@Vegas Smith and @TK's9d2TSi New log has been posted, heat is much more under control, MAF comp is better, front O2 is assigned and logged, battery is logged, Disable MAF comp is unchecked, gotta work on the learnedidleadj and iscposition tomorrow.the O2 pin assignment took me a minute to...

Alright everyone, I managed to get that overheating issue sorted. A fresh thermostat and some more distilled water to top it off and now we're pretty much locked at 203 degrees while cruising and 210 after hooning a little bit with it returning back to proper temp relatively quickly. @TK's9d2TSi...

Alright another update. I would love to keep working on straightening everything out but it looks like my cooling issues are worse than I thought. My coolant was boiling in the overflow bottle and it wasn't headgasket pushing air. I almost burnt the shit out of my hand when feeling the outside...

Crap I knew I forgot something. I'll look up how to assign the wideband pin and log it. between those and adjusting isc and learnedidle i'll have a few things to do tomorrow. Thanks for all the help so far!

New update @Vegas Smith the new coolant sensor seems to be holding steady, connector and wires are looking fine too after double checking, coolant leaks have been fixed and it doesn't seem to be having heating issues.@TK's9d2TSi 0 and 50Hz sliders have been brought down to give me .25...

I checked the wire and it looked fine. I swapped the sensor for the new one and it instantly started reading about 34 degrees warmer so it's MUCH better.@TK's9d2TSi I'll check that after work

It looked alright when I put the newer one in, I'll double check it when I get the correct sensor in later today. thanks for the heads up!I'm excited to get this thing squared away, I've never done any kind of tuning and it's interesting to see all of the changes you can make to this thing!

I figured that was the issue. I'll work on that today. The temp thing was because of small coolant leak that I didn't know I had. I've been working from home so I don't drive this thing that often right now so I just now found out about it. That should now be fixed but I need to swap out my...

Yeah, I should have the correct one in tomorrow before the end of the dayI have one of those funnels that comes with a cap with a hole in it, it's great for bleeding most vehicles.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A2CQSU6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well a small update. I replaced the temp sensor over lunch, found a small coolant leak that I fixed by tightening a hose clamp and filled the cooling system. Then I turned the car on and it was SUPER rich. The AEM wouldn't read that low. Checked in link and the coolant temp was reading 34...

Yeah it started overheating at the end there, It did that as I was shutting down the car. It was too hot for me to touch so I let it cool down and I'll check it tomorrow. I recently replaced the water pump, I bled the system but I'm wondering if it might have found some air. I also bought a...

yeah the fellas up above mentioned that and I got that sorted along with the TPS today during my lunch break.

@Vegas Smith I tried to set the ISC like you told me to and also by using step 14 on this guide which looks like it was posted by you now that I check. I still need to work on it.https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-big-book-of-random-tuning-tips.511262/I decided to try to track down the...

Ok, after doing some reading into what might be causing my trims, I have a feeling it's going to be my air metering needs to be calibrated again (properly this time). I gave it a shot once but I don't think it was done well/properly.

I see, thanks! I'll work on that

@DSMPT TPS has been adjusted to read .63v which should be correct from what I've read and the stop screw should now be within tolerance. @TK's9d2TSi I called the autopart store and ordered one should be here later, thanks for the heads up @Vegas Smith 1) I'll warm the car up and and do that...

cool thanks, I'll see about fixing that up tomorrow on my lunch break

yes

I'm having a hell of a time getting the iscposition and learnedidleadjust set correctly. I took it out and made sure it's clean, the throttle body was recently rebuilt, tps is adjusted properly as far as I can tell. This is my first attempt at "tuning" so I'm trying to go through the checklist...

I thought so and felt stupid for asking but you never know until you do I suppose

I noticed that my belt was loose when checking oil and coolant levels the day after replacing my water pump. I had to drive the car for an emergency and checked it when I arrived but it was tight again. Makes me wonder if oil pressure is involved.

