you could test the voltage on your IAC and actually you can take it out of the back of the throttle body and turn the key to the on position and see it move in and out if dosnt move it's bad if it moves and shoots like a rocket and brakes apart like mine did before it's obviously bad. As for the...
will do appreciate the advice i
Good thing I haven't took it all the way apart yet it that would suck if it turned out to be something else thanks again
well since you ask i will ask you if you think that my guess is plausible? i bled the clutch to make sure there was o air in the lines and that checked out good and i know the clutch is stuck engaged because i cannot select gears with out grinding i dot have as much pressure in the pedal as i...
well the only things that could cause vibration like that would be: your tires unbalanced or worn with flat or dimple spots, also vibration could be caused by worn brakes pads and or rotors, if your alinement is off that could cause vibration, or if your clutch plates starting to go or is worn...
sounds like to me your losing compression vacume leak or your being choked by too much air my car did that once for a period of time
and i had a crazy idol issue but in your case mybe your IAC is bad witch could cause excessive air flow or not enough depending on if its stuck open or closed its...
i had the same problem exactly. i replaced the IAC and i replaced the TPS and cleaned it just like you did and still had that high idol
i met a guy who was a DSM expert and he told me to replace the throttle body so i did and it fixed the problem. so if i were you id do that. i think what i...
I'm currently in the process of replacing my clutch I'm almost sure that the release bearing went bad. the other day some punk in a honda was trying to show off so i went to show him that for a my non turbo could eat his car any day, well lol not that day. iv had a feeling that it was going bad...
I did a cylinder replacement on my 97 gs and it wasn't that bad but the answer to your question i just left the engine in the car pulled the front and passenger side motor brackets and that gave me some wiggle room to get the job done but it was still kinda hard to get that stupid plastic cover...
anyways I took the switch completely apart today and found that a small plastic piece that is made to slide the switch back and forth when you pull the lever was broken insid. I used JB weld to glue the piece together and fixed it for now who knows how long it works but I'll deal with it then lol
Your header will work fine with the crack the only thing it will do is relase more toxins into the air and sound loud and shitty but won't hurt unless it is a turbo in witch case you'd have a boost leak
You said you checked power to coil pack and tested none but did you check continuity? Possible brake in the wiring before that point causing you to receive no power?
If your head gasket had a leak you would experience loss of compression causing rough idol, you would also feel a loss of power when accelerating and your car would run like crap , if it even ran. Either you have compression or not. for a head gasket to leak like that and the motor still...
Now that I think of it it wouldn't be that bad considering all you have to do is release tension to your timing belt to get down to the pump and when you it back together all you have to do is timing. And in fact I think the hardest part about it all would be to get to get That stupid...
Well if you are lead to believe your water pump has an issue There are two ways to test your water pump to see if it's bad one way is to loosen the tension of the belt then grab the water pump pulley and try to rock it up and down there's any slack the new bearings are shot and the pump is bad...
Sounds like a fuse or relay is no good or brake in wiring. id check fuses first and replace if any are bad then with a volt meter check continuity to both your fuel cut off switch and starter switch. If you get no continuity in a wire then there's a breake in the circuit (more then likely at a...
Well your map sensor records manifold pressure and converts it to a voltage output witch then signals the PCM witch then tells you injectors to input the correct amount of fuel to mix with the intake of air creating your air/fuel mixture. I'd check supply voltage just to see if that sensor is...
I know they used the 2.0 420a motor in a few different cars and some of the 420a motors have the intake ports in front and some have intake ports in the back. I found over hours of research on this particular motor that the specs between the two are almost identical.