Thanks man I appreciate it! I’ve commented on two of the shootout posts on fb with no response. This will be my first year going but having trouble figuring it out.
Thank you both for the response. I hope this isn’t too bad of a job I hate working inside these doors lol. If I have tomorrow I’ll try to see what I need to pull out and what can be replaced.I’m honestly thinking about drilling out the pin the rod connects to and replacing with a nut a bolt...
I searched and couldn’t really find anyone with the same issue. Long story short I was replacing a broke door handle and ended up seeing that this rod I’m about to post pictures of is bent and even broken at it be part. I need a solution here what do I need to replace.bonus question, the new...
Stainless seems so appealing but I’m not sure how great that would go being my first time doing brake lines in my driveway. My goal is to have this car on the drag strip next year. Such a tough decision I’ll have to look into cost.On another note. There is zero break fluid in the reservoir or...
Thank you for the advice I will definitely be replacing all of the lines. The salty Indiana roads has them all on their last leg even though only one busted. This is for my 2g how hard is this going to be? I’d like to save the money and tackle this with a little bit of help in my driveway. I...
The lines are pretty bad if I spliced in some fresh line I wouldn’t feel safe but it had crossed my mind but it’s just too far gone. I appreciate the reply and advice.Thank you I will contact them and see if that is a possible route for me.
I appreciate your reply. Where would I go to get the kit made? You think I’d have any luck searching if anyone else has done the measurements before? Could save me time and possible error as well if I do decide to have them made.
The appealing part of the copper/nickel lines is I’ve read...
My 2g has been sitting for a while due to a busted brake line under the car. After working on the engine and cleaning the car up over time it’s time to get the brakes fixed. From my observation I’m looking at replacing all of the hard brake lines under the car. So all new brake lines at that...
Anyone have thoughts on a titanium hardware kit for the exhaust manifold? Would it do well? I've been eyeballing a kit for when I replace my exhaust manifold and have been seeing a few titanium kits. Titanium appeals to me because I want to limit rust.
The car is best described as a daily, i won’t be placing an order until I’m sure of everything. I’m set on the control arm kits the only thing I’m questioning now is bushings. I’m going to do some research and see what’s up
that doesn’t sound too bad I definitely have the right tools around to make it happen if not I was thinking to have a local shop just install the bushings for me. So I’m looking at prothane kits and find this...
That’s very helpful thank you for that. The car is really a daily, how are the stock bushings? Should I buy aftermarket? I’m looking at extreme psi and they have so many sets I’m not even sure which one to buy if I did
So I’m ordering this kit: https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Mitsubishi-OEM-Front-Driver-Knuckle-Kit-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-95-99.htmlPlus the passenger side. Can anyone tell me what else I need to buy when replacing all of that? Anything I should add? Having trouble finding an installation write up
yeah figured I’d ask, but thanks to you and others for the help here I think I’ve figured out all I need. Hopefully placing an order today and digging into it when the parts arrive.
okay thank you so much for the info, so I just call them and tell them I’m looking for a ball joint recall kit? Which bushings am I looking at? I just searched my vin number and it has maybe 6 recalls how can I check if they have been performed? And will Mitsubishi do anything about those?
So I took my 95 Talon to get a front end alignment about a week ago and was informed it would be about $400 due to the fact that my ball joints are wobbly and that means they’re bad from what they told/showed me. So of course I drove that sucker home only because they wanted to put some moog...
Any picture of the leak and where it’s leaking from? Most likely need a new gasket and clean the surfaces well before install of the new one. Did you use any RTV when installing initially?
There is no specified torque number I to my knowledge because if you’re torquing the VC down that’s exactly what’s going to happen, cracking. Hand tight is what most recommend to avoid that.
I’ve never even been inside a 1g but I have to say I hate how crappy the interiors of 2g’s usually are. I’m not sure if poor design/materials or shitty owners but I can’t wait to get everything dialed in.
Yeah I’m definitely thinking someone removed whatever is supposed to be there. I thought I had seen a picture before of a white plastic piece that’s supposed to be there but like I said I have no idea. I’m hoping someone here can offer a good solution so I don’t have to hear the metal smacking...
This piece right here is the cause of my window rattle, what is it missing? I believe there is supposed to be a piece of plastic maybe Teflon that sandwiches to guide the window up and down, is this correct? If so I am missing that piece completely how can I fix the rattle? I’ve thought about...
After looking through the wiring it was hooked up correctly to the factory amp and everything, it turned out that in my head unit setting after a reset it has an option for the rear speakers which is full or SW (subwoofer) set it to full and bam! It sounds amazing man. I’ve never seen this...
In my 95 the rear speakers don’t produce any sound, I’ve checked the connections at the speakers once before and it was solid. Polarity was correct and the speakers are aftermarket kickers so I know they’re not old and bad. What would cause this issue other than the wiring at the head unit...
That’s perfect thank you both for the fast response. My local hardware store carries grade 8 so I’ll be sure to get them so at least I have some high quality bolts. Anything I should know going into this? I know I may possibly have to lower the engine slightly if I don’t have clearance to get a...
I’ve got a new fluidampr pulley arriving today and I just wanted to know what I should do for bolts? I had someone on another post of mine say hardware store bolts would do, is that true?
Thank you everyone for the information! I found a good deal on a fluidampr $260 shipped new in box. My question now is what should I be doing for bolts?
I thought about it, it seems that’s for an engine that’s modified a little more than mine. I have an egr delete and a filter for the maf and that’s about it. Do you think the fluidampr would benefit a mostly stock DD?
Thank you for all of the good information I will be ordering an OEM pulley at the end of this week. So floor jack on the oil pan to support engine? Also would this be a good time to swap that engine mount too? Maybe not the mount but the insert at least? If so what’s a good replacement