Part out have tons of parts and lots pics. PM or text (preferred) me if you would like more information have receipts for everything that was purchased new. Or if interested in everything can buy all together. Most prices are shipped and add PayPal fees! 641-629-6790Manley turbo tuff rods with...

AvtuActually when it died on me and didn't want to start again. I had accepted already that it blew up. I thought it was my rings but nope

No. But it's never overheated. Coolant stays full. Doesn't push coolant out. It's probably not an issue even related to this tbh

Well, if all my cylinders are 150psi+ thats way more than enough for my car to start and run good. Because thats what they were when i put the engine in my car. If it were a bad gasket, or a bad valve. The compression test will definitely show low compression on 1 or more cylinders.

Extremely unlikely. Compression is good

Yup, 100% checked it twice. Before this issue i was having an issue with some wire on my ignitor plug, but this issue may be a wire or something, im trying to find help before i dig into my harness

Thats my next go

I did a boost leak test the other day. Held 40psi. Im on speed density so id assume it doesn't matter regardless. I have spark and air of course. It almost seems like my injectors aren't firing.

FFuel pressure is at 45.

150+. Definitely not weak.

My wastegate opens at 30psi, i did a pull to around 26psi and let off. My wideband read all air and died. I tried to start it but it just fires and wont start. I have check and changed the following. Nothing has fixed it -Timing -compression -cam sensor -crank sensor -map sensor -coil -ignitor...

Tps is adjusted correctly using voltage.

Here's 2 logs from tonight. I have done alot of adjusting, and even reset my fuel and timing maps back to stock ceddy big maps. I adjusted my idle using latency and scaling, but my cruise is around 16-17.5, and for some reason at very light throttle its 19-21

So let me get this straight. You guys are tuning on strictly open loop? And if im still needing fuel trims, they still do not log. I cannot get them to read at all

Private message me

Its ecuflash not dsmlink unfortunately

No. I wouldn't ask them to help. I was talking to people who have high power cars. But apparently they didn't know either. I would research and id read about pulling and adding timing. But when i would tell them im supposed to take it away they said i was supposed to add. Of course you could...

My car is also auto. So i really have no control of when it shifts unless i blue wire mod, so forgive my pull. Idk how it's +5 @30PSI when i dont have anything near that up there

I cannot get my fuel trims to appear. I will read on the link for ecuflash though

I have tried and tried to look for threads and cant find any. This is a last resort. Guys like you that have the knowledge dont put it out so others can learn. Im literally at a stand still. I just need a little guidance. And not for someone else to do it for me so i cant learn at all.

I knew that shit was wrong. I kept asking questions. And everyone was saying increase the number for more boost. I had it at +19 and +20 high end. Then increased

Help me out. Tell me what's wrong so i can learn.

Arp mains -Arp 2000 rod bolts -Arp headstuds -Acl race main bearings -Acl race rod bearings -Weisco ap 9:1 pistons -Eagle rods -micropolished Crank -3g revised lifters -Cometic Headgasket -4bar map -Speed Density -1g n/a throttle body -Gates racing blue timing belt -Balance shaft elimination...

Here are my logs

I will be posting a log here pretty quick

Stock cams for now. Im logging with evo scan. So im unsure where to look for peak timing. I cant figure out how to switch to 2 byte from 1 byte. It only logs to 160 load then nothing passed that. My car pulls good to 24psi. It could obviously pull harder. Do you have a picture of your fuel map...

Looking for some help with a timing curve and fuel maps. Im currently at 30psi. And have adjusted fairly accordingly, but my car kinda bogs down at around 24psi. Looking for some pictures of maps or maybe even a tune i can reflash and modify. Pte 1200s E85 30psi hx40 Black box ecu Speed density

See I had my whole front end off. And i had it plugged into headlight connector I'm pretty sure

So this is gonna be dumb. But the oxygen sensor was plugged into the wrong connector. Lol my car is fixed

Fuel pressure @42-45psi. My tps seems to update very very slow on evoscan as seen in the log. I have changed it tooWatcha think?

Mods: Speed Density omni 4bar e85 hx40 black box ecu aeromotive fpr wally 255 pte 1200sI got this ecu from my buddys build. I tuned his manual car and it has the same setup to a T. When I shift my car into any drive gear, it bogs down like any auto car is supposed to, But my car literally...

how do i fix that?? Because im pretty sure its doing this. Im gonna make a new post since this one has actually been solved. Follow me over to the new post. Ill state all mods and a log

Yes i can. I got it to drive, but i found that it'll only drive if i give it 35-40% throttle. Thats when it'll actually out out good afrs. Any lighter throttle and it goes lean and falls on its faceWell actually I need to make a new log. It didnt log my drive just earlier.

Well its on speed density so only leaks would matter on the intake and there aren't any

New problem. Its running perfect at idle. But when i put it in drive and give it any throttle it goes straight lean and will try to stall. I have to put it in neutral and rev it in order to keep it going. Im literally driving around the block

Lol i found out my flexplate bolts are rubbing my starter plate. Im not using actual thin headed flexplate bolts im using the traditional grade 7 m10 bolt from all over our cars. Haha

Yes it's running good and idling good. And 150psi accross the board

My head is like knocking

They weren't full of fluid. Idk if maybe the assembly lube is too thick

No... They been sitting in a bucket over winter. I cleaned them up on the outside obviously not good enough

No :( im dumb and didn't. I put way too much assembly lube in the head, i pulled the cover and the lub is in almost all oil galley ports on the lifter rail. I let it idle for a good 2-4 minutes

I just started it, and there's a constant noise in my cylinder head it sounds like if your engine was running and you took a piece of hard plastic and held it against the cam gear teeth. I revved it up to 5k, and the noise got WAY louder and stayed loud even at 1k idle

I made sure i wouldn't bend valves lol

Yes everything is right on

I used alot of assembly lube up top

No, which was stupid of me. They're 3g revised

Okay cool. I haven't let it idle for more than 10 seconds because of an oil leak from turbo oil line

Also is it normal for lifters to make alot of noise following a fresh engine startup. I filled the head with assembly lube and haven't gotten to operating temp yet

OhIts a 97. My roomates car is also a 97. Im using his ecu. And his ignitor. Maybe you can tell me why i have to reverse the wires even though they're the same??

YOOOO THANK YOU. It worked