This is not always true......there are made from the same stock as what the big name brand parts are. Just as there are companies out there that have run the same products that our supporting vendors have and put them through the same proven rigorous testing that they have and came out with the...

Yes I am and yes I have seen that.....I will be picking that one up in a week....I wrote this before he had posted it

And yet you cant prove why this part is so Sh**ty as you said. What makes this product any different from any other product on the market? And I do support this community and keep it in here. But I don't see the reason on paying a 500$ difference for the same exact product. I have used this...

And also show me the factual proven difference and flow rates between the 2. And while we are at it how about the failure thresholds?

Ok so tell me how the two products are different?

Yeah but how much do they charge to do that and how much is the housing? I found the same quality of there awesome work for a cheaper price with the v-band already on it. For a fraction of the price also

Only thing I'm having trouble finding now is a 3" v band exhaust to match the housing which is also 3". I got it all for like 40$ on ebay.....I had the welds all checked by a friend who is a certified welder of 20+ years and he said it's some d@** welds on it. Lol

Not true.....I just bought one pretty cheap actually from xs power. Cones with all the gaskets and mounting hardware. Only thing is the wastegate setup is for a 4 bolt 46mm wastegate which I al ready had anyways.

Looking for a rolling chassis with drivetrain for a built 6 or 7 bolt motor that I have. Exterior paint does not have to be perfect as I am going to be vinyl wrapping the car with a custom wrap. Willing to go up to $1800 for chassis. Stripping it down to barebones pretty much and starting...

Yes they are very loud but the adjustment screw on top has been known to fail after awhile and will boost creep out of that hole due to the cheap metal that the hat is made out of. Only speaking from experience.

The new Greddy FV:thumb: sounds amazing and has a very unique sound to it.http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=26830&cat=0&page=1. I have one on my 2g that I just bought and love the sound of it even through recirculation. Definitely worth the money and with the new valve and...

I read at article but there is some controversy on which ones it is and isn't. That's why im asking 6 yrs later if we have figured it out or are there still some other numbers popping up that have come around. Also am just thinking about doing a standalone with the pros and cons that I have...

So I have seen a few posts about the 97 gst early year makes having a black box non flashable ecu. Does anyone know the numbers off of these ecu's to see for sure if that's what I'm dealing with? And also can I switch my ecu with a blackbox ecu or do I have to do a lot of reprogramming for it...

Ok thanks will definitely try that with the blt.

So tries to remove the BISS and couldn't get it completely out. Tried adjusting it and it raised the idle but still has a miss/sputter at idle. Scanned codes and got a random misfire code. Also checked ignition spark advance and was jumping between 4 degrees and 16 degrees. What would...

Is that just a part that you can pick up at the auto parts store or do I have to go to dealer to get that? And to switch to the 1g adjustable is it a simple swap over or a PITA

Looks to be a 2g CAS and is tht the BISS screw setup?

Not at all....just trying to give helpful information from our past experiences...lol:D:hellyeah:LOL:sneaky:

You could always lightly use clear silicone around the base of the mounts to blend it in a little better and to waterproof it also. Did this on my 96 I had awile back and it looked good and worked perfect.

Ok will see what I can do.....does anyone remember what size o-ring goes on the BISS?

Ok ill try it out but don't know if that's gonna work....almost idles like its got a heavy ass cam in it or missing a cylinder. But yet you drive down the road and it runs perfectly fine.

Havent tested the voltage on that yet.....also whats the location on that so I know if its the right one?

So remove the cap and screw and check the o-ring and replace it?

Not sure if it is or not but I will check on Tuesday. Its my only day off. Ill try to get a pic of the CAS to see. Also should it have a track to adjust on like the adjustable cam gears do?

BISS? And my starter is new along with all the ground wiring on the car.

Not sure which CAS im running. Have really changed anything since I bought it; the shop I bought it from the guy that originally had it is now in prison for some drug stuff I guess, but neither here nor there. Coolant temp is good; TPS is correct; MAF & IAT are both good. And as far as I know...

Valve timing is correct, marks are true. Its almost like its an electrical issue.

No CEL and there are no underlying codes. Also did an open line test for possibly a short in the wire and no wires are open or grounding out.

Compression tested and all cylinders are in range of each other; timing is spot on; I just cant figure out what it is.

Plug gap is set @.32 and it did this before changing the plugs(changed a week and a half ago). Also alternator is putting out between 13.5 and 13.95 volts

Does anyone have any input or helpful advice? Any advice would be very helpful and I have searched the tech and previous threads and didn't find anything that matched this with these symptoms.

Hope im not reposting any thread that someone has before, but I have a 97 eclipse gst and the problem im having is that when I start the car it ends up being a rough idle and almost sounds like one of the injector poppets is sticking. Sounds almost like a ball bearing being stuck and forced to...

What percentage are you running the veins at and instead of using a turbo with vein angle why not use one that raises and lowers the incoming and out going pressure by plate movement like in the 1.7 and 2.8 liter cummins diesels? just curious is all.....I was actually talking to my cummins rep...

So with that being said......is the AEM Infinity 8/10 worth the price for what it offers? And how flexible is the tuning and learning curve of this full ECM?

pretty much was looking at a twin scroll tubular but wasn't sure on why the manifold was made that way but also wanted to see what is the main use for it and why it is better or worse than the original cast manifold. quicker spool time? less lag? just some small things

thanks....ive read up on most of them in here but didn't see too many on pros and cons of each manifold and what gains and demises can come from each.

Sorry been trying to get my head wrapped back around in the DSM game, but what is the pros and cons between all three manifolds and why is there a need for what looks to be dual WG bungs on a twin scroll. If there was already a post about this I apologize in advance. Just doing a lot of...

Any warranty on the work?

97 gst 7 bolt with td05 44mm ext wg Hallman mbc fmic and idk what size injectors. Need to get it somewhere to see exactly what it has in it bcuz I bought it from a guys wife and he is in prison now. So it's kind of a stumbler on what all it actually does have in it. Btw do you know somewhere...

Sweet...been looking for a shop around here that still does dsm work. Where you at in tampa?

BOSSke I'm actually 2 counties over from you in Lake wales. Do you have the number and address for automodz?

Which alternator are you running.....they range from 75amp to 160amp. That will depend on what size fusible link you need to put in.

Definitely sounds like a bearing or a gear that's dropped inside the tranny..best bet is to tear it down and do a rebuild on it....that way you can make sure all is sound when you put it back in. And you can upgrade internals at the same time:hellyeah:

I had this happen one time in my 96 fwd and it ended up being an internal bearing on the output shaft and completely seized up and locked up the transmission. Best thing to do is tear down and inspect all moving parts for the binding and noise that your getting. Also a lot of Chrysler...