piston #1 so far.

Correct. i purchased these rods from Keith back in 2009. As we all know life jumps in the way of car projects but i am relentless to get the car back on the road.I am fly cutting one piston at a time. Only did one so far and I am good with the results. Only the intake side of the piston...

wait, why would aluminum rod engines require .030" clearance and normal steel rods require .080"? everywhere online says aluminum will stretch more due to thermal expansion

i have manely pistons and groden aluminum rods. i know factory limits on piston to valve clearance is .080" but what are the clearance recomended for aluminum rod setups

question. at what level of overlap have you guys seen the lopy cam sound go away? i want this car to pull hard to 8500+ rpms but i also want the tap happy cam sound.

i know my old 35R technology doesnt like shaft speeds after 28psi of boost. plan on keeping it around 20 - 25psi. How much power did you make with your 3586? Just excited that i can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel with this project

my turbo is an original "from 2005" garret GT35R with 82AR and zero miles on it. life gets in the way of car projects. this is my intake manifold. I know currently this stock throttle body may hinder performance but thats an easy upgrade.

trying to follow youtube and internet forums completely overcomplicated degreeing cams. the car is a 5speed with twin disc clutch and shep stage 4 trans.honestly i want the SBC lope. i want this car to be overly obnoxious. i know 4cyl wont have 500 ft.lbs of torque at 1500rpms and...

called BC and had me strait in 15min. to make things simple. turn till .050 = opening event. then keep turning till .050 again = closing event. my points are:I.O. 8° I.C. 32°E.O. 38° E.C. 2°The helpful calculator link from above with these numbers give me a LSA of 105° and an overlap...

called BC and had me strait in 15min. to make things simple. turn till .050 = opening event. then keep turning till .050 again = closing event. my points are:I.O. 8° I.C. 32°E.O. 38° E.C. 2°The helpful calculator link from above with these numbers give me a LSA of 105° and an overlap...

i used the calculator and herw are my numbers from the exhaust cam. E.Open 40 BBDC. E.Close 292 BTDC. that equates to a centerline 256 BTDC.anyway i slice this my max lift is my max lift and .050 later supposed to be my closing event. with these calculations my exhaust duration is 510...

i zero'd my gauge. turned till i had .050 lift. recoreded that number as my exhaust opening event. then turned till max lift. recorded that numberas my centerline. zero'd the gauge again then kept turning till .050 again for my closing event.and still numbers dont add up. here is the...

i understand adjustable cam gears can make up the difference and are a must to zero in cams to their manufacturer specks.i used the J Racing timing belt install kit and the exhaust cam lines up a half tooth off. I have been fighting with this for a month. engine is out of the car and...

thats just it. when i measure max lift and rotate .050 forwards and backwards...my centerline number is no where close to the cam card.

thats just it. when i measure max lift and rotate .050 forwards and backwards...my centerline number is no where close to the cam card.

so i have read all the forums. watched all of boosted beaver and jafro videos. purchased all of the cam degree tools and made the zero lash lifters...ect. All of this is on a 6bolt aluminum rod engine. Manley pistons. 1mm oversize valves on intake and exhaust. head has been resurfaced...

i am not a machinist but it seems anymore milling would cut into the seats. i also have 1mm oversize valves to go in if possible.

cleaning cylinder head and found pitts in cylinder 3 and 4. will this create detonation or hot spots? would this be fine to run as is?this is from a donor engine that idled well but i have no idea of the rest. the plugs in the engine looked lean and had an FP manifold and i believe an FP...

never mind, factory cams have the same runnout.

double checked with another gauge and its between 23 and 25 thousanths

.022 in run out.

so, before you guys flame. i sat these BC288 cams in my cylinder head. intake spins freely but notice its warped while spinning. seems like right in the middle is where the warp is. this doesnt seem normal and has me concerned. yes it spins freely but i am thinking of the bad harmonics and...

on the kiggly page, the steel retainer beehives will work with factory valve seats. does this mean the seats need to be changed to use the titanium retainer beehives?

what are the drawbacks of steel vs titanium on high mileage builds?

Guessing you mean the original Kiggly Beehives? Not the street Kigglys nor the full race?

