Its been a while! Took the 1G out of storage last weekend, and a few day later we get hit by a ice storm. Plus bonus pics of my actual build :)

Nice find! Have fun playing with it !!

I build it with leftover 3" pipe from my last 2G exhaust build. It had a cheap universal yokana 12" resonator paired with a Dynomax super turbo #17744. And i used a high flow 3" yonaka catalytic converter.It made a cheap and good sounding exhaust. Quiet without any drone. Im getting old XD...

On ebay from a "Hoosierdecal", but i just check is store and there is nothing on sale right now. Maybe you can contact hm. Was like 14$ for the entire set (side and back)

Hey..! i do not know where to start... Been a long time from my last visit on DSMTuners..! Crazy year.. new project.. lot of stuff happen.So the 1G was done late last summer, and i forgot to upload at least the last photos. It is running like a charm, no issue at all. I'm really proud of that...

haha you are right sorry i miss that one LOL i'll take a look tomorrow thx !

yeah i know for airflowperrev, didnt touch it for now, im figuring out the fuel issue first. No boost leak and map looking good.

Thx for the input, i'll look for an aftermarket fpr. Have been running on stock fpr on my 2g without an issue with a 255. Didnt know there was a difference betwen 1g and 2g fpr.

Hey guys, finally had time to start messing with link and my rebuild engine.This is not my first time with link (did my 2G few years ago) but im feeling kinda rusty. Im having some issues and would like yo have some of your input.Engine is a stock rebuild Stock everything beside SD...

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/externalsensorinput

what wb do you have? On ecmlink website it state that EGR input is a no go with AEM WB. Dont know if its the old version only.. i have the new X-series 30-0300. Thats why i was looking to log WB to Baro if the input is OK for WB

Hey guys, im looking to install my SD sensors + WB on my 1G. Im use to 2G but now with my 1G, there is not a lot of input available.i'll be using pin8(MAF) for IAT, pin15 (EGR) for MAP and i would like to retain my stock O2 sensor if possible. Can i log WB signal with the BARO input (pin16)?Thx!

Update! -relocated the overflow tank under the fender (need space for fmic piping) -Find a power steering cooler at the junkyard. nice piece of machined aluminum -Finally had time to build the exhaust -First time sketching something in 3D, i draw a gauge holder for the center vent. Had a...

You can use some trim masking tape. It is use for that, goes under the molding and fold back to expose the underside when you have to paint under. In my case, on my 1g, the rubber molding was barely glued. I was able to slide it out by the side without damaging it. There is a "U" shape that goes...

Here is some update on my build.Found out that my 14B was dead.. like really dead! By chance i found an other one. I do not plan to use my 20g for now, i'll stick to the OEM 14b.Before putting back the turbo, i found that my FMIC was not working with the stock location alternator and i...

thx for the advice, i'll do that!

Engine is back in! Yeah!

Welding a roof skin is the way to go, i did this job few time on different car. But it was the opposite, i was installing roof skin with sunroof :sneaky: As for the dome light /etc, stick with oem parts from the non-sunroof car. You shoud gain some headroom, im 6'5" on my 2G without sunroof i...

Yeah right now with the worn out tire, there is so much sidewall, it is looking weird. I think i'll look for a set of 16" or 17" wheel.As for suspension components, everything is new, it should handle well :)

Hey guys,On my 1G i have a set of lightweight 15" wheel. bought the car as a roller shell and tire a shot.As i need a new set of tire, should i stay with the 15" wheel (if so, what size of tire), or should i go back with oem size (16") or if there is any benefit for 17" wheel.I do not plan...

Engine is done!Final picture will be in the next post but as now, intake and exhaust mani are on. Paint is drying on the valve cover + im waiting next weekend to pick up a cam cover and spark plug cover.By the time i clean/paint/rebuild the TB, i was looking to keep most oem stuff buf...

Haha you are right

I bought last year an Everlast Tig, its a good quality chinese brand. Cheaper than Miller/Lincoln (im not welding for a living) and it as been super good for all my DIY project on my previous 2G build. https://www.everlastgenerators.com/product/tig-stick/powertig-185dv

Nothing crazy on power. Something fun to drive without risking damagin the trans. i'll think about it. I already got a FMIC, but the idea of building a custom big SMIC is teasing me :)

Im finally in the engine rebuild. Block is done, head is out to the machine shop. By the time head come back, i'll clean the valve.I still dont know what to do next.... with all the piping and intercooler. Should i keep everything original ? or FMIC/Hard pipe + SD? Part of me would like the...

I'll be running stock boost now but i do have link and a 20G sitting on the shelf staring at me :shhh:Just finished to gap my ring, went with 0.020 top and leaved the bottom at 0.023. It should be fine!

