February, 2017 – Brake RebuildDuring my first drive my brakes decided to pay me back for my negligence to attend to them. My drive from work consisted of driving about 2.5 miles, parking for 10 minutes to cool down, and driving the remaining 2.5 miles, never going over 35 mph. By the time I...

Thanks for the advice. I did inspect the valve for damage and could not visibly see anything and the keeper channel still felt sharp and clean. I've had the valve cover off a few times since I started driving it again and have checked it for any movement. The damage to the keepers was likely...

November, 2016 through January, 2017 – First drivesFor my first drive I just took the Beast around in my neighborhood. I just wanted to get her moving to know if there would be any issues that I should immediately consider before taking her on the road with other vehicles. At the end of this...

October, 2016 – Buttoning this Beast up....I thinkSo there were a couple things I had left to be able to drive the Beast. One thing I noticed after I began adding fluids (of course after I put the transmission back in the car) was the right axle seal was leaking ever so slightly. I guessed it...

August, 2016 – Some more maintenanceWhile the Beast was still on jackstands (as if she's ever coming off them....) I went through the front suspension with some new parts. First I cleaned up the control arms and gave them a fresh coat with low gloss black. Then started putting poly bushings...

September, 2016 – Leaky sealsNow that she was running I had the fun task of finding all the things that I couldn't find, or just didn't find, when she was not running. After letting her run and idle a few times and pulling parts off and checking them, she developed the notorious high idle /...

Summer 2016 – First StartAt some point between May and September I managed to get the engine bolted back up to the transmission and dropped back into the car. First I had to clean up the trans (fail on the blast cabinet...) and give it some solid coats of Duplicolor Engine primer and aluminum...

May, 2016 – Final engine assemblyOnce I got started on the timing belt job I immediately ran into a problem with the timing belt tools that I bought. The cam holder had been machined incorrectly and would not fit. I shot an email to Extreme PSI and sent them a picture of what was going on...

January, 2016 – Front case and block cleanupWith the top end sorted, I now needed to tackle the bottom end. I knew I needed to replace the front and rear main seals and reseal the oil pan. I decided to get a new front case gasket as well and check out the oil pump.I started by pulling the...

January, 2016 – Don't drop a valve, don't drop a valve, don't drop a valve.....So the first thing up on my list was the reason I stopped driving the Beast 12 years ago. Looking at it now it would have made a lot of sense to just fix this when I found it but you know how that goes, or maybe you...

The car will be fine to sit for a few days with the mixture. You'll want to do another oil change about 100 miles after you get it fixed anyway so that will clean out what leftover stuff is in there.As for getting the block checked out, more information is needed for a better answer but here...

well done! awesome shirt, by the way....

December, 2015 – Transmission and Engine ExtractionGetting the transmission out once I had everything else out took no time. Just pulling the transmission to engine bolts, transmission mount and then wrestling it out using a floor jack as an extra hand. I do want to put a reminder in here for...

December, 2015 – General Condition and Damage AssessmentNow that I had the cabin cleaned up a bit I got started on the engine bay. Remember, the car sat out in the weather for about 11 years at this point. Most of that time she didn't even have a car cover on her. I was totally expecting to...

November, 2015 – The Link and a new Gauge SetupBack when I first started wrenching on cars I had thought tuning was a black art. I remember a tuner in Arkansas had designed a throttlebody spacer and gave them out for free in exchange for dynoing the car before and after. I let him use my car...

Fall, 2015 - Interior CleaningSo for 11 years, The Beast hibernated under pine trees and a car cover in my yard. I wasn't able to keep her under the carport because my wife's car got that spot. Plus I didn't even get the car cover for her until 2013! So she grew a nice layer of sap, pine...

Check for exhaust leaks pre O2. You said no boost leaks, did you check the gasket when you did the egr delete?Also, was the battery connected when the wiring harness got damaged? What wires were involved?

These...https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=irwin+bolt+grip&rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3Airwin+bolt+gripWelding a socket / bolt to it would definitely be the most secure option but if you don't have access to a welder or can't bring the transmission to...

Fall, 2003 - 21 Splines makes a nice, smooth output shaftI got her back to my shop and up on the lift. I knew it was going to be the clutch so when I got the transmission down and saw that the clutch and flywheel looked nearly perfect I had to start thinking again. I went back and looked a...

Fall, 2003 - Hey, what's that noise?So now I had something that I knew felt fast. I had been going to our local 1000ft strip pretty often already, I figured I'd up the boost a bit and take her out with her new, bigger nose and get a new slip. Like a dipstick I upped the boost a bit more...

Fall, 2003 - A little more than stockSo other than the new stock valves and replacement water pump, the car was still pretty stock at this point. I had lowered it on Eibach springs and KYB struts. I pulled the 4.5” fart can muffler off the Eclipse and had it welded to some 2.5” piping from the...

Spring, 2003 - Timing Belt Woes and Why I hate TallahasseeI started by handling some of the maintenance issues that I noticed during the test drive. I replaced both front axles, all of the fluids, including transfer case and diff. I also checked the timing belt for wear, degradation, etc...

Summer, 2002 - My 2nd DSM, The ScoreWell, it took me about 2 years of beating the mess out of my Eclipse to figure out that she was not a fast car. I would race anything that pulled up next to me, whether the driver knew we were racing or not. I remember an old guy in a minivan actually...

