Depends on your goals. What do you want out of the car? Think cost, power, amount of work you want to do (and/or pay for)...The more boost you decide to push, the more you'll have to upgrade. Keeping it stock or close to stock will keep your costs down.

Second that. With parts, and transmissions, getting harder to come by I would have it welded and tapped.

Thanks for the explanation. My last professional working with a/c systems was back in the 90s at the changeover, so I appreciate any info I can get to add to/remind me of things.

Thanks, Marty. Kinda confirms what I remember about non-compatability between the two refrigerants (particularly the oils).

Well... welcome (hang on, let me scroll back up...) IntellectCorner. First, you and we would be MUCH better served if you cut this post up and put each question in a different post. Not only will you save us brain space in trying to hold on to all of that information, but your responses will be...

What about seal compatibility between r12, r134a, and propane? Not that running propane is a wise choice imo. A propane leak around a hot engine... I like the explosions to happen inside the combustion chamber.I also thought that the r134a systems were designed to run at a higher pressure than...

I have used freon with dye and leak stop before in a pinch to get me through, but I don't recommend relying on it. Certainly put freon leaded with dye into the sysyem so you can find the leak though.@Sirius1995 is right with pulling the system into a vacuum. If the system has been leaking...

Posting a video that clearly "shows" us the knock would be helpful. Just going off what you've said, I wouldn't start or drive it at all. If the engine is damaged internally, it's a time bomb. Better to swap in a known good 420A for now.

A parasitic draw will draw the battery down to 0 given enough time. Depends on how long the car is sitting. Charge the battery up and then clamp the + cable to the battery. Next, put a test light between the neg post and the neg post clamp. If the test light illuminates, you have a draw.Don't...

Yes. No reason to pull the engine to remove the head or timing covers.

If you are using a larger fuel pump you'll need to perform the fuel pump rewire mod. Plenty of posts on it in here. You can look at this one.https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-fuel-pump-rewire.437012/

Exterior looks okay, but pics of the interior and engine bay would go a long way. Also, focus on common rust areas. Is the car stock or modified? Finally, best to post this in the classifieds.

From your first post it seems like you just bought the car and experienced the issue on day 1. It is possible that this problem came with the car.If the bigger turbo was added and is pushing more than about 10 lbs of boost, then almost everything to do with engine and fuel management systems...

Best forum to ask is club3g.com; this site is 1g and 2g DSMs.

BTW - that mansplain wasn't necessarily for you, but for anyone who looks at this thread who may not be familiar with forced induction and for whom the intake piping is a mystery. There are many configurations for our cars, so pics and youtube videos don't always help. Just wanted to jot down...

Glad you got it taken care of. All vehicles will have the same basic plumbing path. Filtered air to the turbo/supercharger, then that compressed (heated) air gets routed to something to cool it (intercooler, ice bath, something), and from there the now-cooler air goes to the intake. There are...

Intake piping for the turbocharged vehicles is: - Air cleaner and pipe to inlet of the turbo - turbo outlet to the intercooler inlet - intercooler outlet to the throttle body.How that piping looks and is routed will depend on your setup. It will be routed the same, just may look different.

White smoke is normally coolant. Oil smoke has a blue tint to it and doesn't billow. Did you have the head milled at a machine shop when you did the head gasket?

+1 on the machine shop route. Without measuring the critical points you are gambling that everything is okay. The extra cost and labor to take care of the head and have it done right is minimal when compared to reassembly of a questionable assembly, only to find out 100 or 5,000 miles later that...

Unless you are going to push your car (hard driving, whether fast on winding roads or in some sortof race scenario), you won't realize the benefits and improvements the special suspension gives you. But because quality stock replacements are almost impossible to come by, I recommend you...

Unfortunately rod knock is only fixable by rebuilding the engine. Given the mods visible, your engine should be gone through very thoroughly. If the engine was properly built and driven and maintained well, you shouldn't have much of an issue. But if the PO beat on the car, didn't maintain it...

Oh, I don't know... I've always kinda liked the BWAAAAAA i'm a HONDAAAAAAAA PTBPBPTBPBPBP sound... :barf:

As suggested, the idle issue may very well be coming from improper air fuel mixture. This can be caused by the wrong amount of air based on how much air the mass air sensor reads. If you are looking to feed a group of people and count the folks coming in the front door, that's fine... unless...

If the dude had been a REAL professional he'd have used some duct tape to wrap it. Don't suppose there's a coat hanger holding the muffler on, or maybe zip ties keeping the bumper on?

