Do you know any place to get a crankshaft used or even reman? The auto parts around here can’t get them and there are no wrecking yards either with the part. Online they are around $600-$800
I did forget to mention that the oil pressure was fine after installing the bearings, but there was a slight knock. But the knocking has gotten worse and now the oil pressure is peaked out but still getting to the top end without issue. I know the bearings are not in backwards. I checked them...
I recently had issues with crankwalk. I checked and the main middle bearing with the thrust washer was shaved down on one side. The crankshaft has mild scratching on the side that wore down the bearing. I replaced the Main bearings and the crank position sensor because it was bad due to the...
I know if I don’t go past like 1.3 inch drop I shouldn’t need a camber kit due to it not being lowered much. I’m not trying to go super low because that’s tacky and ridiculous. Just trying to close the gap some in the wheel wells
Yeah I’ll have to check around. A long time ago I made the mistake of buying ones for a non-turbo and it was supposed to do a 1 inch drop but it sent me car straight to the ground so I sent them back. I found one of the vendors on here sells lowering springs that it lists for gst/ gsx so I’ll...
I’ve seen posts like this a bunch and they all have the same answers. Here is the issue. I’m trying to get lowering springs for my 97 gsx. I already have Koni yellows, but I’ve been trying to find lowering springs. I wanted to get the eibach prokit. But it’s no longer made, same with H&R...
I need an output shaft for my 1997 Eclipse gsx. I’ve been having a hard time finding one. Preferably good used one. It’s too expensive for a new one. Thanks
Does anyone know the part number for the rear motor mount bracket that bolts to the block on a 2g gsx? I have been looking for one for a while and can only find over priced ones on ebay and I don't really trust anything sold on ebay. Or know of anyone selling one? Thanks for any help you guys...
I finally was able to pull the trans apart and it doesn’t look like anything is damaged or even scratched or loose. Shins aren’t work at all. And the spider gears are fine. I did post a few pictures for reference. I do see a small gap at the spider gears. Is that normal?
Also, before pulling...
I pulled out the VC. It looks fine, but I don’t know how to actually check it. It was a pain to get out. And I’m trying to get the 5th gear fork out but the spring pin is stuck. It won’t come out with a punch. Probably have to drill it out. And I went and got a 34mm socket to take the gear nuts...
So I pulled open the tcase that had the teeth stripped off. Everything looks good inside. So it must have been on the transmission side. I’m posting photos of the inside of the tcase
Thanks for the tip. I’ll do that. I did jack the rear end up and spun the wheels and had no noise. When I spun the driver’s side wheel forward. The driveshaft spun fine but the passenger wheel didn’t spin at all. The I spun the passenger wheel forward. It spun the driveshaft as well and the...
So I pulled the transfer case to check if it was the transmission or transfer case and well. I found out that it probably is the rear differential. The transfer case turned fine by itself after I pulled it out of the car and off the driveshaft. Without any issue and so did the transmission. But...
Thank you for the help. I really appreciate it. The only reason I’m not pulling the transmission and sending it to someone is cost saving. Hard to do on a small budget. But yea I have seen your posts and have been doing non stop reading for it. If it comes down to it. I might just pull the...
I know how to do a lot of the inspections. But lack jack stands or the extra tools to do a lot of work and I live in an apartment where they have a strict “no working on your car or you have to move out” policy. So I’m stuck only doing things that I can do with a single jack and after office...
They didn’t disassblebit. They just did a diagnostics check that cost me $145 and their hourly rate is $104 so I know they didn’t spend a lot of time on it. Their exact words were that they thinks a bad spider gear or pinion gear in the rear differential. And referred me to a local transmission...
I was watching the video again and thinking the same thing. I’ll check again but I think it’s all ok. The way the noise sounds. It sounds like the teeth on a shaft are catching and then slipping. I honestly feel like it’s a t case or center diff issue. And not in the rear
Thanks for the support. I checked out tmzperformance, but was skeptical on the site just because it makes me nervous to send off a part and wait for it to get mailed back. And I wasn’t sure if the replaced gears. But I’ll check it out
Just wanted to update. Had a shop look at it. They said I have either a broken spider gear or pinion gear in the rear diff. The problem is that no place carries the parts anymore. Not even Mitsubishi and I can’t find a used one.
Just wanted to update. Had a shop look at it. They said I have either a broken spider gear or pinion gear in the rear diff. The problem is that no place carries the parts anymore. Not even Mitsubishi and I can’t find a used one.
Carrier bearings and u joints are good. Sounds like something is catching and then slipping at the transfer case. I have an extra transfer. I’m probably going to have to swap them out to know for sure
So yea. Update time. Checked all of the carrier bearings and they are fine. U joints are all fine with no play. It sounds and feels like something is catching and then slipping at the transfer case
Yea I’ll check both. I’m also going to check the u-joint. I’m pretty sure the carrier bearing is fine. When it makes the noise I feel like the axle is binding at the transfer case. And then slipping to make the clang noise