Welp the ECU has been to ECMLink and back in the most recent 3 years, so I assume it OK. Seems to only lose power after high boost and spark cannot keep up with fuel/air mix? Wonder if ECU is telling car to "Shut down power" somehow at that point?? Also you need to let it sit for bit before...
I'm thinking my car's ECU is shutting off because at mid pull (around 6600 rpm) it will stop logging on ECMLink and it will cut spark for sure, maybe fuel and other things controlled by the ECU too, if it is the ECU. After this happens it will run very lean around 17 AFR until I'm able to pull...
Ahhhaa.. Maybe a false high reading from temp sensor being in wrong location? That was my initial thoughts. Will dig deeper. If you find that link send it away.Thanks again ThunderLips!!
Yep too bad it cost 400 bucks to ship. JD Hyguard tranny fluid, big ass cooler that must work pretty well, as you can watch the temps go down when in 3rd. Temp sensor right next to line output on tranny.
Thing is, this new rebuilt tranny by a top auto trans company Metro.. it has like 10 miles on it. But those are things to check for sure. Thanks for the advice.
Searching for help & advice on trying to determine and figger out why my new Metro rebuilt 1ga tranny, running JB Designs internals and precision converter, gets hot in 1,2 and 4th gears but will cool down quickly in 3rd, all just driving around normal like super low boost? Any help is greatly...
OK gonna get some new valves, casue the 20 old heads I have are unknown origin and questionable??????? So should I lap the valve seats in the head with the old valves or use the new ones. I think I know the answer... but, really wtf do I know? ; )
This build is into it's forth year and thousands of hours in mech time with only a handfull of kills DAMMIT! : )Whats the problem and description?Our 1g streetable 5sp to auto converted grudge race drag car, still has a bunch of JNZ parts on it, including the jmf race mani, Kelford 280s...