I ended up ordering a set of brass bushings from a buddy that makes them as well as an OEM master from Nate and John at performance partout. I have an aftermarket, non OEM and heard of these causing trouble that I am experiencing. Maybe the new bushings, the pedal assembly welded, and an OEM...

Anyone else try this mod with success? I have my pedal assembly out at the moment and I am awaiting brass bushings. @donniekak do you happen to have pictures of this method?Make sure I get this correct before I start drilling. Hole on the right is the stock hole. Where the clevis is currently...

Here for info as well. Anyone compare MSD vs Dynatek?

Anyone? Also curious about this.

It’s a sad day. I pulled my pistons out after seeing some markings on the cylinder wall. I believe this to be the problem with my oil consumption. I built this engine trusting my machinist to get my piston to wall clearance correct. I was wrong for that. Because I’m pretty sure he f*cked it up...

Pulled the motor. Removed the cylinder head. Removed all the valves. 99% sure it’s coming from the valve guides/seals on #2. Im sending the head off to get new guides, seals, and resurfacing completed. I’ll update this post once I have everything back together! Should be just a few weeks.

I may try a 12AN return just for peace of mind, but the turbo return doesn’t seem to be the problem here. I say this because there was zero oil in my intercooler piping, and no oil on my turbine hot side.

I’m going to be pulling the head off soon. I’m still second guessing it being the cylinder head. I’m hoping it is, because the only thing left would be the rings. But considering my leakdown and compression numbers are very good, I don’t think it could be the rings. If my oil control rings were...

Took off the turbo and inspected the hot side, no oil. Then I removed the exhaust manifold and found some oil on #2 through #3’s valve stems. Not a lot, but there’s oil present.Compression and leakdowns good Turbo is good. No oil in turbine or compressor.I’m suspecting the cylinder head...

This is with the lower intercooler pipe taken off and revving to about 5500RPM. Compression and leakdowns are golden. So it’s either the turbo drain, too much oil pressure as @curt-s stated, or the turbo hot side seals going bad?

The MOST vacuum I saw was -.6 in/hg. On average I saw -3in/hg. .2 PSI is the most pressure I’ve seen with my vented set up. Usually, I’m right at 0/.1 PSI.With the sealed set up, I was sucking oil vapor into my intake. Oil has an octane rating of 0. I’d much prefer a small amount of crankcase...

Here is my 10AN return line

My old catch can had a vacuum source pre-turbo actively pulling vacuum on the crankcase. I have measure crank case pressure with both a VTA and a sealed catch can. The difference was nearly negligible between both set ups, and I was measuring from the balance shaft hole. The most vacuum I...

As the title states, I’m burning oil in boost. I can see blue smoke behind me when I get into higher boost (25+ From a FP Red). Then when I let off, the smoke goes away. If I start accelerating again, there’s a bunch of blue/white smoke for about 5 seconds.I compression and leakdowns tested...

I’m having this same exact problem. No smoke at wot, idle, or cruising. I hit 30 PSI, let off and then go to the next gear and just lightly touch the gas for coast down and it blows smoke.Right when I let off and start cruising it smokes for about 5-10 seconds. I can see it in my rear view...

Correct. Just took off the intake manifold, steel thread, aluminum head. Steel is harder than aluminum. Literally threaded right into the EGR port.

I’m unsure how to do that accurately. I can look down the spark plug hole in each cylinder and see a bit of oil with some black charred goodness. I could use a borescope from work. I work in aviation so they have some nice borescopes. It’s a matter of getting one home and back without getting...

I didn’t see your first comment asking if I switched form synthetic to conventional, that was my bad.My last motor’s ringlands failed from a high boost spike. The rings were destroyed and stacked on top of each other. Zero compression in 2 of the 4 cylinders. I think if I had ANY ring...

VR1 comes in both synthetic and conventional.I use conventional oil.

I broke in the motor on the same oil I use now. 20w50 VR1. Gave her low boost acceleration and heavy vacuum deceleration for the first few heat cycles then turned it up. The leakdowns are fine, compression is fine. I’m getting hardly any blow by into the crankcase. Less than my last motor and...

It’s repeatable. I’ve Changed plugs twice, and I’ve gotten new injectors. #2’s electrode and porcelain is noticeably darker than the other 3.

I could run it to a vented system and see if it still occurs. That still would not explain why only symptoms of oil burning (assumably) are observed on #2’s spark plug.I run 20w-50 Valvoline VR1 raging oil.

Hello. I’ll get straight to the point. This is going to be a bit of a longer post! I have one black spark plug on cylinder two, and I’m burning oil at WOT. Here is what I have diagnosed:Recently built 6 bolt motor. 2.3 stroker, your average wiseco piston/eagle rod combo. Roughly 1,000 miles on...

So,I think found the fix.I upgraded from low impedance FIC injectors, to high impedance FIC injectors. Plugged in the resistor box, dialed in global and my deadtimes. Solid idle, amazing partial throttle input. A tiny bit of misfire here and there, but I think I am just being very sensitive...

