test light on the outgoing fuse terminal (going towards the ignition switch) measured just 0.50V (I assume because the test light itself is...

Oh shoot :ohdamn:. I though cars were AC and houses were DC? Cars have an alternator so I though "alternating current?" This shows how absolutely green I am with electrical. I will re-test tomorrow. I ran out of day light.

Thank you for your input! I traced both the red/black and the white/black as far back up under the dash as I could (until it goes into the OEM wire sheath and eventually through the firewall. I did not see any splicing or indication that the wires have been tampered with.

shoot okay so the fact that the red/black triggers the test light to come on doesn't help much since I was simulating "Start." It seems the white/black triggering the test light is also no help. If both of those are dedicated to "Start" I wonder why none of the blue wires made the light come...

Based on what you say here I should only have three outgoing wires (black/white, blue/black, and all blue).I also have a red/black....I wonder if this is supposed to be connected to the ignition switch? However, both the black/white and red/black cause the test light to come on when...

Okay!!!!!! Narrowing down this further!!! I did the test wire procedure linking the main white power wire to the four outgoing wires one at a time and two of the four wires are causing my test light to turn on bright. These two wires are the red with black stripe and the back and white stripe...

I just pulled all 10 relays under the hood and the two in the interior fuse panel and no luck. Test light still full brightness.

Here is something interesting:With the car on ACC when I run the windshield wipers the test light replacing the 30A ignition fuse does light up but dim. Is this normal? Does this indicate a short in the wipers some where that might be causing my problem?When the ignition is switched to ON...

Thank you, I will try and pull these next.

Sorry, I was referring to the actual car headlights but that is irrelevant.

Thank you so this narrows it down a bit further I think.

I have not pulled any relays. I will try this but to be honest I am not sure where or what relays look like?

Okay short is definitely AFTER the ignition switch since the light turns off when the switch is unplugged. So this narrows it to the blue and blue/black wires?

Okay so I know that power on ACC is getting to the interior fuse box. All things that should be powered by ACC show current like the heater, defogger, door locks, etc. The items I believe to be powered by the "ON" position like the sunroof, back up lights, and turn signals have no power. I...

No I am not comfortable de-pinning just yet but my test light is a 55w headlight so it should be pushing about 4-5 amps of current through the system and a do have a clamp style multimeter. I will see if I can get a AC voltage reading. By "Run" I assume you mean the key to the "On" position...

This set of wires connects directly into the back of the ignition switch. With this set of wires unplugged the headlight still turn on when the key is put to "ACC." When turned to "ON" with this unplugged the test light does NOT turn on and nothing powers on (I believe because I have...

Correct, ACC the fuse doesn't blow. headlights and radio work on ACC. The fuse also blows with every other fuse removed from the car. As soon as it goes to "ON" it blows. I don't know about "START" since it blow on "ON" before start.The more I am working with this the more I have a...