Great material. Thank you for sharing this.

How many liters of water+coolant go inside the '98 Eclipse GST colling system?

Whats the easiest way to disassemble the lower (turbo) heat shield? It looks bad and I want to paint it. I took all the bolts off, but the shield hits either the dipstick housing, alternator, engine block, o2 sensor... What should come off to get this done? Thanks

Oh s**t, I found it :sosad:

More carb cleaner and intense frowning unfortunately didn't make it better! ROFL PCV valve is leaking sometimes less, sometimes more. If the VC side of the PCV is down leaks less (because of the gravity helping to force the ball against its seat), otherwise air flows free. Probably the PCVs...

The first time it was leaking air from intake to VC direction. The second time didn't. I had used carb cleaner. Anyway, I will give another shot letting it sit on the carb cleaner and test it again with 13psi. I'd replace it with a new one but I can't find it in here. So if cleaning it won't...

Did some tests yesterday and I couldn`t conclude if the PCV it's working fine or not. I understand the intake manifold, as long as turbo doesn`t build boost, is under vaccum and suppose to keep the PCV valve open and draw the gases from blow by. This way I guess is working fine, like I tryed to...

I'm suspicious about engine "ventilation" (pcv maybe or bad crankcase ventilation) beacuse when I go down hill without pressing throttle, the engine sounds weird and it brakes the car more than used to. Also when accelerating, turbo sounds loud but the car goes slow.

It's happening the same to me, plus it leaks from the gasket all around. The place where the spark plug wires are in gets wet from oil as soon as I go for a short road drive. The engine is all stock, the cover was never open so I believe the gasket, cover and bolts torque must be the way it...

If someone still have this doubt, I put 225/50 on the stock rims and had no problems at all. By the way, I still have a pair of Goodyear RSA 205/55 that came factory stock in the car (DOT 97). Comparing the new 225/50 with the old 205/55, weirdly their widht are the same. So definetely, there'll...

Yep, i had tested this possibility on a bench. It works, but the taillight will flash the opposite the front/dash/fender lights flash. Going ahead with this, I tryed to connect a second flasher relay on the wires that go to the taillights, switching a NC/NO relay another 12V source, the way to...

Tell me about it man! If there's a simpler solution I'd go for it. Although I did a nice job (modesty apart), simpler is better. I'm not very familiar to electrics/electronics, so help me to understand how this work. I suppouse to put the diode before the splice in the brake wires, not...

Temperature gauge shows the needle right in the midle of the range. Coolant level is where it suppouse to be. Turbo shields and hood shield are all in. But just driving around like grandma makes bay hot as hell. The drivers wheel well, for instance, gets hot enough you can't leave your hand over...

I did the convertion from JDM to USDM taillights, making the turn signal overwrite the brake signal in the bulbs the side you want to turn. It's not an easy thing to do if you're not a professional like myself, specially if you don't want to cut any stock wire, but if someone wants it too, I can...

After two years studying, testing, cleaning and replacing things in my cars engine, I fixed it giving a real bad tight on the alternators belt. My episodes of bogging happened when I hit the throttle the exact same moment the AC compressor was comming in. It's something that you can't notice...

...much more simple than that! I gave a hit on tightening the alternator belt and VOILÀ! :hellyeah: For the record, It wasn't really loose, but compared to the other belts, the alternators demands a much more stronger tension. Thanks everyone.

My cruise control stopped working just like that. Main buttom yellow light was comming on, green CRUISE light on the instrument cluster not. My case is related to the pedal switch. The switch was ok, but I believe some kind of plastic/rubber spacer between the pedal plate and the switch broke...

My cruise control stopped working just like that. Main buttom yellow light was comming on, green CRUISE light on the instrument cluster not. My case is related to the pedal switch. The switch was ok, but I believe some kind of plastic/rubber spacer between the pedal plate and the switch broke...

WOW its been longer than a year?! OMGThe new plug wires solved that sputtering performance that I faced in the middle of this thread, but I still had those sporadic huge power missings I wrote about in the first post. I worked hard and read a lot the last months, fixed boost leaks through...

Well, this certainly is something I can try. I have the electrical service manual for eclipse & eclipse spyder 1997 vol. 2. Do you know if the diagrams in the pages 278 and 280 are trustful?

I have the Infinity system all stock, but since I bought the car, the rear speekers don't work. The rear speekers themself are good and the wires that go from the amp to them are good too. What should I look next? DIN cable? Amp outputs? HU outputs? ...and by the way, when I unplugged the amp...

#11 This project has expired

Did you find out what was your problem?

I've got the same issue: I parked the car, my girlfriend open the door and the dome light was working. Shut off the engine. She came back in again, dome light on with door opened and off when door closed and I turned on the engine. After this no more dome lights, even those 2 bulbs the comes on...

