FINALLY got my engine back in! So happy she's coming back together. Still finding odds and ends that need fixed, tied up, replaced whatever...can't wait to have it on the road

Glad your rebuilding instead of scrapping! Don't skimp on your bearings etc...I had mine at the machine shop over the winter and they checked everything(had a bad crank) tanked everything, polished up my new crank, polished valve surfaces etc and was out the door for less than 800. Mine also had...

in my experience with metal in the oil, it get everywhere so when i had mine torn down after finding that the rod bearing for #2 was destroyed was i had the machine shop hot tank everything, blow it out and tank it again. the hope is that the little bit that didnt come out when it was there...

Incredible job! Very jealous and can only hope mine turns out as nice! Except in different color of course

rebuilding would probably be your cheapest route unless you see one in the classifieds here...would say maybe ebay but most of those folks are unreliable( at least thats what ive found ) seems most ppl here are knowledgeable and honest with what they have. good luck!

thank you...forgot to put that in there...its a seven bolt 2g

so i havent really started my build thread however today finally had a chance to tear my engine down...long story short on this is that it had a bad knock which previous owner said was ghost knock. engine ran like crap, had the knock and fuel issues. anyhow...tore it down today to find the head...

sounds like you have some wire tracing to do. im assuming you had the door panels off and checked the wiring there? from there i would start tracing wherever they lead. could possibly be a bad connector in a harness plug somewhere as well. you can search for schematics on google or here as well...

Dillon...there's loads of threads on here for timing marks/alignment...my phone isn't letting me copy the links for you right now but there's also a procedure u need to go through to be sure your timing is right...I remember the hand cranking the engine 6times around to double check all your...

Your situation sounds similar to mine...bought someone else's project and that person had no direction with the car..just slap parts on and see what happens...my suggestion would be to follow the routine maintenance thread...it turned up lots of issues that had been missed/skipped on my car...it...

No I'm sorry didn't look at part numbers however you can search by year, make and model and it should point you in the right direction

No I'm sorry I don't...I've never bothered checking that if the info is even available...I would think tho that if they lift the hatch itself which is heavy to begin with, adding your wing probably won't make that big of a difference...unless its some gigantic Sprint car wing;)Now that you...

would recommend checking ebay, rockauto...etc. for them. i replaced mine a couple months ago because the old ones wouldnt hold the hatch up either. the new ones have no problem. got them from ebay i think for around 25-30bucks

Don't know if it's rare or not to be honest but if u were trying to avoid high cost body shop or buying all new that's what I would do...then if it doesn't turn out how u want it replace it down the road

Check around your local parts stores...around my area we have certain Napa auto parts store that can mix your paint color with a code of course and put it in a rattle can...the ones I've gotten are a one shot deal...paint and when it dries it gets a nice shine to it...of course u need to wait...

Agreed...I used aftermarket mounts myself and they made life much easier. The driver side looks real nice tho! Good luck!

I've found with mine anyways that the fronts of the rearwells and under the rear hatch lid for rust but I'm sure others have different experiences. As far as info goes...check around the site here...the amount info is crazy and most ppl know their stuff when it comes to these cars. Good luck...

That sucks man...if you want to check you oil cooler it's easy to rig something up fitting wise to check pressure in it and you could use a regular air compressor for it. Cap one end obviously and pressure the other and see what happens. Obviously if it tests good then you know more than likely...

If they're more than a few years old maybe a good idea to replace anyways. I've seen many cars/ trucks when getting weak voltage from one sometimes the others aren't far behind.

Nice job saving that one Fallen! Looks like your making a ton of headway...makes me jealous seeing the gst Spyder

Jmo here but if there is rtv in there...that means someone had their fingers somewhere they probably shouldn't have...would definitely check it out

there is alot to explain but i know there are multiple articles and threads here about timing your gsx (im assuming 4g63t) here is something to at least get you started...there is tons of info out there as far as timing but just be sure to follow the instructions...

theres quite a few places out there that will check your ecm and probably fix it if it is broke and have it back to you in a day or two...check them out if you can verify that its bad. have you tried disconnecting the s-afc and started it without?

Have you followed the initial maintenance items listed in the forum? It maybe a fuel filter problem or maybe just an old gas problem. Would try some of that or maybe octane boost? If you're still thinking vac lines maybe check yours vs. the schematics that I'm sure are listed somewhere on this...

Raab...im not completely sure about the gsx conversion but i think youre headed in the right direction thinking about coilovers...my 2g has groundcontrols on it and theyre adjustable...pretty nice for rural areas even tho theyre a pain to adjust sometimes...but once you find that sweet spot...

glad its an easy fix! hope she runs good for you!

If your bench test proves your starter good...would definitely break out the multimeter and check things out... obviously start at the wires to your starter and work your way back and if still no luck...check your ignition out...don't remember which wire is your power out but had the same...

Looks like a good list to me but I'm sure someone has something else....pcv valve, intake and exhaust studs and nuts are about the only extras I see u don't have listed

I would try getting a new one and test it the same way with same battery...if it works then u know they're both bad...if it doesn't...return the new one

Agreed....if you're battery is charged you can use that with jumper cables( kinda cheap way of doing it )

clamps and it never hurts to clean grounds and the bolt heads. corrosion can build up under the bolt heads and is easily missed if your not really looking. hope you get her fired.

just an update here...pulled valve cover and checked things out...checked timing etc...things look good, have a 4g64 spyder parts car so just to be sure i pulled injectors out of that even though i know the cc is not as much as what i need and stuck them in...no more knock/ tap while...

thanks Patchez...for now till i get some other things fixed ill just buy a set of factory injectors..much appriciated

Could I have an injector open? Was checking timing and replaced plugs and #4 was definitely wet...or maybe not firing? Sorry thinking out loud here

Ok...so hopefully someone can still help me here...new fuel pressure gauge came today and I got off work early so put that in..tuned pressure to 42-44...and let it idle..still idling rough...still has knock...and looks and smells like fuel dripping from exhaust joint...not quite sure what...

Jmo but I've always gone by weight so long as pressures done get crazy out of whack...evac, then give a new charge to what it calls for...I think someone mentioned 26oz.?

its an aem, he also put the high flow aem rail on too

hey copper....i cant say for sure now that it was running that high since the gauge at the regulator is broke...i do have it backed off and according to the wideband its running lean but still has a bad tap/knock...new gauge should be here soon so then ill know for sure...just wondering if...

Would also suggest taking the time to replace your motor mounts while your in there...new poly bushings are nice and I didn't think it took all that long to swap them out

Just a thought but hope it'll help but have you replaced the fuel filter...been working on mine since I just got it and the one I took out looked like it had never been changed..helped my idle problem a little bit since I've gotten fuel pressure down.

I'll give it a shot then Pat when I get the new gauge...I think I have it tuned down now, doesn't smell like a gas station but the old gauge must be stuck at 90 cuz it hasn't changed....thanks for the help

thank you!

thanks 91...was messing with the regulator yesterday but i dont think that the gauge at the regulator is working right which is why i ordered a new one. ill try getting it down somemore today. when i was searching around for some threads for help i found some generic tunes for the safc but since...

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so i have a new to me 99gst with many mods and car has alot of potential but previous owner didnt seem to have direction with the car. so i spent the day yesterday straightening out wiring issues and such but biggest problem now is that the car has crazy fuel pressure (90+) according to the...

just wanted to say hi! and glad to be back...had a 97 gst spyder years back and finally found a 99 gst to start playing with and get back into it...you guys have already been a world of help and im sure will continue to be considering this car seems to have some serious fuel/ possible timing...