Status UpdateTested voltage from ignition to starter relay Showed a strong 12.6v (Blue w/red)Tested Voltage from relay to starter showed 12.6v at connector (after relay side) and 11.2v at starter signal endDe pinned relay connector and ran a new wire from relay to starter....Problem...

I forgot to mention I’ve been over the grounds also even re did the bellhousing one to make sure Also added a few to see if any improvements but noneI think it’s leading back to to signal wire not sending enough currentI’ll go over that wire tomorrow and updateThanks for everyone’s...

Sound good thanks I beleive it’s the blue w/red stripe that feeds the starter signal It should run from the ignition switch to the relay then from the relay to the starter solenoid correct?

Which wires do you refer to? The signal wire from the ignition switch is the only wire I could think of being a possibility???

Some body help me out here, I’m really scratching my head in this one...2g eclipseWhen I go to start the car sometimes cranks perfectly and a lot of the time not! It’ll turn so slow at times it’s as if the battery is stone dead Usually simply let off the key and try again and it'll start...

I’m aware lol but thanks Was just the pic (before selecting size)

Scratch that Found at RTMThanks everyone!

Do you have a pic of that installed? Thanks btw it’s exactly what I was hoping to find out would work but still can’t find one anywhere

Having a slight issue getting my fitting and adapter to clear the timing cover Is there a way around actually cutting the cover? I’d rather not have to go that route Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks!

My apologies didn’t notice lol

If putting a block of wood directly on the pan worries you (many successfully have). You can always put it right where the bellhousing mates to the engine and that’s a rock solid support point!

If it’s a stock 97 ecu then it definitely is not a eprom ecu nor is it programmable

Just get the appropriate heli coil as you stated and you will be just fine No pulling of the head and a damp qtip will work fine to get any of the debris out

Sound like a bad master to be honest It’s not allowing the back flow of fluid and creating a hydraulic lockup If the master is new I would try replacing it (warranty) and bench bleed it well before installing it Also refer to the video that Kevin posted for a good understanding of proper...

95 and 96 are the same 97-99 are different

Have you checked your blower motor resistor? That’s usually the problem!

Does the other fan do the same thing if wires the same? If so your wiring is reversed If not... You have a bad fan!

22 vac

To be honest I’d be pulling that clutch again and going over everything from A-Z You can check everything out at that pointYes yes another 4 hours of time lost but lots of money saved if you find your problem before you cause any damage!Plus it’s personal time you get to spend with her...

Pushes or “applies pressure”... Yes it would apply force but not physically move the crank!I honestly doubt you’re dealing with crankwalk here Seems to me like something just isn’t sitting right!

My suggestion if trying to keep it cheap Get something to sand the area with Sand down the rust Light coats of rust converter Light sanding again to smooth out And hit with a spray can of colour matched touch upNever to be seen again

You purchased a sensor or aftermarket op gauge and sensor? You can remove the factory sensor and simply put the new sensor in and connect your gauge without problemsMake sure to pin ecu also if logging

I could be mistaken on the pressure plate Trying to remember lol I literally just put my act in last Saturday along with my sheptrans and for the life of me cannot remember the plate spec lolOne thing is for sure the TOB is very critical to be of oe quality if not oem in itself Did you...

I just placed an order with them last night around 10:30pm and had the tracking number emailed to me by noon today! They’re fastThey even shipped my items faster (by courier instead of post as I had opted for) at no additional costAwesome guys at RTM

Why keep adding undercoating If it’s never going to see winter then I’d just leave it be Less crud to work with when you need to!But if you feel you must.... krown would be the way to go but I don’t see why you’d have to do every year I’m sure skipping a year or two would be okay since their...

You can get a manifold spacer and select a bit longer for new studs (add spacer thickness to existing studs) most auto parts stores can accommodate for those And you’ll be just fineLast thing you’d want to do is damage the integrity of that turbo housing or our heroic blocks by shaving away at it

Also if you wanted to you could run HID’s in there Most aftermarket HID kits come with 35w ballasts So your current draw would be exact!

Nice horns for sure but I’d like to add a horn is nowhere near as effective as a good blast from a nice BOV to get their attention lol

So you only hear the noise when the clutch is engaged? In neutral also? What did you use for a clutch? What did you use for a tob? Did you put locktight on the flywheel bolts? Torque specs should have been 98ft lbs on flywheel and I think... 28 on pressure plate

It would be impossible to say how long that will last Sounds like something shifted Was everything torqued appropriately? Locktight on flywheel bolts? Tightened in a star pattern in increments? Does the sound go away if you press in the clutch?

Standard exhaust studs and nuts work just fine

Have you tried jumping the starter (installed) from an alternate battery? If so does it then turn the engine over?When bench testing it actuates out and spins?

I would just like to say welcome to the DSM world and what is it you’re trying to find out?

Not to mention a spare motor is always a great thing! Lol

Awesome Happy for you! I’m constantly in search for a donor car Always good to have every panel, connector, screw, glass, etc in duplicate!

It’s all in the fun of owning one of these lol I’m in the middle of a complete evap delete among a few other toys to add inSo all those hoses and junk are on their way to the trash lolShould look nice and clean after all the goodies are in alsoBut yeah that connector you showed at the...

My mistake yes you are right also at the factory hardline into the filter! We both get points lol

No problem Your unit will look like this afterExcuse the mess I’m in the middle of a lot of deleting relocating and installs right now

how does copper AND orange sound? lol

The BEST PART is how every time you upgrade or mod something it always leads to another mod or upgrade lol the endless build with endless possibilities lol

that or coils are a good place to start How do your plugs look? Carboned up, clean, or white?

welcome

Welcome... great starting platform!

scrapyard parts are even scarce now adays also try to find someone selling a scrapped dsm either talon or eclipse and pick up the whole car for cheap the more spare parts the better

first connector looks like cam or crank sensoror coil pack.... loldisconnect that half from the cc box it goes to your throttle will still function the same

Excellent choice over a 3g lol what are your plans or goals?oh and btw..... Welcome to the dsm world

Any details?

Looks like a 7 bolt from the view of the side of the oil pan 7 bolt pan has that "bump" in it where as the 6 bolt is flat and smoothand if for some reason that bolt needs tightening from time to time.... Which doesnt make sense...If that bolt needs tightening from time to time.... Which...

Crank and cam sensors are definately a place to look

was going to say the same! power it with any 12v batter as dusty specified