Yesterday my dome lights stopped working. They were just working, then I started the engine and they went off forever. My car doesn't have sunroof, just three lights, one when you open the door and two that turns on by buttons. Checked the fuses related to it and they are fine. Radio...

I'm stuck on this! There's a way to test the amp itself on a bench, connecting it to a radio, 12v power, ground and a generic speeker; but what to do with this DIN connection... will see. I tryed contact with Infinity people to see if they would troubleshoot this, but their answers are not...

ALL RIGHT!!! Mine is in #11 march :D

What's up with this calendar thing? Is it posted somewhere, is it mailed to our adress, it must be payed, or what? I sent pictures aplying for the 2017 calendar, but never got any news about it or even an answer where I could check for it. Sorry I didn't get it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rhayZyYsvZGQR1bu2 Actually I was asking this, the position of the wires in the plug. But I took a closer look to your video yesterday and I think I figure it out. Only the green and yellow must be switched in the drawing. Anyways, i did voltage readings on the din plug...

Hi zipfast1997. I still have the stock Infinity system in my car. Wiring don't look they were ever touched. My front tweeters and door speekers work ok, but my rear speekers don't, never ever. Until now, i checked for continuity all the speekers cables, positive and ground from radiohead to amp...

okey dokey

What I meant was if these white signs should light up, not really the buttons. https://photos.app.goo.gl/247KBful2KWqRtQJ3 https://photos.app.goo.gl/qjDqTO5NaHuxlOb22

Does these buttons, driver side door and passenger side door, suppoused to light up when parking lights on? Maybe my bulbs are burned out?

Thanks 91talonts1, but yesterday I took a time watching lots of videos in youtube. Also did something that suppouse to be the first thing to do: read the manual :ohdamn: Turns out you guys are right. This damn bulb really lights up when key on ACC position, whenever e-brake up or down, and...

I'm getting embarassed on this! I have this car three years and blows my mind I've never noticed that. All the cars I drove, I can't remember it working like this. Just don't make sense. Would you care of making a short movie of you car dash warning lights during the engine start procedure...

Just before start openning up the alternador, I gave a try on checking those three diodes on the gauge instrument cluster plate, right on the trails between brake, charging system and oil pressure warnings. Still no donut! They're fine.

Ok, the issue is related to the alternator. I unpluged it yesterday and the brake warning light went back on its regular working again. It just lighted if the hand brake was pulled or if I push the brake fluid reservoir float down. Next step: disassemble it, clean it and test it on a bench...

Mike_GST submitted a new DSM Profile :GST 1998Read more about this vehicle here...

PlanZero and Wilsonf4i before I started messing with the hazard relay, the brake warning light went on only when the handbrake was pulled, whenever key on ACC position or ON (engine working). As far as I remember, all cars work this way. I checked the handbrake and the fluid level switches and...

I did A LOT of research, some tests, multimeter readings and I can't find what is wrong. That same light that comes on when you pull the handbrake (emergency brake), is lighting up when I turn the key to ACC position, doesn't matter if the handbrake is pulled or released. All the cases I read...

What's the specs of this bulbs, let say the fog lights switch one.

here it goes:

Just trying to figure this out: why is recomended 30* after TDC? Since the overlap happens between 21* Before TDC and 15* After TDC, wouldn't be the boost leak test recomended from 15* ATDC to 21* BBDC, in other words 15* to 159* ATDC crank angle range?

Since I bought the car 3 years ago I'm experiencing randomly weak pulls when going from partial throttle to WOT, mainly in first and second gears. Maybe it happens in other gears, I just don't notice then. One particular thing is that as soon as I release the throtlle and go WOT again...

I have a 1998 GST and my EGR valve has 2 nipples. I applied vacuum to the top one and it holded 20inHg but the bottom one can't hold any. What should I expect or how should I test the second nipple? What is that for?Sometimes my car accelerates very slow when I go from partial throttle to WOT...

ALL RIGHT!!! I found out why my buzzer wasn't working. One of the previous owners cut the orange wire of the drivers door switch. I put it back together and buzzer and key ring light came on again. I believe the red wire is for the dome and floor lights. Ground is made by the screw. Hope this...

All my lights work fine but the ring around the ignition barrel and if it suppoused to sound a warning buzzer, my don't work also. Is there any connector inside the dash that could some past owner disconnected for some reason?

I'm having the same exact thing for a long time. WOT car pulls damn fine. If i'm partial throttle and then build acceleration slowly up to WOT it bogs bad, even with turbo spooling normal. In this same bogging episode, If I just release the accelerator and go straight WOT, the car reacts full...

I have a question. I took a picture a little too far from the car. But since it has 4600 pixels wide, I could cut the picture the way to make the car image larger and still meeting the rule of 2500 pixels. Should I worry about this or will you work the picture to find its best fit on your own...