well, this is my dd car, so it is currently together, but leaks bad. the bottom far right exhaust stud hole is crooked and steers to the right about 4*. i tried to torque the top far right stud and it just stripped, but it is straight and do-able for helicoil. i know the holes in the exahust...
i have the same issue, i broke off two studs accidentally when taking them out, drilled both of them, and i tried to easy out them. only got one out, cause the other hole was drilled a little crooked. im guessing im screwed on that part of the engine?
makes me so mad that all that power loss is...
i have a similar issue, car runs fine at cold start, even with ac on. but if you drive for 30 minutes at minimum, turn car off, turn car on, it tries to idle around 400rpms so i have to keep foot on gas for a few seconds then it levels out and i can take foot off the gas. And the AC, well, if...
since ive been busy tonight, i only managed to unplug the clutch switch to see if anything would change, it didn't do anything. if i get the chance tonight, ill try to do the checks on those switches that the book says to do.
Hm...do u remember how i mentioned the dash light would come on while i held set button, but after a few tries, the pressing of the set switch would only make a click noise and turn amber light off. does this mean that pedal switches could be bad even though dash light comes on once in awhile...
i checked the resistance on pins 13/8 (set) and 13/19 (resume), but no readings. and i cant hold down any buttons while holding the multimeter on pins. im guessing im doing something wrong?
the paper clip thing worked great, thank you 19Eclipse90.The following voltage checks were made on pins 13 and 8 (set switch) with the ignition key in the on position and car not running:
amber light on (cruise ready to be set)-10.20 volts
amber light off (cruise off)-0 volts
amber light on...
my question sounds kinda stupid, because i havent figured out how to 'magically' check voltage on the pins when the connectors are together. Is that when you go down to the diagnostic connector's pins like i tried earlier?? ill go with the resistance check first. manual just gives pins to check...
So when u say "pins 8/13 on the wand side to those on the harness side" do u mean measure continuity between both pins 8, then measure between both pins 13? what am i missing in the manual, the dumb thing just says to measure continuity and shows one freakin connector. Do i need alligator...
ok, so i checked the pins 8 and 13. with the key in the acc. position, i unplugged the 20-pin connector and checked the pins, no voltage. next i turned the wand and set the set switch, took finger off it, and when back underneath to check the pins=no voltage.
well, sort of.... we used an analog voltmeter on dc voltage to measure length of pulses, but all we get is a bunch of steady short pulses (which indicates a functional cruise ecu, right?) even when we tried to go into the code reading state with the wand, it still did same thing (if amber light...
do i need to take the steering wheel off to check the wand out and and set button or remove bottom column plastic piece? sorry for all the dumb questions 19Eclipse90, my dad just thinks i need to let the whole cruise control thing go and drive it as is, so he is reluctant to help me with the...
i tried to check my isc connector resistance, but i didn't get any readings, although my car does idle a little better since i unplugged it and plugged it back in. y am i not getting readings?
well.....that didn't work.... analog multimeter still shows same "pattern" no matter if i just turned car on or got back from driving. any ideas where i can find a code reader to fit a 90 eclipse?
yea, the cruise ECU is normal then. but when i try to set the cruise, the click noise happens and amber light goes off, so do i have to get it to do what i mentioned in my earlier post #8?, check it out. do i need the green light situation to get a reading?
i just now turned they key to the "on" position, turned wand on and it did the exact same thing. im starting to think that there is no codes to be read, due to something else being wacked up.
hm...well, i don't get any readings when i leave the wand off after it turns itself off.... my manual is the Eclipse Service Manual 1990 "includes all-wheel drive volume 1- engine, chassis & body. page 13-196 & 13-198 (auto cruise control system-troubleshooting diagnostic display patterns...
ok, so i took it for a drive, made the cruise control do what it was doing, and when i got back, i turned the wand so that the amber light would come on and i checked the pulses with an analog. it just kept reading 15,6,15,6,15,6,15,6 volts. that pattern isnt in the manual. the way the manual...
using a code reader or voltmeter? because i tried to follow diagnostics with multimeter, but i didnt read any of those patterns, and the old man thinks ill accidentally switch them and f everything up worse
na, i havent tested actuator yet, but i will. the pads on my switches just have indentions in them, so visually, the switches go in all the way when pressed.
yea its a manual trans. i was gonna take out the control unit and make sure all electronics are ok. Will anything happen if i unhook everything from the junction block, remove it, then put it back in? because im pretty sure i would have to take it out to get control unit down, there just isn't...