Found on the forum that a lot have been running more like 0.021 top ring gap and 0.024 second ring. Should i follow the repair manual or not? right now, without any gapping on my brand new NPR ring, i have 0.012 top and 0.023 bottom.Thx!

As i'm about to start my engine rebuild, i was looking at the repair manual and i saw different specs for the piston ring gap size.You can take a look herePage 9-15 (Engine specification) and page 9-128 (Piston and Con rod)I'm a bit confused WTF

when i replaced my clutch with a new ACT, everything was fine at the first test drive. Then, the day later, clutch wasnt engaging. Found out i needed to adjust the master cylinder shaft under the dash. Few turn and everything was perfect. You should take a look as this.

Any type of rubbing with discolor the plastic/rubber. think of re spraying it with SEM trim black after.As for taking off the paint, you can gently scrape (at 90° with a razor blade) and finish it with a rag with a bit of paint thinner. Be sure to protect the panel/paint next to it.

@97eglDid some test, with everything clean, the bearing hold well in the rod/cap. Nothing loose it hold like a new bearing would. I tryed some P1500 paper with engine oil and gently rub one cap. It really look like oil stain. Paper got instantly black and cap shine again.Here is some pics

Thx everyone, yeah i will contact my machine shop

Bearing was still on crank, stick with the oil film. Surface is smooth without any scores. Had someone told me that can be oil stain. No sign of heat (blueish color) or anything like that. Im waiting for my micrometer kit to measure ID. I dont know if i can gently rub the surface with a...

Im tearing down my engine for a rebuild, notice some discoloration on the rod journal.No hot spot/blueish tint and surface is smooth with like a cross hatch pattern. I'll measure everything but i'll like your input. Crank look super clean. I do not know the condition of the engine prior to...

Hey guys, what are you using to clean old gasket from the mating surface. On both head (aluminum) and block.Is the scrotch brite wheel to corse? My last engine build was like a decade ago, maybe i miss some new tools for the job!Thx

What a beatiful weekend we had here in Quebec (Canada). We had snow the last couple week and now +20°C (60°F).Trans & t-case are both done, got the engine out for a quick wash while i was washing both dailys.Now time for the engine rebuild!

Yeah mine is broke inside the sensor, so i dont think it will be salvageable.Let me know if your willing to ship me one, maybe shipping cost will kill the deal, idk. or i'll do my own research. Im not in a hurry.

No shipping to canada :mad:

Update!The car is back as a rolling shell! yeah!Everything is on with new bushing/balljoint/tie rid/link kit/brake/lines/etc.Im now cleaning & inspecting the tranny. Rear diff is already done, i'll do the transfer case after. And then... Engine time! i cant wait to clean the garage (now...

mine was shot, so i used some rubber hose the same diameter and run it from the top of the fuel neck to the tank. passing thru the frame rail like the steel one.

Do you have some tips for a quick transmission inspection (1G AWD). "Suppose" to came from a good running engine/car.For the ones following my build thread, its the tranny from the rotten 1ga i bought a year ago. Never saw it run. I still have some work to do before touching the tranny, but...

It's a classic basecoat/clearcoat, so it should not cost more than other BC/CC paint.Look with you local paint store with the color code ( Lexus 8Y0 ).

When i tore down all my suspension arm/subframe/brake on my 1g and everything was coated with antiseize. Thanks god last owner was a mechanic teacher in a school. Not even a broken bolt!! (did the same thing on my 2g and i broke so much seized bolt -_-)

Didnt plan to drop the fuel tank but thank god i did it lol. Wtf is that rotting mouse nest.+ i did my brake/fuel line, first try with nickel copper lines and this was so easy to bend. I'll never go back to steel. While having the fuel tank out, i did clean and paint the tank and the fuel pump...

All the interior is done + rear body part too. Front bumper/lamps/accessory will wait at the end (after the engine). All of the damn key cylinder was seized up. had to play to the locksmith. First try at this and everything thing went perfect. thx to a write-up on the forum.Now im rebuilding...

Clean looking engine bay, well worth it!

Finally had time to paint the car with this 3 day weekend. Cant wait to put everything together.

Had this plastic on my 91 latch but not in my 94. Seem to work fine with or without it

Some touch of red and black ! i'll do all the interior part, put everything on, than tow the car to my friend bodyshop to use is paint booth to paint the exterior. Stay tune...!!

Had a surprise under the right rocker molding, some rust was hiding there. Not a big deal, made a patch panel (+cut rust and weld) and voila. Both rear quarter panel and roof top are on primer. Moving on doors, front fenders and hood.