Just stumbled upon this when I opened up motortrend just a little bit ago. I won’t spoil it, but god damn that was impressive and made me proud of these god awful 90s shit boxes we love so much.
This brings up a valuable point though. Findings are clear results that when the ARC 2 works it does work and damn good, so it makes me wonder why so many failures (aside from faulty ones from Dynatek), are they moisture sensitive perhaps?
You’re not helping your case at all by name calling a reputable vendor in our community for telling you facts you don’t want to hear. Use the search function here to see why you’re not in the least bit correct and to see how ridiculous you’re making yourself look.
He’s 100% correct. You can’t simply take cam caps out of one head and bang them in another and say it’s good, these are only good to the cylinder head they came off of, if that head is trashed then these are scrap aluminum as well. If someone slammed other cam caps in the head these came out...
I’m all about seeing them work! In this case it’s clearly making a difference and hope it continues to.In one of my cases it was a good buddy dealing with it in his 90’ Talon (that I actually owned at one point), triple confirmed wiring was good and sent the box back, Dynatek admitted they...
I’ve never seen much good of the Dynatek ARC-2 box. Most cases I’ve seen first hand they either didn’t work right from the get go or if they worked they didn’t work long. Every one of those cases it was ditched for the M&W box and no more problems to be had.
I always had boost and the wideband in the vent pod and oil pressure and water temp in the din below the radio in a flat piece I laser cut and mounted in there (could cut a similar piece by hand it’s basic I just had a CNC laser at my disposal). The vent pod I have was some eBay deal but has...
I’d bet the valve seals aren’t doing valve seal things when they’re cold. The only turbo I’ve ever had smoke was a Chinese 16g I had before I switched to a real MHI Johnson and it only smoked after being in boost on decel then I’d come to a stop and blip the throttle a time or 2 and it’d clear...
If you’re planning to stay with a 16g then a ported 2g manifold or ported evo 3 manifold (hard to find these days) is the best matched. The FP race manifold is a nice piece, but the runners are a tad bit large for stuff like the 14b and 16g being they’re geared towards the heavier hitting bolt...
You can indeed use a 7cm turbine housing from a 16g. You can rob one from a blown China 16g pretty cheap along with the adjustable wastegate actuator and it’s a nice cheap upgrade over the 6cm housing. Also the 6cm turbine housing is notorious for cracking with age, I haven’t seen one in many...
Shoot I wouldn’t hesitate to run that flywheel! I see some staining from rust but no heat marks or anything, I’m willing to bet it’s a fresh surface and just rusted before it got used, however you know my bad habits of throwing junk together just works out in my favor by some miracle.
Let’s say it again all together, “CX racing turbos are the same Chinese 16g’s built by the same Chinese 8 year olds that every other eBay vendor sells, CXracing does nothing special with them”. With that being said, it’s like I mentioned above they work until they don’t. I’ve seen a couple...
Marty’s over here ruffling feathers at Walmart meanwhile I haven’t touched anything over here, too busy but my truck will be in the garage for a 3/4 drop soon enough, no more than that but I can’t leave anything alone.
Run of the mill Chinese knockoff 16g, same exact one can be had through other vendors without the marked up extras for 150 bucks. Do the same thing as an authentic one until they don’t, which is typically a short life span so buyer beware. You can usually pick up a working used authentic MHI...
I mean not to negate your thoughts on it but how bad off is that shell really? Is it down south rusty where there’s some scaling here and there and is northerners would be like “this thing is real solid!”, or is it actually rotted through in various places?
Been trying to talk myself out of tossing a 16g on the rotted 1g I have and just driving the shit out of it with no ragrets while I make the Eclipse what I want it to be. I have so many parts I can’t talk myself out of it.
And stories like that is why I tell people the most fun you can possibly bolt to a dsm is a 16g! Don’t get me wrong, I’ve had my fun with “big” turbos, but at the end of the day the 16g will always be my favorite.
From my understanding they switched hands a time or 2 and started selling all generic Chinese parts instead of just certain items like early on, someone posted on their Instagram they were getting back into hand fabricated manifolds and such, then that’s the last I heard or seen and that was...
If it tells you anything the sbe record car has gone 8.90 at 151 on a felpro composite and some standard ARP studs, doesn’t mean it’s the best option for everyone but says a lot for the guys who thing they need an MLS gasket for their stock street car that rarely sees wot. And I’m also with...
Look at several other hx40 set ups in stock location, if the wastegate dump is an issue re route it to where it’s not, if hoses are intervening with it fix it so they’re not as these our problems no one else has with that set up. Do it the right way and cry once, I will tell you right now...
