The threaded rod used to compress the autotensioner is not making proper contact with my tensioner arm. Instead the tool wore out the back side of the arm from rubbing against it. Was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if its just a mistake I made.
Im doing the timing belt and components on my 6 bolt bottom end with 2g head. The tension is set within spec but when I rotate the motor by hand, the timing belt walks off towards the driver side. It seems to start walking off near the crank sprocket then follow suit on the tensioner pulley and...
Doing my timing and I installed my new crank trigger plate (car was missing this prior) and the mark does not line up! I used a dial indicator on a screwdriver in cylinder 1 to find the highest point and verify tdc. Both cyl 1 valves are closed so its at tdc of comoression stroke. Why would the...
I have a fmic setup. The inlet to the intercooler is the blue coupler in the pic in my original post, and you can see the j pipe points down when its attached to the turbo. It just seems very unlikely to me that it all lines up when the manifold is bolted on, but unfortunately I had to leave my...
I just threw it on with the one stud on the turbo for that pic, so its not even seated fully against the o2 housing.Yes my radiator is thicker than stock, its a godspeed off ebay I believe. But my main concern is that the intercooler pipe connected to my t25 from the passenger side, but this j...
Running a 2g 7 bolt head on 6 bolt block. I just pulled my t25 to install a small 16g using install kit for a fmic from extremepsi, and maybe im crazy but it looks like theres no way in hell this j pipe would fit a 16g in place of the stock 2g turbo. Any suggestions/point out what Im doing wrong?
I checked the provisions for the thermostat housing, and I do have a 2g 7 bolt head on 6 bolt block.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-thermostats-housing-and-neck-on-2g-head.430329/
Figured I would post this link in case someone stumbles across this forum one day, and for my own reference...
Today I realized that the eclipse I bought recently actually has a 7 bolt head on a 6 bolt block after looking at the exhaust manifold studs (2 on outside are bigger). Are there other things I can check to confirm this? For example the 1g cas works fine on my car but from what I have read, 2g...
Thanks for all the info guys. Ive ordered the plate and seals too. Im not trying to argue the importance of this trigger plate, but rather just understand how it works. Now i see that it provides a nice barrier between the timing belt and balance shaft sprocket. Believe me I want to fix all the...
I thought that the 1g CAS provides a cam angle and crank position signal to the 2g ecu. Hence the need for splitting the signal from the CAS when doing a 6 bolt swap.
Here's links to the two sensors related to temperature control. The first one is the temp sensor for the ecu and the second one is for your dash gauge.
Another +1 on making sure the thermostat is not stuck closed. You could also try purchasing a 180 degree tstat rather than a 195 which will open...
From your picture it looks like the wire is blue with white stripe, which should go to the power steering pump.
Don't mind that the alternator is missing from my car.
I'm getting the works as far as timing components: tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and belt. Balance shaft is already deleted. A new crank sprocket is on the way as well. However I am wondering what is it about the trigger plate that is necessary for timing? At TDC of exhaust and...
You should list some information about your car so we can further help you. It could be the ECU as well. You can also use a multimeter to check voltage (should be 12v) at the CAS.
Hello all, I ran into a problem changing my timing belt. This is a 6 bolt swap in a 2g. I can't seem to get all of the timing marks to line up. When piston #1 is at TDC of the compression stroke, the dowel pins are at 12 O'clock, the timing marks on the cams and oil pump pulley are lined up...
Theres no terminals or anything to connect to, just a small post on the dummy light sender, and a post with a larger circle on the end on the oil pressure gauge. If anyone could look on their car and post a pic of what is on theirs thatd be helpful.
Is it grinding when you try to put it in? If so then it is very likely a bad synchro. If it feels like something is pushing back against you when you try to put it in gear, check the counterweight/shift linkage. Something (maybe your lower radiator hose) might be blocking the counterweight from...
I'm going over all the wiring in my 6 bolt swap 99 GST. There are two wires coming from the cluster near the alternator. One is yellow and I believe goes to the oil pressure gauge unit. The other looks to be orange/black and I believe goes to the oil pressure switch dummy light. Anyways the...
How do I take apart a 98-99 ecu so I can see the board? I got it out of the car and can not for the life of me figure out how to get it apart. It looks to me like the part the sensors plug into slides into the rest of the black plastic case (which looks to be one piece). However I dont see any...
Thanks for the confirmation guys. Peace of mind is always good to have. Did you use red or blue Loctite? I personally went with blue.
And one more question, are the torque specs different for the pressure plate bolts if I am using an aluminum flywheel? I planned on doing 168 In-lbs
I'm installing a new clutch and Streetlite XACT flywheel. I torqued the 6 bolt flywheel bolts to spec and realized i forgot to put loctite on them. So I removed them, applied it, and re-torqued the bolts. My question is are these bolts (brand new OEM Mitsubishi from STM) stretch bolts? Can they...
Do all your radiator/coolant hoses, replace the brakes if they're rusty (stopping is important too!) and don't neglect the timing belt.. that will be the death of you! Also remember that one of the best mods you can do to your car early on is a good tune.
Milky white oil sounds like a head gasket to me. Try a radiator pressure tester and see if your system holds at 13 psi. I know Autozone rents them out.
Keep in the mind that the black will get way hotter in the sun and as a result crack and fade more quickly. Besides I bet that green/gray combo is gnarly. I would rock that any day
When you're doing the back ones, you may as well adjust the e-brake. There's an access port on the rotor and you can stick a screw driver in there to tighten or loosen the drum by turning the adjustment wheel.
The maintenance guide is your lifeline, but off the top of my head I can think of replacing all belts, hoses, check and make sure you don't have bare wires hanging anywhere, then you can do other basic stuff like brakes and suspension if its bouncy.DSM's love to leak. If you find a leak, fix it!
First of all, make sure that it is a full 6 bolt swap!
Check the head. Look at the CAS. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
Check the block. Look at the oil pan. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html
Check the intake/throttle body. You can have a 6 bolt motor with a 2g...
My issue is the clutch fork. It sits too far to the passenger side and has some play in it too. If the po really put a stage 3 clutch in it and was driving it hard then the fork is probably your issue. Shimming it is a temporary fix, or you can buy a new one. I don't think there should be play in it