I'm looking for a local machine shop that's familiar with 4G63 engines. I need the rod bolts changed and then have the rods reconditioned to begin with.Any idea what that would cost?
Here's pictures of the what happened to the engine I'm replacing.Cracked piston is cylinder #2 and the spun rod bearing is cylinder #3.I did a compression test before the spun rod bearing and cylinder #2 was 30 psi lower but after adding a cap of oil was the same as all the others so I...
I have an engine from a '98 that I want to put into my 95 GSX.I noticed the motor from the '98 has what looks like a cam angle sensor on the intake cam?My question is what do I need to do in order for the '98 motor to work with my '95 GSX?I failed to find the correct search terms to find...
Yea the cheap ones dull easily. A good burr should require minimal pressure to cut. If you need to remove a lot of material in a certain area try moving the burr in and out instead of side to side. Be careful, moving the burr in and out removes metal rapidly.
I get all my burrs from McMaster Carrhttp://www.mcmaster.com/#rotary-deburring-tools/=13kxymyAnd my previous statement was incorrect, Single cut removes less material but leaves a smoother finish, double cut removes more material.
I used a pneumatic die grinder with a carbide burr for the material removal and the grinding stone pictured for smoothing things up afterwards. If you use a pneumatic die grinder make sure it's a decent one with no shaft play or the bit will be bouncing around all over the work and you'll end...
Just passing along information, but thanks for the mention. I'm glad that you found a solution for your problem, now you can get a little bit more enjoyment out of your car. :hellyeah:I agree with you, these cars are very rewarding to work on!
Call any local dismantler and ask for the part, when they tell you they don't have it ask if they know some who does. Most dismantlers are on a party line with all the other ones in the area and they can usually find someone who has the part. At least that's how it works where I live.
Have you pulled the ECU and opened it up to check for leaky capacitors? Leaky capacitors can cause idle problems, the first DSM I owned wouldn't idle when I bought it. Turned out to be leaky capacitors in the ECU, a couple dollar repair if your comfortable desoldering and soldering capacitors.
When you test drive it make sure that you get it up to a decent speed (above 60 MPH). I've test driven cars and then bought them only to get on the freeway and discover that the front end is shot out.
I just finished dropping the rear sub frame in preparation of changing the rear diff bushings.Anyone have experience pressing the new bushings in? What did you use between the bushing and the hammer to drive them in without marring up the aluminum part of the bushing?