It's a belt one but carbed

I might pick up an 80 D50 with the G64B and have been reading a lot that the 4G head will fit. I don't want to hassle with the transmission and stuff so I feel that would be the easiest way. What requirements would have to be done for the swap besides electrical?

I broke off the little black box coming from the coil pack and now it's just the wire. It's a capacitor I assume but would it cause a no start?

Ok thanks for the translator help. Yeah I will be upgrading eventually I just need something to get me by for now. Budget is tight. Now only if I knew what the sensor was. It's a Denso

Ok so I got this gen 1 translator from a friend and I was wondering what this plug and sensor is? Sensor has a vacuum port and the plug looks like o2 not sure. Anyways there is also a white wire coming off the translator what does that go to? I know how to plug in the rest. Also I'm going to be...

They're journal bearing?!? I swear I thought I saw somewhere it was ball bearing. Thanks for the info!

I have a s256 with BEP housing and I plan to run it from the head. I got a t3/t4 feed line with a -4an restritcer that adapts to the t3/t4 flange coming off the feed. Would this be enough to not kill the turbo?

The SHP version. Yeah I'm planning on running coils with them and will probably need spacers I'm assuming. I guess I'll pick them up and try to make them fit. I've seen them on a 2G and it looked awkward with out flares but with flares I'm sure it can work.

Has anyone ever fitted conquest wheels on a 1G? I'm trying to get a wider look and go with fender flares. Fronts are 8in wide and rear are 9in wide.

I think they were d2. All I figured was drilling new holes for top hat but the length is what concerns me. He said they were 4in taller but have 6in of adjustment so I could only go 2in down from stock and be bottoming them out

I have an option to get coilovers cheap that are for a gvr4. Would they fit my 1g awd? I heard they are just taller.

Alright so this is on my phone so please know this will not be the full quality of my journal. Now it has begun, the tear down of my laser. So I got all of these parts by trading my GST which soon spun a rod bearing to my friend that got it. Perfect timing right:D. Anyways here's what's going...

So I'm most of the way there. I'm trying to pull out the black boxes in the way(forget what they're called), I seemed to have taken out all of the bolts required to remove them. The right one wiggles around a lot more than the left one and they're somewhat connected by clips it seems. I need...

I only need parts of the harness removed. I only need the part with the injectors, tps, cas, o2, and thermostat connections.

What would be the easiest way to remove the same part of the harness? It's for stuff like the ecu, injectors, tps, and ignition

Ok they seem to be the same. I'll update more when I get it in the car.

Alright thanks for the help. I'm just going to put it in the car and see what happens. If you see the connectors behind the orange connector. Those seem to be around the area of the coolant temp sensor. Is there any differences in the 90 and 92 for that area?

Alright so I'm looking at my harness that was wired for a haltech e11 and msd ignition. I know where most plugs go but I'm not sure about a few. I have a 92 and the harness is from a 90 so I'm guessing some plugs will be different that I'd have to rewire. Here are some pics of what I do not...

Just ordered a t3 to ofh oil feed with the flange. Thanks for the info justin.

Here is the flange. There is a thread pitch in the inside too

What does the area where the oil drain bolts to on a 6 bolt look like? Some guy is telling me a -10 an line screws right on it but I thought it was a flange style drain?

So I just got my hands on a Schwitzer turbo setup and it has a flange to a an line but I need a flange or something to bolt to the oil pan also I need to know what to do for the oil feed.

Ok thank you that's what I thought. He really confused me some how haha.

When I first bought my GST the owner said it had a 6 bolt block or something of the sort he said from the owner before him. I noticed when doing my timing maitnence there was a sensor near the crank. I'm guessing that's the crank position sensor correct? He also had the cam conversion input on...

It seems that the horn button screw on my 1g's wheel is stripped out. Anyone have some tricks on how to get it out? vice grips aren't fitting in the cramped space:banghead:

I was wondering if there is a way to untension the timing belt so I can adjust my exhaust cam gear because it is a tooth off.

Alright thanks I just realized that about the dowel pins.

I notice there is small and big timing marks on the cam gears. I'm wondering if the small ones are supposed to be towards each other when at tdc. I'll show a pic of mine, it has one large and one small facing each other. Is that wrong? Yes I know I'm a tooth off

Yeah I have another one I'm going to try. I'm thinking it was bad because I left it sitting out in the rain:D:ohdamn:

I was having the same problem with a gm maf setup then I switched to stock maf and now I can barely get my car to run. Misfiring super bad and dies if you touch the throttle.

This is my first year attending(only been in the game for a year and a half) and I'm quite excited. If I can get my 2g to run right in a week is the question though.

My O2 sensor only reads .02 to .03 volts and I replaced it and it still shows the same readings. I am using ecu+ to read the output. Any idea what's going on?

Hope to see you at shootout. That'll be good enough instead of updates haha

Gracias senior:hellyeah::dsm:

a few have suggested my problem is my CAS on my 97 GST and I was wondering how to test it before I grab another one. Car misfires really bad and dies once throttle is applied.

Those don't seem that wide though

Wondering if anyone knows what fender flares these are because I want to have a decent widebody look but not with a full kit. More like riveted on flares but massive.

Nope checked it and it was good. Even took the one off my 1g that I knew that worked had same results

Got a new O2 sensor and no change. Switched back to factory maf and now it misfires really bad at idle and will die if you try to give it throttle

No everything is plugged in besides emissions

Starts up fine but misfires terrible and will usually idle steady around 600 but nothing but misfire. I'll list everything i've checked and replaced. -plugs -wires -coil pack -boost leaks I think I checked more things I can't remember but I had a boost leak at an injector. I also noticed my tps...

That is some crazy carnage!

Was this ever solved? My secondary is in spec but my primary is 2.5

replaced o2 sensor and nothing. There was some chaos and frustration between it too. Almost want to sell the damn thing I'm so irritated with it. The only thing I can think of is that the maf is reading negative something air temp but its a GM maf so idk. All fuel trims are at 0%. I NEED SOME...

Wow that actually looks really good! My paint is terrible on my laser lol

Yeah I know that's possible but I want to know if anyone has messed with the laser rear making it look better.

I got a laser 1gb all bone stock besides buschr exhaust, poly motor mounts, and completely rebuilt motor from a really big DSM enthusiast an hour away from my area about a month ago. My big question is... has anyone messed with the rear ends of them at all? I always thought to do a 1ga talon or...

Would love to bring this post back to life if this was fixed at all? Mine won't run after closed loop and front O2 stays at .2 most of the time and occasional .3

Not yet. Replacing O2 sensor once it gets here.

I noticed my TPS and ISC is off so I'll be sure to fix that but now all 3 of my fuel trims are at 0% instead of 100%.