Haha, it's not factory but it's such a common issue it might as well be. This spot in the floor is just very prone to bending if people jack up the car there (and since it looks like a reinforced spot, a lot of people try it).

Does anyone know if the front bumper Eagle logo badge on a 2GA Talon is the same size as the 1GB? I've found what appears to be either decent looking repros or NOS from a seller on eBay but they are being sold as '92-94 specifically.

Did you sand it by moving the sandpaper with your hand, or did you have the sandpaper glued down to a piece of glass or something to ensure flatness, and move the head over the sandpaper?

Wow, I would love to get my 2 DSMs stripped down and on a rotisserie like that. These cars are getting old enough that it doesn't seem like a totally ridiculous plan for restorations or resto-mods...

Just spitballing- but maybe wrap a single layer of blue painters tape over the joins, and see if anything is blown off after you hear the 'pop'?Also, have you checked out your wastegate? Have you tried bypassing your MBC and just running spring pressure to see if you still get this issue?

It looks like the transmission is already out? It should just be the 4 (?) bolts for the crossmember and then the motor mounts. Have the block supported from above by an engine hoist or from below by a jack (depending on which route you go) before undoing the mounts.

Is your car not shifting into 4th at freeway speeds? What is your cruising RPM? The overdrive button on the shifter normally lets you 'turn off' fourth gear (overdrive) for driving in hills and things- I'm not sure exactly how that switch is wired up but you might have it permanently 'off' with...

"Normally" you'd attach a load leveler on an engine hoist to lifting tabs on the top end of the engine and pull the whole thing out, but since you've already got the head off the engine you could wrap a chain around the block or use lifting straps (I prefer these, and they're pretty cheap at the...

Those do look very similar- thanks for the heads up.

Junkyard, ebay, or the classifieds here. I've also bought a lot of trim pieces from members of my local area Facebook DSM group.

Did you check to make sure the connectors to the solenoid aren't corroded? Also, according to this thread the coil resistance should be between 36 and 44Ω.

You know what? I think that's probably a plan.

It's about 1.5" at the highest. Not enough to make it undriveable. When I was looking the car over before I bought it and it got hooked to the tow truck for the ride home I honestly thought it was just a lump in the carpet or something under the floormat (the car was full of junk, so I didn't...

This is what I was thinking I'd have to do. Did your repair come out okay?

I've attached a picture of the unibody reinforcement that runs directly under the driver's seat. As you can see, it's nowhere near straight, and it's so bent up that there is a mound inside the car in the driver's floorboard. I have to assume that some body either drove the car up onto something...

Alright. I'm not sure how useful this will be to anyone else that may have this issue in the future, but I was able to manually move the seat by-Applying 12V from a battery directly to the power leads for the seat motor. Moving the slider switch to the 'forward' position. Pushing the seat...

Just what it says on the tin. The driver's seat motor in my 2G Eclipse is bad (or disconnected from the rail somehow). If I hook 12V directly to the power wires for the motor you can hear it whirr and click when you move the slider switch, but no movement. I need to remove the seat from the car...

Some YouTube videos of this car:Part 1- Walkaround Part 2- Sunroof Celebration Part 3- Sickday Startup (LOUD squeaky belt warning!)

Joe Gekko updated Basket Case - 1995 TSi AWDView updates to this DSM profile...

Joe Gekko submitted a new DSM Profile :Sick Day - 1995 GS-TRead more about this vehicle here...

I gotta agree with everybody else here. You have a sporty-looking and fun to drive commuter car- just keep it clean and running good so you can sell it on when you are ready to buy a GST or GSX. You could probably find a running GST for less than the price of a decent 420a turbo kit, anyway.

Also, if you're going to support the car on 4 (not 3...) jackstands from the pinch welds like the link above recommends, be sure to get some rubber covers for the end of the jackstands. Harbor Freight has the covers for like $8/pair- they'll help to save the paint on that weld and also help to...

I'm pulling the engine and transmission from my '95 TSi AWD, and the car is going to be in that state for a couple of months. It will most likely be in the driveway under a car cover most of the time.Should I pull the driveshaft, or would I be okay just strapping it to the bottom of the car...

Some YouTube videos:Bringing the Talon home - 10 August 2015 - And driveway crunching. First parts haul - 30 August 2015 - Interior and wheels. Second parts haul - 14 October 2015 - 2GA AWD driveline. Unprogress update - 27 February 2016 - Don't tell my wife! Pulling the Engine - 25 June 2016...

This is a perfect opportunity for a side-exit exhaust with a Cherry Bomb. Your neighbors will love it.But seriously, if you can get the muffler shop to do you a straight pipe that you can slap a cheapo muffler on when you get the money, that's probably your best bet.

Swapping to the 4g63/4g63t would probably be the 'easiest' route. That particular swap has been detailed in several threads here and on other forums, but in the broad strokes you'll need to replace nearly everything. You'll need the complete engine and transmission, complete engine wiring...

That's not a bad idea- and I could probably screw that 'box' to a cheapo furniture dolly to scoot it around the garage.

...or is this something I'll have to figure out on my own? I need my engine stand back, but I don't want to put the engine that's on it currently on a tire. I'd rather find a cradle / dolly than get a second stand, since the dolly would have a smaller footprint.Link below to what I'm talking...

My suggestion would be to purchase a wiring harness adapter for your car, and repair the existing harness. It'll make the whole thing a lot easier for you and anyone you may sell your car on to.You may have better luck finding the wiring colors on a Toyota forum.

Joe Gekko updated 2G Basket CaseView updates to this DSM profile...

Do you know if your car was resprayed, or factory paint?

It looks like that's probably true for 1Gs and Galants, but my 2G black is 2-stage. I looked at a red 2G ESi with black top the other day, and it looked like single stage. That's part of what made me wonder if there was a reliable list anywhere.

Does anyone know if a list exists of what factory colors were available by year, and if they were single stage or 2-stage paints?

For what it's worth, all of my drain tubes were gunked up and I was able to blow them clear using an air compressor. Might be easier than using trimmer line.

I had no idea that was a thing that could happen. How long was the battery disconnected?

Any hints as to what you'll be doing in the next video?

Unless he's selling the exact parts you were going to buy and had the car painted the exact colors you would have used, it's not worth it. Even then, the price seems a little high.

Like others have said, if you do buy on Amazon try to buy parts that are 'sold and shipped by Amazon', even if only for the return policy. I've never had a problem sending anything back that was sold by Amazon, but I'm still sitting on some unused truck parts that I ordered from a (large...

Wow, that's awesome! Thanks!

I recently purchased a '95 Talon TSi. At some point in its past the wiring harness plugs for the cam angle sensor and crank position sensor were cut off and discarded- I'd like to replace them without buying an entire harness to cannibalize.Does anyone know how these plugs can be sourced?

Joe Gekko submitted a new DSM Profile :2G Basket CaseRead more about this vehicle here...