Spark is most definitely good.

I am concerned it may be the ECU, given that nothing we spoke about will garner MORE fuel into the combustion chamber, at least not that I am aware of. I can try a different CAS for the hell of it, I wanted a pretty black top CAS anyways lol.I was speaking with my tuner, and he said the black...

I have yet to test the harness or swap the PTU. From my understanding, the PTU is a go or no-go. If it is good, it works. If it’s bad, it wouldn’t work. I did change the leads just to make sure it wasn’t a bad lead causing my issues. I’m not entirely sure what to check for when shooting the...

So I just picked up some FIC 1200cc Hi-Z injectors and a resistor pack delete to see if it’s a latency issue. I doubt it is, because I swapped injectors and the problem persisted on #2 cylinder. That wouldn’t be a bad idea to remove my valve cover and make sure I don’t have a bad lifter or a...

Anyone have any ideas? WOT I’m 11.1:1. #2 isn’t getting as much air as the other three cylinders. And I’m not sure how to explain that.

#2 cylinder is running rich compared to the other three. I swapped the #2 injector with #3 injector, and the problem persisted on #2 cylinder. Compression tests show all 4 at 190-195 PSI. It’s a dry foul, not wet at all so I don’t think it’s oil. I also have zero symptoms of burning oil. No blue...

Thinking back about my last comment, there is a collection of unburnt fuel in the cylinder you pull ignition from. Once spark is re-introduced, that excess fuel is burnt, resulting in rich AFRs.Just a guess.

I hear ya. Probably scratching my head over here over a spark plug or something lol.Anyways, I went ahead and pulled spark from each individual cylinder. The wideband initially went LEAN (about 16:1), as I suspected it would. However, once the spark lead was re introduced, the wideband went...

This is a fresh rebuild with just under 300 miles on it at the moment. Brand new NGK plugs, brand new NGK wires. Compression is 180 across the board as well.

I told my tuner about my symptoms and showed him the log, it stumped him as well. He has some ideas that he bounced off me, but he said he has never seen a rich misfire.I turned off each injector in link while the car was idling and I didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary from what you...

That’s what I wasn’t going to mention. Low impedance injectors don’t have the greatest idle or part throttle properties. That being said, why would the misfire read rich? That’s where I am confused.

I locked it in open loop and it acts the same. Narrowband simulation. However, because I can feel and hear the misfire I know it's not wideband related.

Starting at the 1145 second point, to 1185 is a good representation of what I am talking about. Smooth, low throttle position, and you can see sudden rich spikes. Battery volts are solid, fuel pressure is solid, MAP sensor isn't acting funny.

Hello all.Need to pick your brains real quick. At idle I can hear a hollow, misfire sound. Doesn’t affect my AFR, idle is steady.While cruising, I hear the same hollow misfire sound, my AFR goes rich (12.7:1-12.2:1), and the car stutters for a split second. It’s random while cruising at...

The aesthetics alone on that drive shaft makes me want one. It’s a shame it’s under the car where no one can see it! Nice review

Anthony Boni submitted a new DSM Profile :Tyrone the TalonRead more about this vehicle here...

It’s been a while since I last thought about my ISC issue. I ended up buying a FIAV block off plate and haven’t been running a FIAV nor an ISC motor for the past year or so.After sending the ECU to ecmlink and testing the harness for resistance, nothing out of the ordinary was found. I...

Hello,If anyone is interested in using the 1/8” NPT method to block their EGR port, it works like a dream. Threaded right in. Mine was a little crooked, but it seals up just fine. I stuffed some vacuum hose down the EGR port on the exhaust side of the cylinder head and shot 100 psi of air...

Bringing this thread back for anyone also interested in blocking off the EGR port on the intake side of the cylinder head. I am going to emulate what @turbosax2 did with an 1/8” NPT plug and some red loctite. Reason being is I am running a venom SMIM with a thermal heat gasket. That EGR gas is...

The FIAV does not have a block off plate installed. I thought it did. I believe there is air bypassing the throttle plate through the FIAV. Hence why during the boost leak test, I see nothing leaking.

Here is a log of the activity. You can see how high the idle is. I've lowered the FC offset to 0 (It was so high because my car would bog when I first rebuilt the engine it would bog down on coastdown.)

I will be as descriptive as possible here.Throttle body is closed, RPM surges around 1100-1500 after driving around a bit. Once the car cools down, cold start it and it’s fine. Drive it, same issue.This is my understanding of what’s happening, correct me if I’m wrong. Being this car is on...

Next cold start it is normal until I drive it, then it idles high again.

I’ll post a log in a few minutes. I’ve ordered a FIAV block off plate to eliminate the FIAV and ISC as a possibility. I use neither one.

Just drove and didn’t even go to WOT. Started idle surging and stayed around 1200 RPM. I’m tuning with ECMLink V3