I can't say for others, but I know that life got a bit nuts for awhile for me and I just haven't been in the right space to address people's questions. Plus many of the questions that seem to be coming in are more specific in nature... more in the weeds. Body work questions, niche ECU or...

There will be more to this than just swapping an intake manifold. Is your gst stock or has it been modified? If modified, please tell us what all has been done to it.

Completely agree with the rest. That car shouldn't be touched aside from regular maintenance and buffing it with a diaper... plus driving it occasionally to keep everything mobile and in good condition. Cheers to a beatuiful, unmolested gem!

Yes. What you are seeing on the flat connector pins and socket is factory dielectric grease.

If you haven't set a budget yet, start there. What you are comfortable spending on this project will steer your decisions. Does no good to budget $5000 only to spend $4500 on a beastly engine and not have enough $ left over to get the peripheral upgrades you need to use it.

Also, with no engine or transmissuon, I assume you've got some grounds disconnected...

It is conceivable that a misfire could cause increased temps - if you are extremely lean that cyl will burn hotter. It could also cause internal damage if its been happening long or extreme enough. I would pull plug #4 and see how it looks - if it is white with ash and deposits. Compare to the...

If the upper radiator hose gets hot then the thermostat is opening. If you smell coolant then there is a leak... unless you spilled some recently. You can add some UV dye to the radiator and run the car, then check with a black light to see if you spot a coolant leak. Since you smell coolant but...

Can you run the engine? Sure. Will it cause problems? Probably. Considering the intense heat, pressure, and stress the combustion chamber is subject to, imperfections and damage like that will hasten component wear. The scratch looks like it goes deep in, but there is also a portion where the...

The lack of "check THIS" can be bothersome, but no-starts are a bear to diagnose from behind a keyboard because there are so damn many things that can be the culprit. Without a clear list of specific symptoms, things checked with results, and a lot of back and forth dialogue, it's often luck (or...

I'd be very cautious about the "rust being repaired." That black spray paint on the right strut tower gives me serious pause... I'd think a professional would have matched the paint...The mods make me wonder as well... I would ask about/look for wiring hacks...

First thing I would check is the timing belt. Pull the top timing cover and see if the belt is loose, or crank the engine and see if the cams spin. If that doesn't reveal an answer, post a video of what it's doing.

"gas pedal hard to press" - unless the car surges or engine runs away, my first thing to check would be the throttle cable/gas pedal assy. The gas pedal should depress easily with your hand and return just as easily. As to the clutch, as has been said the wrong parts, too stiff of a pressure...

So your question is...?

+1 - should have no problem meshing with the starter and have plenty of depth. Any problems giving you concern?

Best advice I can give you is to spend time learning WHY and HOW things work. Ask questions on here. Why is it that vehicle A will be okay with lower compression and mild boost while vehicle B would become a paper weight? How do the engine systems and sensors work together so the engine runs...

Excellent. Very glad you found the problem. Yes, the corrosion would definitely inhibit the spark voltage. Nice find.

When you checked for spark I assume it was just a visual test, that plug 2 emitted a spark you could see. It is possible that the spark is present but weak, that some of the energy is being bled off through a partial grounding, or the energy produced is not at the level it should be. A weak...

Have you checked for a vacuum leak?

Awesome wisdom, @pauleyman! Mechanics used to be diagnosticians... but with the arrival of OBD, so many "mechanics" have allowed the computer to take the place of critical thinking.

You might try spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid around different areas whule the car idles. If the rpms jump, your leak is in the area you sprayed. A BLT will ID other trouble spots too though...

Sorry to hear you're having issues. I assume you are asking what the problem is.Not a lot of experience with AT here, but I believe all of your codes are related. The P1776 indicates a pressure problem within the transmission, specifically the pressure sensed for the overdrive solenoid. This...

Sorry but I have no idea what you are asking or what problem you are trying to address. You have no spark, or intermittent spark? You're wanting to charge the A/C, but you can't do that if the engine won't run. Backfiring indicates spark. Possibly a bad ecu? You wired a cop?Please clarify what...

Not trying to be insulting or silly; it will take a little time for the system to pressurize to 20psi, just like it takes time to fill a tire. Have you held the valve long enough to pressurize it? I have a compressor that lets me vary the output pressure, so I just lock the fill hose on the...

Much of this has to do with manufacturing costs and the regulations for each region. For example, it may be much more expensive to put a Chrysler 420-A into a European-market car due to trade agreements and tariffs. It may be that "DSM" (a joint business venture between Chrysler Corporation and...

Please stop... you're bringing back memories of FOD walks, tool crib inventories, and late nights cuddling up with a bore scope... :D