Not to thread jack but why are you so dead set on using that radiator when you have more than enough room with an ERL manifold and hx40 to use a full radiator? I get it in @TeamFury ’s case as with top mount set ups and what not there might not be room so then it makes sense, but if you can fit...
Mileage is only somewhat relevant in cases like this, it all comes down to how it was treated and maintained when it comes to mileage. As far as your engine failure, could be any number of things, injector could’ve gave out mid pull, there could’ve been something going on inside prior that you...
Yes, I should have clarified, my reference was in regards to BC’s duration listing, brands like to list off duration but for example while BC, HKS, and Kelford reference a 272 duration they’re all different cams with different specs overall from each other.
That all depends on various factors. If you’re running something like a 16g you wouldn’t want to go beyond the 272’s, if we’re talking stock turbo then you’re not ready to be swapping cams yet, if we’re talking a 600+ horsepower big turbo configuration then something in the 280 ballpark would...
Now I will say I’m throwing a set of BC 272’s in an otherwise stock head in another project, that one I have no plan to need to rev over 7k in that configuration so I’m using the 156k mile springs in that head without hesitation. My other head now has Evo 8 springs with it after experiencing...
Those ACCEL or whatever wires can be hit or miss, but something to look at if you’re set on a certain color other than blue. Below is a long discussion from 12+ years ago from this page and what some knowledgeable guys found with different brands, however NGK can’t ever be wrong...
The thicker fancy wires do nothing special and make zero improvement.For the turbo cars whatever off the shelf plug wires and the stock coil pack do the same thing until spark blowout becomes an issue (don’t usually see this until you get into the 600+ horsepower ballpark), I just recommend...
I experienced valve float with BC 272’s on stock springs when many have not. Wasn’t an issue on a 16g when I wasn’t reving past 7k like mentioned above but showed when I switched to a bigger turbo and wanted to rev higher, and as mentioned above im sure that came from fatigue with age. The...
Might want to clarify your answer is more engine specific, I’m not real 420a familiar but I see a lot of 420a guys opt for MLS which I’m assuming is safer due to the overall design. In a 4g63 that’s simply not true, know several instances where guys are using 9:1 and 10:1 compression pistons...
Paul absolutely nailed it, very well COULD be the MAF, but there’s things to check first.Along with that, even if there was a gain to be had you’d cause new issues. I once tossed a 1g turbo MAF on my car when it was still non-turbo to see what would happen, datalogging and my wideband showed...
Oh I agree with you there, I wouldn’t dare try to start an interference engine with a rubber belt after a few years without servicing it, and not saying things CANT get shady internally, I’ve by all means encountered stuck engines that have sat 10 years nothings out of the realm of possibility...
Not to thread jack but you’d be surprised, a lot of the junk I mess with has sat 15, 20, 30+ years and the cylinder walls and other internals are absolutely fine. This is the only community where I see this misconception of “it sat for more than a couple years so it needs completely rebuilt!”...
That’s how I looked at it so how we always did them. Deal with changing the levers out right there on the bench to work with the more common pieces or rip the console out and and fish the cables out and all that nonsense to use less common stuff, I liked simply changing the levers and bolt the...
That’s the right track! As far as the oil pump goes in these engines there aren’t really any upgraded ones and aftermarket ones are questionable, the rule of thumb for them has always been if it’s broke don’t fix it, however there are ways to inspect and measure the clearances for wear. @DSMPT...
Don’t mind me, some of us love to get Hiroshi San off topic because of the plethora of good information and stories we get!However, to elaborate the whole ECMLink vs stock Evo ECU comparison I made mention of, I live about 20 minutes East of Buschur Racing here in Ohio, with them having a lot...
Starting at the 300ish range can be done with the fuel system upgrades and such to reach 400 but simply turn it up and make small changes. Fuel availability is a factor as well, if you have e85 available it can go a lot further. Honestly if it was me, if the engine is healthy without digging...
David Buschur tried them a few years back when he got on an auto kick with the earlier 4g powered cars (around the time they did the white 1g auto car). I stopped out there to get something and the topic of automatics got brought up and he had said he pulled a few strings to get his hands on...
Not hard if you have an air hammer, someone on another recent thread I just seen gave a great explanation of how to get at it that broke down how simple it was but I can’t for the life of me remember what thread it was! In short, I know you don’t have one but it makes for a great excuse to go...
Keep in mind throwing parts at something doesn’t automatically make it more reliable or better, break that mindset before you even start. I’m assuming you’re not in the US but even so while companies like HKS or Tomei (like someone mentioned I didn’t even know Blitz was still around) offer some...