Yes, by hand. TDC every time.
You can see the screwdriver in the mating hole in a couple photos up out of the cylinder resting on the piston top (1&4, 2&3).
With #1, I used the crank marks as well.
Thx for being bold to ask. I'm bewildered how she ran OK at all!
Scott
Well, as it turns out, there was one more test I did not do: A leak down test.
Recall my compression numbers here:
#1: 180, #2: 160, #3: 190 #4: 155
Now for leak down values at 75psi:
#1: 11, #2: 11, #3: 74 #4: 44
WOW!
#1 leaks into # 2 spark plug hole
#2 leaks into #4 spark plug hole
#3...
Thanks, DSMPT. I am already getting ready to put this in...as soon as I locate that seal and now I have sources, thanks to your links. Maybe someone has it in town. But probably not.
FOUND the leak! It was the seal behind the BALANCE SHAFT gear. I'll presume it is the seal. I never removed the gear. I suppose this isn't standard to replace like the cam and crank seals. But I sure wish I did it when I did the job the first time. Now, to find a seal. Anyone have part...
I was really hoping someone would say, "That is WAY too much for 120k mile car!" I have a borescope, but where to look will be the challenge. I am afraid without any other thoughts, I'll be removing the lower cover and running it.
Got the readings! Upon cold start (garage temperature is 60 degrees with synthetic 5W30). Startup promptly swings to 85 psi. Revving it takes it to 105psi
I have a low-pressure gauge up to 100 and high pressure up to 400. Both of them registered the same responses, so it is accurate.
All is stock. Both balance shafts are still intact. Even put a bit of silicone on the bolt that holds the front balance shaft tensioner in the block to ensure no leakage.
When it begins to leak, it pools at the bottom of the timing cover. It does not leak outside of the cover. But when the...
Just completed a timing and balance shaft belt job. Yes, both belts. Even put a bit of silicone on the bolt holding the balance shaft tensioner because I heard that can leak on deletes. But it NOT deleted. New crank and cam seals. New pulleys, tensioners, WP.
After putting it together, noted oil...
So after a successful timing belt install, perfect tension, new crank sensor (only one) etc., the car started up and ran flawlessly for about 8 minutes. Smooth idle, settled down after a minute. But then the miss showed up again.
I feel I am left with getting the ECM rebuilt or another one. It...
And luv2rallye wins the prize! That is EXACTLY what is scraping! I haven't even put the covers back on because I wanted to post the SOLUTION and luv2rallye beat me to it while I was figuring it out!
With NO music or noise in the garage, I slowing turned the crank by hand and each time the...
Well, the odd thing is if I put that trigger plate on backward, the timing notch would be way out of place (note the attached photo above). And I don't think it would start (crash some valves maybe if I rotated it to where I think it should have been (being that it was on backward). And..I...
I have done timing belt jobs many times before. This is my first on this 2.0T by Mitsubishi.
After learning the ups and downs (literally!) for accessing each component, it was a successful install with all marks lined up. Both belts were due so it wasn't due to any failure at 120K miles. There...
The timing belt was due. The crank seemed almost a whole tooth forward due to belt stretch. The only places I can see oil possibly leaking is the crank and the camshafts. Below the cams it is dry as a bone. The crank shows a bit of seepage. But just ABOVE the crank a drip is seen here and there...
While I am changing the timing belt and all components, maybe I should toss in a new crank sensor. It's the one electronic component, aside from the ECM, that I haven't changed. Good idea?
Great news! Car returned due to a major leaking crank seal. Timing belt is now due at 120K anyway so both belts and all related components will be replaced this week. This gives me a bit more time for diagnosis too.O2 sensors are active and working fantastic in tandem.Coolant Temp Sensor...
Haha! Yes, I missed a zero. That would be SOME gap on the plugs, Delta!
I just verified a couple of things. First, it is a 1997, not a 1996. Since it has been over a month since I installed the CAS, I no longer have a good record of what the part number was. Interestingly enough, when I called...
Miguel, Thanks for your detailed reply. If I went to Oreilly's and got a 1996 CAS, I assume it was a 2G sensor.
Periodically, especially when it is dead cold, it runs fantastic for a couple miles! Does this alone rule out an incorrect CAS?
Now, for the next question if we have the proper 2G...
Did a compression check when it was hot and missing. Readings were all about the same as before. All held compression for the 15 seconds I watched before I bled it down and went to the next hole. I decided to just throw in some fresh plugs - NGK BPR6es, the usual. .28 gap, etc.
It ran Fantastic...
So, I located a known good Resistor Pack, bought it and installed it. It ran fantastic for the first couple miles. The car had sat for a week. Then the missing began again, check engine light came on again. I am thinking that maybe it could be the ECU. But I am also thinking perhaps since it...
Just posted a result above. Thanks for the advice. I was able to swap the injector wires. So, the injector pulse isn't timed like a spark so it doesn't matter which harness is on which injector?
Scott
Thanks, Motomattx. I redid the compression check. The number 4 is now at 155 (10psi higher). The rest remained the same - #1: 180, #2: 160, #3: 190 #4: 155
Also swapped #2 and #3 fuel injector harnesses as MiguelMCV suggested. Now I have a P0300 random misfire instead of just misfire on 2...
1996 Eclipse, automatic, completely stock
Code: P0302 - Miss on #2 cylinder.All four NGK plugs and wires are new.
Fuel pressure: in spec at 45psi at all RPMs
#2 Spark plug is black, appearing rich condition while other plugs are more white in color showing good burn.Replaced Coil that...
I have a 92 Galant VR4 with ABS and it performs flawlessly. It is actually a sleeper iceracing. Folks can't believe this sedan when its taillights show up in front of them right after a good drifted corner! The only thing I need would be a good limited slip rear end for the straight aways. That...
I have the potential of buying a nice one with an LSD, but since I ice race here in Alaska, that ABS is sure nice. I know that if I could find someone deleting much of their's I'd still be possibly 4 axles away. Any thoughts on this?