Gst is fwd. gsx is awd. I've owned both. If you plan on making serious power get a gsx. They're getting harder and harder to find. Be prepared to work on them. If you're not mechanically inclined, or don't have a ton of mechanic money, I wouldn't go for a higher mileage one.Welcome and...

I have an aem wb also. I just changed the knob in back to read lambda. Didn't change the face plate. And works perfect now.

Very nice!! Took mine to the Dyno and ignition breaks up bad. So chasing that. About got her figured I think.Glad you got yours running tits.I'll keep big lady in mind as well.CK at upp is awesome. Got my car running like a raped ape. I would recommend them for what's it's worth.

I'm taking mine to upp performance in the springs. They tune link with a Dyno. I looked for a lot and they were still dsm. There is a couple in Denver that say they tune link... But when you call them they don't even work on dsms anymore. Hope this helps man.

Stock fuel pump and wiring? How did you come to the no fuel? Did you pull the line of the rail and crank it?

I have the same one. Switched it to po1 to read lambda for e85. Works fine. You'll know when you turn the car on and the gauge says p01 or whatever.

Did you sort out your idle? I've been battling the same issue. And everything is blocked off of mine as well. Good luck.

You can run sd with the maf. But if almost defeats the purpose. Yes you'll get more airflow and hp. I'd guess 5 hp?? Good luck.

Yep. Free software. Just learning curve. Run the link and you'll be way ahead.

Regardless of which motor, a blt would identify the 'vacuum' leaks. But under boost those leaks are boost leak... Oh and I don't have a maf either.

Great explanation curt! Thanks man.

Great thread. I've been dialing in my table and learning good stuff here. Thanks guys.

Even with a map your airperrev will be low. And end up rich. Boost leak test for sure is a great idea.I just went through the same thing last week.

Damn. Yeah looks like casting. I'm with the above idea. Put her back together and drive it. Change oil and keep an eye out.Let us know if you figure it out. Good luck.

If black plugs it sounds like extremely rich. Maf off or ..... Did you plug and holes with a rag and forgot to take out?? To me it sounds like something with air and fuel. Good luck man.

Boo!! Maybe too much rtf from putting the pan on. But regardless, that shows some sketchy practices when assembling an engine. And non magnetic metal!?!? Bearings? When you dropped the pan did the rods and Pistons look new? Might have been a farmer rebuild. Can you see any gold rev on the...

Wow. I learn something new everyday. That set up sounds pretty nifty. Once your all tuned and don't need the laptop.

I think tubing wall thickness is what he was referring to. The thinner ones will take seriously more stress.

I think they're stamped with a L and R.

I'm with Lou. That connector is chincy. Put a new one with heat shrink. I'm surprised mine is working fine with the condition of it.But at the bottom of the motor and just a slip on connection. At least you'll know it's not that if it continues.Since your low I'll dummy light isn't coming...

Good job man!! I forgot the motor mount. Can't wait to see the finished project!

road race engineering has a nice turorial for a 1g in 2g.. I think that's the title.. Yes the cas harness is required and remember to switch the coils. Its detailed in that turorial. I cant think of anything else that may help at the moment.. Good luck man. You got it..

Yes you can. You need to connect the blue wire I believe, from the wb into the ecu. in ecm there's a place to check all your inputs to make sure it's seeing the wb. Dump the safc and ecm should have it running perfect. Just make sure you have all components seeing and talking together before...

Good reading here.

Even though your air inlet isn't as long as a turbo you could have a loose fitting sucking in air that hasn't been metered. Since it hasn't been accounted for the engine is getting more air than it thinks.So the ecu will squirt enough fuel to make the correct afr..Since there's too much air...

Turbo or not you need to know if you have un-accounted air entering your motor. That will cause your car to run as you describe.And truthfully that is a fundamental of cars, often overlooked, that will screw you up endlessly. Must make sure you have no vacuum/boost leaks. I truthfully think...

The easiest check for the fuel is the unplug the hose from the rail to the filter. Turn on ignition and should have fuel spilling out. If not then pump isn't up to par.Almost sounds like a boost leak. Or vacuum leak. I just found a huge one that was making driving horrible.Do a boost leak...

This may seem stupid. But did you check your air filter?

It's a vacuum leak. Same as boost but prevalent during no boost. Once boost hits it's fine. Since its sucking in air massively before boost.Do a boost test

Seems once you go into closed loop. So that would mean the car is adjusting based off of feedback from O2 and other sensors.Is that correct it occurs once in closed loop?You have a logger or ecm?I think it needs to be up o 193 degrees to allow ft corrections.Are you getting there...

Man. I've been having same issue. Except mine runs. But all of a sudden the priming won't occur.I used the ecm link function to turn on fuel pumps and set pressure. Now they won't turn on anymore with that function. Then they quit working. Re-wired the relay and bam works. Still won't turn...

I have an aem wide band and 1g also. Ecm link makes you simulate a narrow signal from a wideband.AEM is probably different than yours. But, I know you need a signal coming into pin 4 on ecu. Ground will either need an ecu ground or chassis. Depending on your guage. AEM didn't require ecu...

Hmm. I can see that. But I think you'll really be happier with say 43 even. Good luck man.

Good looking out 2g. My bad. I thought it was the same. From further memory on a 2g.

Engines need fuel, air squishing and ignition. That's it.Check those three things. One or more is missing.Fuel, compression and ignition. Compression test sounds in order, among others.You'll find it!

Speedometer cable comes from top of firewall and screws to the backside top of the transmission. Can't miss it.Most likeLy the cable is stripped. Unscrew from tranny and check it. hopefully its the cable and not the teeth in the tranny.I can't remember what the connection is in the car but...

I have the same thing. After getting under the rear end and hitting shit with my hand, I noticed the right rear brake line not all the way tight. Rattling on my strut.Point is to get under and rattle shit. You'll hear where it comes from. Maybe that helps.I'm glad I don't hear it anymore...

I wouldn't suggest that.That connection gets its strength from amount of threads. There isn't enough threads in the nylock, or will it have enough compression.I discovered one of mine was stripped a couple of weeks ago. So last weekend I went and got a larger drill bit and fine thread tap...

Uh Hmm. 80 psi? If you're on here and have somewhat idea cars, do you think open and closed loop difference in 40 psi may be doing it?Even so, once in closed loop, your right back in open when you floor it. So the 80 psi is only aiding the open loop scenario.Right?Unless you run ecm link...

These cars are getting harder and rarer to find.Value is only on your worth. No one else has decision to value than you.And a huge part is the question ' are you mechanically able and willing to do this?'If yes, get busy. If not, you'll spend way way more than it could possible be worth...

End of the crank!? Where tc slides onto? What's it called? Is it specific to a manual to auto swap? Thanks for the info breaks daily

Love the pics. Giving me ideas! Nice jobs!

Yeah I got some this straps and made brackets for ignition coil relocate. Next up is the fuel filter and fpr. Ace hardware even sells simple flat stock to use.

Props bro. Clean job. Not hacked together and your love shows through. Looking great!

Thank you Thunder! I will store that info fo sho!

Shit I'll set up a trade. I'm seriously thinking, probably will, make the manual to auto conversion. 3rd gear grinds anyways. HahaI'll check out that atdsm.com. Thanks guys. Cheers

Getting everything lined up and tightened is a pia! quadruple check timing belt correctly installed. Good eye 95gsx