That doesn't look like a factory light at all to me. It could've been a nitrous arm light or shift light, who knows.

If you can afford it you should do both. My buddy has a FWD and he's going to the equal half shafts to avoid breaking the driver side axle. From what I have heard it does make them more stable as well.

If you're willing to get one shipped to you there are a couple of pretty nice 1g's for sale in Colorado.

To avoid coolant temp problems with the A/C condenser you can run a smaller intercooler instead of getting something way bigger than what you will use. Also look at getting two big electric fans and a 3 row radiator. You should be fine with a good cooling setup.

Did you check inside the ECU to make sure there is no burnt solder point. If I remember right theres only 2 pins on the ECU wiring you have to swap to put a 91 ECU into a 90, but I can't remember which ones they are off the top of my head. If you have a spare MAF I would put it in just to see if...

If you buy it you should looking at going E-85 if its available to you. And with high compression you'll want to stay with lower boost. But you will make more power on lower boost with the high compression compared to the same boost level on a lower compression piston.

If nothing changed when you unplugged the MAF that may be your issue. On one of my cars back in the day it wouldn't start but instead it just cranked forever. Put in a new MAF and it fired right up.

where did you get that plug wire cover? I love the carbon fibre.

this would be cool if it works, I have always been a fan of the b body talon tail lights and rear bumper

I agree, sounds like a pcv problem, I would check that first.

amazon typically has pretty good deals from what I have seen. JNZ tuning may have some of the random clips and things that can be hard to find if you need those as well.

any idea where I can get a 1g 7bolt pilot bearing? It seems everywhere only has the 1g 6bolt or the 2g 7bolt bearings.

I've always wanted to go to the shootout, Nice Vid!

I assume you got this resolved by now but if not you could build a bracket that bolts up where the stock waste gate went and run a rod to the flapper that will hold it shut and if you want to go back you just swap them out.

The best way to learn is to just starting pulling it off. Take your time and try not to break any connectors. Luckily 4G harnesses are pretty simple.

Its hard to weld on heads that are old and oil soaked. But it looks like it should be fine to me.

With my auto I tend to change trans fluid and filter while its sitting in the winter. I either put a maintainer on the battery while it sits or disconnect it even if I am starting it up every week or couple weeks. Maintainer is definitely the way to go so you don't lose any settings and seems to...

from what I have seen most people need the spacer to push the turbo out away from the bottom motor mount and the block. You can trim that mount if it hits.

The trans from the 1g would be your best bet, you will have to find a 1g 7bolt flexplate. The 2g flex plate won't work because the offset is to much and will damage the trans pump.

The FWD fuel pump assembly goes into the back of the tank and then a bolt from under the tank goes in and holds the unit from the bottom. They're pretty specifically designed to the fwd tank.

I would try getting the sockets made for stripped bolts. If that doesn't work you can always weld a nut to it but make sure you let it cool down before trying to move it. The heat will make the bolt expand in the flywheel and will be harder to remove until it cools.

I would strongly suggest getting a good Wideband before messing with anything. AEM has always made the best Widebands in my opinion. They are a small price to pay compared to running a motor lean and having to build a new one.

This could go both ways, I have seen cars get tuned while having minor issues and then when they are resolved it will mess the tune up. Or if a sensor goes bad or you get boost leaks they could cause the tune to be off.

Autos can be fun but you have to build the motor the right way. Its not like building a manual, with an auto all the parts need to really work together well and big turbos are not the answer. If you build an auto with a big turbo that has a lot of lag you will be disappointed unless its a...

I had the same problem. switched to non protruding plugs and gapped them at 0.025 and it went away.

I may have read this wrong but it sounds like the car could be running really rich in boost. it wouldn't let me look at the log so I couldn't see the AFR's.

from my experience buying a car that isn't running is either something really simple to fix or turns into a huge mess. If you are new to building cars starting with something that runs well and then modifying from there is your best bet. unless you have unlimited amounts of money to spend.

unless you're driving the car hard right before you're done driving you don't need to let it idle. I've never ran a turbo timer in anything I have built and I have never had it cause turbo issues.

I am putting a 1g 7bolt motor into my 91 GSX auto while I finish building my 6bolt so that I can drive the car this season. I can't find anything for the 1g bolt for sale. I know I will need a flex plate out of a 92.5-94 and I will need a pilot bushing for a 1g 7bolt. Is there anything else I'm...

Derek232 submitted a new DSM Profile :1991 Auto GSXRead more about this vehicle here...

Derek232 submitted a new DSM Profile :1991 Auto GSXRead more about this vehicle here...

So how do the 1.6 heads compare to the 2.0 heads? I've heard it can raise the compression because the cylinder relief is smaller. Do they take different valves, springs or anything else?

I have a feeling it isn't a 2.0 head

I'm doing a 6bolt bottom end with a 7bolt head on my auto 1g. Just picked up a 7bolt head and the casting numbers on it are Y3 and then underneath the Y3 there is a 5. I've tried searching around and haven't come up with anything on what the head came off of. Just want to make sure it's going to...

i may leave mine to just shifting it manually but I feel like mine has a slight delay in 1-2 shift and I want to minimize that as much as possible

whats up guys, I just bought a 1g with an auto trans. I'm new to the forums so I don't know if this is the right place to post this or not. So the trans is built and has a manual valve body and I was looking at getting a shift box for it but I didn't know if it would work with the manual valve...