Springs is the only thing keeping me from closing up this engine.GRP Aluminum Rods Manley Pistons ARP fasteners BC288 Cams SMIM GT35R Shep stage 4 trans 8.8 Explorer Live axel 4-Link back half.Building this car for Drag Week and weekend warrior fun. This is a 2.0 engine, will be spinning...

the valve springs just have lite surface rust which can easily be wiped off. i guess only way to truly see if these are indeed the wrong caps are to put the cams in torque them and see if the spin freely.I know these arent caps for this head because the casting is not the same as a spare...

wrong cam caps. this ebay head came with caps that have L engraved on the caps for the intake side and R engraved on the exhaust side

Been having this head for a while and even had my 1mm over size Crower valvetrain installed in it. Fast forward to present; i am assembling the engine and notice a couple of issues. 1. Grooves in Cam Journals 2. incorrect cam caps 3. a whole in the HLA housing port.yes caps can be line...

yeah i'm thinking the same. i am feeling the DSM blues. roadblock after roadblock

putting this 6 bolt engine together and too off too much on the top ring. measured ring gap with piston squaring the ring half way in the cylinder and measured.053manley pistons 85.5 mm. this is an aluminum rod block that will endure serious punishment. with the top ring this big, is...

if you think about it, none of the really fast cars at drag week have any creature comforts. Majority of cars there are full out race cars with a plate and turn signals.i see it two ways. A DSM drag week car has to be purpose built. Our cars dont have box steel frames and big block V8...

well its aparent that we give these 4G63 engines complete hell on a weekly basis...what about the drivetrain?Auto or Manual. which will take the abuse of 8 sec passes all week during drag week?

so back on topic. personally, i think a 74mm turbo or better fully built block with all the trimmings TH400 or Glide 8.8 or 9" live axel RWD conversionand now you have a Drag week DSM

there are several different classes to compete in. seeing how RWD converted DSM's make 8 second passes look easy, aswell as Auto AWD cars...do you think our cars can take the abuse of the Drag Week challenge?

Question is, is this possible? wanna here your guys thoughts. I am curious to know what parts are preventing our cars from competing in this event. What type of build do you guys recommend for a DSM to compete at drag week? Please no flame answers like "Just buy Buchars race car..."Which...

i opted for the 8.8 because the car audio installer/self proclaimed tuner that put in the rear fuel cell didnt refill the 4 bolt rear diff and of course the diff locked up.then on that installers personal car, he was snapping rear axles left and right.atleast on street tires and an 8.8 i...

HOLY SH$T!!! now see this is what i am talking about. DSM's like that are far and few in between. I search high and low for this unspoken knowledge of sub 8 sec AWD's. plenty of knowledge on this forum, certain topics take days of research to find out.Not flaming any member with 8 second...

it was just a thought because i have never seen a John Force style AWD DSM burnout. i am building my first DSM but have been on the scene since 98. i mean it was just a thought, only seen very few DSM jump out the gate promod style.Just an informative discusion. Plenty on this forum will...

we all know the problem of properly warming up 4 slicks in an AWD DSM. Anyone ever tried spraying Nos in 1st gear or 2nd gear to warm up the tires? FWD guys do 2nd gear burnouts all the time, do you guys think spraying 1st gear in the pit would sufficiently warm up the tires?

wait whats the difference in the flywheel? will the gst pressure plate work with the gsx flywheel?

the cobra calipers dont have the Bling factor of the CTSV's

so there are links to 3g mc and booster into a 1g...any difference for the same swap into a 2g?Also anyone has correct part numbers for the 3g mc and booster. RockAuto and the rest list tons of different part numbers.Are we basically looking for Non ABS NON Traction Control Master...

Will Cadillac 6piston calipers work with 18" wheels? my buddy has a bunch of cadillac limo parts cars. i know the breaking system is much beefier for those passenger vehicles...would the mods be the same as the CTSV kit?

any difference in the fwd and awd mastercylinder? i am doing the ABS delete on my AWD talon and a big brake kit on the front. wanted to know if there is any difference between the 2 cars brake mastercylinder since i am using a FWD proportioning valve.this is a drag car so not concerned with ABS

will be using gas, the E85 pump is a 1.5 hours away from me. No bueno. Will water/ windshield washer fluid mix get the job done?

yeah this will be my DD, spirited driving occasionally but not canyon runs. Maybe a silly question, but if the water meth mix sits too long, will the mix seperate? I mean if you use 3 quarts in 2 fill ups...5 gallons would last a month or longer potentiinally

seriously considering going meth injection on my streetbuild 35r talon Tsi. Question is, how long will that 1 gallon of water meth mix last? Not much talk on Meth injection here. I have an extra 5gallon fuel cell considering on using for my Meth/water container. On average how often are you...

I have a Electromotive Tec3 (purple box) and just recently picked up a 98eclipse from the auctions. The million dollar question is: is the electromotive trigger wheel kit for 1st gen eclipse compatible with the 7bolt 4G63? their website states 1st gen only in the captions but i cant find...

excuse my ignorance. where is there a write up or link to this "ECUFLASH". also is this coil on plug setup legite or some ebay knockoff?