I would ultimately like to get a digital but I would most likely relocate it

Using the same picture, what about the ones I circled in green. I plan to use an aem oil pressure gauge. Can I plug these to do I don't have to worry about it?

Yes that's the one that's missing and yes it is completely empty I can see the thread.

Hey guys, I've got a pretty serious oil leak on the timing side of my engine. It looks like the previous owner of my car got rid of the balance shaft and did not plug the hole in the side of the block where the tension pull and the sprocket for the balance shaft were. I'm going to guess that's...

UUpdate!!The second schematic worked! The blue cable is power the black and yellow is ground.

So far so good! I just need to pick up some thicker gauge wire from the auto parts store and wire up the actual blower then I'll be done.

Sounds good to me! I'll try to get that working today after work.

Ok so I bring 2 separate 12v source from the battery. One to the switch side of the relay and one to the blower side. 10A fuse for the switch (I got that number from some reading) and 30A for the blower. The relay is rated to 30A. Which should be max max for the blower on high setting. At this...

So the blower motor should still be fused from the factory harness but the switch I install will need one too. Is there a power rating I need to stay in range of with the switch and fuse?

It's been a busy week so im just now able to sit and think about this. I made the crappy diagram included. Let me know if I need to tweak some stuff.

Maybe im misunderstanding something but both of those options look like the same thing.

It's a 4g63T Manual I removed all AC components and the selector switches(everything under the hood). I still have the under dash unit, vents, heater core etc.it already fogs up in cold rainy days, but I really just need something to help with removing ice in the winter and to keep it from...

Hey guys,I removed the HVAC controls in my car but is like to retain the front defroster. I can manually set the ducts to blow on the front window but in not sure how to wire the fan to a toggle switch. I'd like to do it properly. Any advice would be appreciated.Thanks!

If you haven't done it yet, a compression test is always a good thing to do. It will tell you the general health of the engine. If you have weird numbers after that, a leak down test will tell you where you have a compression leak. There may be nothing wrong with the engine but the peace of mind...

Alright folks it looks like I got some work to do! I'm going to grab an inline fuse holder tomorrow and see about getting this bad boy installed! Thanks for the pointers!

The alternative is the innovate that won't last 24 hours for some reason. I have Ecmlink v3 which can do narrow band simulation instead. And I'm not pushing my car anywhere near needing race gas....yet. I'm going to try it and see how it goes I guess.

That makes sense...so do I cut and connct it instead of the stock wire or do I use one of those splice connectors almost like a t connection for a vacuum line.

I would like to have a central grounding point for all of the items in that area. So I'm wondering if it would be possible to have a grounding block for the brown and the black wire. Instead of cutting the harness to my ecu for a ground.

Gotcha! Alternatively, would a strong chassis ground work or a grounding block with a cable running to the negative battery terminal?

Isn't the black wire the ground pin and do you mean the white wire goes to the ECU input?

I kind of figured but I'm trying to be sure before hooking up this $200 sensor. I also included the documentation that came with it.

This thing has so many more wires than the Innovate mtx-l+ that I have. I'm not sure what wires to use. The innovate really only uses 3. If I'm wiring this thing up similarly I'm going to need power, ground, and signal. The signal wires are analog wires are white (analog +) and brown (analog -)...

The car is up and running again! Got a new hood and see aerocatch pins for it!

Damn that sucks. At least you weren't driving when it happened. I got lucky and didn't hurt myself or anyone else.

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's fubar I haven't had the heart to go look at it yet

I'm hoping some time in the next week or so. In the meantime it's bus rides for me. It also ruined my vis racing hood. Which I can't afford to replace :/

Yup.......

I'm gonna have to find out later. I was doing some data logs and my hood flew up and smashed my windshield.... So that's cool.

The wideband is in the front 02 and it's reading 14.7 to 15 at idle and about 10.9 at work. I've done some calibration so it matches pretty closely with what the ECU is calculating. I'm thinking that it might be going too rich and burning in my exhaust which is toasting my wideband constantly