It's a tough call. I work in car rental and I routinely see customers of all ages, especially 60 years and older. They all swear they can drive, but for some folks I've had to spend upwards of 15 minutes explaining how the vehicle operates. I can't deny them a vehicle due to their age, even...
Dustin is still around. It's just that he didn't have the time to keep up the site.DSM wizards hare hard to find out here because we're so geographically isolated. Additionally, the DSMers in Hawaii seriously love their cars... otherwise we wouldn't have shipped them out here.
I had the same problem when the o-rings failed on my dipstick. Under a big boost spike, the oil pressure was high enough to blast the dipstick out and the high oil pressure shot oil all over the engine bay.
Just be prepared, in your search for the perfect 60-foot, to save some money for your new upgrade... clutch.It took switching over to an ACT2600 for me to get a 1.598, but that's just me.
Just be prepared, in your search for the perfect 60-foot, to save some money for your new upgrade... clutch.It took switching over to an ACT2600 for me to get a 1.598, but that's just me.
As it turns out, the old (vintage 2006) PTE SCM34 has a journal bearing center that is oil cooled, so the water line was capped off.Is there a better (and cheap) way to cap it rather than using the hose/bolt/cap system we both seem to use? The hose/cap method looks ghetto and the caps I...
Not to beat a dead horse, but check your radiator cap seal. Not just the seal on the cap, but also check the place where the gasket comes in contact with the metal. Older radiator necks will corrode and prevent the rubber ring on the cap from creating a good seal.Just saying.
Use the appropriate-sized wrench to loosen the adjusting bolt (cruise control switch), which will raise the pedal up to the desired height. Seven inches is the standard size for many vehicles by default.Adjust the clevis pin's free play by adjusting the push rod located behind the pedal. Use...
Basically the radio isn't getting the voltage it needs to keep the 12v constant wire energized. If the fuses are okay and the car starts just fine, I'd say that a connection or wire is the culprit.
Excellent advice from agentorange. Go here first and follow the instructions. Only after you've located and corrected all of your hoses, clamps, and connections should you attempt to try tackling the throttle body.
You are correct, sir. I just googled a pic and it was the first one to pop up. It's essentially identical to the B&M one that I have in my car, which I highly recommend. I was amazed that it dropped the height enough to actually see the display on the radio. :thumb:
Finding parts on-island is tough, although O'Reilly sometimes surprises me. Unless it's a completely generic/universal part, we've gotta order them. OEM parts from Satan in Pearl City are only ordered on Mondays and Wednesdays.
B&M makes one that shortens both the throw and the height of the lever. They're tough to find nowadays because they've been discontinued. I'm sure you can find them on eBay or Amazon.
This (unfortunately) is the best pic I have. I highlighted the two screws that I used in red. I also used a bit of foam weatherstrip (not pictured) to close the gap where it meets the dash.HTH!
I used to run just water but switched back to coolant when they showed me the crud that came out of the rad. I'm as cheap as any DSM'r, but the anti-corrosion characteristics of coolant will greatly decrease the clogging in the future. I want to get another 111k miles out of the car.
That's why I did it while I had a shop blasting out my radiator. It's a lot easier when the rad and fans are out of the way. It's still time consuming, but easier. Good luck.
Instructions1. Enter your Eclipse with your garage remote control and your ignition key. Insert the key in the ignition.2. Press and hold the two outer buttons on your car's on-board system until the system's red LED light begins flashing. This may take as long as 20 seconds.3...
I had something similar a few months ago.Started with flushing the cooling system, making sure any air was out of the system.
Replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses.
Replaced the thermostat.
Replaced the radiator cap.
Still had problems.Replaced the housing for the radiator cap...
Turns out it was the reverse switch on the tranny. Went to O'Reilly's and (amazingly) they had the part on the shelf.For those who haven't had the particular pleasure of people not realizing that you're backing up, see the pics below.The switch is located directly below...
So after thoroughly inspecting and testing my cooling system, I've narrowed down the fact that I keep overheating to a failing head gasket.Is there a parts list out there that would cover all the things I need to buy while I'm taking this beast apart?
I originally had no intention of de-badging the car.But when I went to a car wash and the sticker actually flew off when I hit it with the pressure washer, I figured if it didn't want to stick around why have any markings?
I've had the HRC FMIC installed for almost 4 years now, so I doubt that the overheating problem would wait until this time to rear it's ugly head. Especially considering that I had the car when I lived in New Orleans, it's a lot cooler in Honolulu.That said, I refuse to give up creature...
So while I was waiting for all you DSM gurus to chime in on my other post, I thought I'd give this kit a try.Sure, doing this while trying to figure out all the other problems with my car is like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic, but I think you might give it a try.Pass side...