My first DSM - 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS, Emerald GreenSo I'll start with a bit of my DSM history. A long, long, long time ago, when I was 16, I got my driver's license and a minimum wage paying job. So after working long enough to get something in the bank I was ready to go out looking for a...

INTRODUCTION, TABLE OF CONTENTSI've had my 1991 Eagle Talon TSi since 2002. She's always been a fun car for me and a great learning experience as far as my mechanical skills go. I've been through ups and downs with her and I don't see myself giving her spot in the garage away anytime soon...

I went with the ledaut stuff...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011B99B0I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Quite a bit less expensive than the DEI and seems to work fine. I wrapped a 3" downpipe with it. I used dupont engine primer and paint with ceramic to coat the pipe first...

Incredible story and work here. I'd love to see how the final product performs, just by itself not to mention compared to a 4g63 overhead valve! Keep us updated on your progress and if you are able to bring anything to market. Before going any further, definitely get your patent work sorted...

Absolutely amazing car, guys! Keep it up!

This might help... http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/90clutchcut

I have the 1g set. I have all of the hoses installed but haven't run the car with them yet. The hoses look fine, and will probably last. If I was doing it again though I'd spend the extra few dollars on an OEM set. Expect to do trimming on every hose, you have to use hose clamps instead of...

Look at how your clutch fork is contacting your TOB. There are tabs on the TOB that the fork sits between and there is a spring clip that holds it there. From the picture above it looks like your fork is not being held against the TOB and I don't see the spring clip. There is also a sheet...

I wouldn't put anything back together until you fix those oil leaks or else you'll be pulling the head next...When you pull it all back apart (you know, to fix the oil leaks...) just follow the vfaq or the FSM step-by-step. Don't take any short cuts, don't try to out think it. Just read...

I would run a leak down test first to confirm that it is a valve. Whatever shop you send it to would check the head and components and run a pressure test on it before any work began but it would be more cost effective to rule out rings or HG first. If you have a bent valve you will have no...

+1 Check that the vacuum line is not loose / broken. Do you have it set up for re circulation or VTA?

Ah, that makes sense. I thought we were talking about this one.https://store.snapon.com/Valve-Spring-Compressors-Compressor-Valve-Spring-Universal-P754870.aspxI definitely like the idea of the magnetic holder for the keepers on the GA tool. That thing should make it a breeze. Look out...

That one looks very similar to the euroexport tool and is $25 less. I also just found this one. There's a demo video on YouTube. Just wonder if anyone has actually used it and if it is that easy. If so, it's even cheaper, snap on brand so lifetime warranty and would be much faster than a bolt on...

Echo. Pull the cams and rockers and lifters to get access. This is a good time to replace the valve seals too if they are suspect or have been in there for a while at all. Have assembly grease handy and a couple magnetic screw drivers for putting the keepers back in and plug up all the oil...

First off, LOVE seeing you beat up on some mustangs! I haven't gotten to read through your whole build yet but from what I've read you've done some awesome things! Keep it up.For the springs, it's not bad. I use a compression tester fitting and 100psi without any issues. Just make sure your...

That makes sense, Steve. I read it as crank sprocket instead of pulley. Although, considering the original post is for the car not starting, you think this could be a possibility? If it's jumped timing, would have to be a lot and not even sure it's possible to jump that many teeth, he could...

No, 10deg off is not acceptable. There's no reason I can think of that you should not have your marks lined up, performance related. You need to redo your mechanical timing then handle your base timing.These might help.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjusting-timing-with-cas.354891/...

I agree with Jacolu on what you're looking for and what you have. If you're looking for something to handle a lot of power, probably 400+ then go with an upgrade rebuild. If you're looking for something stock or stockish, have the tools, and are capable you can replace the worn out parts...

That's a good write up above. You'll also want to rotate the engine to TDC before pulling the CAS off and checking. If you're off TDC there's no fireproof way of checking where the CAS is at in relation to TDC. You could look at the cam and check where the dowel is and rotate the CAS paddle...

Do you have the bov venting to atmosphere? Is there a hose going from your bov to intake tube?Look at Chrysler kid's picture for reference.

If 2 and 3 are higher it means the crank is >90deg past tdc. Rotating it ccw will bring 1 and 4 up and 2 and 3 down.I'd still pull the cams out before moving it. Then you can do the leak down test too and know for sure what's going on inside before you start putting everything back together.

Pull the cams off and then rotate the crank cw to tdc. This is the only way short of pulling the head that you can be sure you can line everything back up without touching any valves.Once everything on the bottom end is in time, reinstall the cams with dowels up and timing marks horizontal...

It wouldn't hurt. That could save you a few steps if something is wrong.

DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK SEPARATE FROM THE CAMS WITH THE CAMS INSTALLED! YOU WILL BEND VALVES!To make sure I am reading your post right...You have the t-belt off, the crank is not lined up with the timing mark, and the cams are installed at TDC. Right? If this is the case, take the cams out...

All signs point to PTU. There's another thread going currently with a very similar problem plus quite a few others with identical symptoms. How do you know your PTU is good? Do you have a known good spare you can swap out...

First off, nice work on going after this stuff yourself and wanting to learn it. Make sure you do plenty of research and double / triple check before pulling stuff apart and before starting the car after putting it back together again...from experience... You can download the service manuals...