Sucks because I just had the damn head off, I told myself to go get it surfaced but NOOOOO I threw it back on anyway... Its ok nothing a few beers and some cussing cant fix!

Ok guys after further review and a Compression/ Leak down test Ive found the culprit... Warped Cylinder Head. Im getting air in between cylinders 1&2 during the test ( Air heard and blowing out of cylinder #2s plug hole while putting 100psi into cylinder 1 and the even more angering result is...

Im not a believer in the ducting theory, Ive had a 1G with this same intercooler setup with no ducting, FP Mani with no heatshields and it never ran hot in the summer even with the air on. No coolant type/ Mixture ratio, watter wetter or none has any effect all same results. I believe I either...

EGR is deleted.

While there is some truth to this, it doesn't happen all that easy... trust me

Yep have my upper on but not lower..

Threw on a new Evo 16psi rated cap, no difference.. I feel like the engine bay heat of having no lower heat shield may be playing into this as im melting A.C. side fans and blades etc... Anyone have the stock lower shield they will sell me? May try heat wrapping the o2 housing and downpipe for...

Thanks for the input guys, I will see what I can do... Is there an easy way to tie the drivers side AC fan to come on with the passenger main radiator fan when it comes on so both are operating even with the AC OFF? I know 2Gs have the fans always on option in link but this is a 1G car and we do...

Interesting.. Has anyone seen any improvements in coolant temperatures switching to aluminium radiators? I've always thought they were a joke and not neede, Hope I don't have to mod up some kind of ducting...

Auto, Trans cooler is relocated to old smic location... I've gathered some data on my 40 minute drive to work this afternoon in 80 degree temperature. Cruising 45-50mph to the interstate below 3K rpm the car does not get over 206 unless stopped at a red light it would creep to 213 and then back...

So I've been running it with the cap off and a funnel in trying to burp it of any air bubbles I've noticed the fluid level never really drops it seems this 180 deg thermostat opens at 196 because that's when I start seeing bubbles but the fluid never sucks down and I don't have to add any, the...

Lol Im not a hack, a new OEM composite was installed... If you literally take the head off and reuse a 26 year old gasket you may be mentally challenged.

Its new forgot to mention that... first thing done.

Ive tried two different Thermostats... and Yes I have a Condenser this car has working AC and I need it Georgia heat doesnt play any games!!I just let the car run with the cap off for about 35 minutes we will see if that helped and if air was in the system.

I did not have a blown head gasket I assumed I did so I pulled the head.. No issues found there. Which makes sense as I had perfect compression, no oil in coolant or coolant in oil etc.

It does not run hot until you drive it, Just sitting there it never goes above 210 and fans cycle on and off properly. I have never seen any indications of head or head gasket issues with it and it just started running hot, When i pulled the head the gasket looked fine I saw no issues with it or...

I do have a FMIC, no Ducting of any sort added.

Car has started to run hot in 80 degree plus weather here recently, No issue in cold weather or morning/ night... It has a new Radiator, Rad Cap, Temp sensors, Stock working fans, Thermostat, Head gasket, Water pump. Zero coolant leaks and got up to 240 on me today on the interstate.Im not...

Currently waiting on a 3.3 ohm resistor to arrive in the mail, Ive tried everything and scrutinized it for hours and never could get it to work properly I have the same results no matter what switch what wiring etc as soon as I splice into that blue wire and start trying to run it into a 3 pole...

Ah ok this one is 10K, Called around.. only thing thing I can get around here in 3.3ohm is 1/2 watt from radioshack.

Is there a special certain resistor required?

Couldn't tell you, previous owners doings... I drive it everyday no issues... As far as the connectors they will work for testing I'm not soldering and shrink wrapping anything until I can get it to work.

So I have scrutinized this and still can't get it to work... Here is the blue wire I'm tapped into.

Two different new switches, same result

Yep drove it to work just fine once I hooked the blue wires back together.

Positive.

True but you mean $199 not $99. Just saying

Anyone know my issue?

Ok I got an ON ON switch two position and still no cigar TCU not controlling trans. It starts off in 3rd and only gears 2 & 3 work by manually selecting, no 1st or OD... Seems like a limp mode or somethingAs far as the resistor is it required? I see you guys talking about a code if not. Are we...

Yea I can't get it to work, going to get a 2 position ON ON now.

Will an On-Off-On switch like this work?

Yea hes thinking of the Kiggly Mod

Thanks man, Easy as that! Will be doing it tomorrow lol

Appreciate it but i personally think opposite about the TPS signal, If you have the ability just to flip one switch only on or off and not have to worry about oh im at this throttle or this throttle and hopefully this sensor or that sensor works... Why would you only cruise around on full line...

What is the function of the resistor wired in with a relay? And is the TPS signal required? Seems useless if you want the pressure all the time with the switch thrown.

Ok, so how do you do it? Everyone talks about it but no one can show you how to do it.

Im aware of the shift boxes ($199), but I know there is a cheaper alternative, the guys at English Racing had it just using a switch years ago before the boxes even came out... Thats what im Looking for!

I have seen many threads about the full line pressure mod (blue wire) but none of them actually explain or show a diagram on how to do it, the ones ive seen show using TPS sensors with resistors ETC wired in so its full line pressure above a certain throttle %... I do NOT want this I want to...

Will a 1990 ECU with link v3 work in a 1991, Or do the pins still need to be swapped even with Link installed etc?

Anyone else have any input on this?

Have a bone stock 91 Tsi AWD Auto, I know one of the old cheap dsm tricks is a 2G MAF and 560 Injectors will work ok with no tune but im not sure if that was on manual ECU cars that originally used 450cc Injectors. The auto cars obviously use smaller injectors thus the stock ECU tuning must be...

Never heard of needing to add spring shims.

Cylinders 1&2 had 0 on initial install with cams In, that told me the lifters were holding the valves open, removed about .025 on those intake and exhaust side and reinstalled cam. Boom 150psi, 3&4 did not need lifter grinding as they made 150 as well, but now after running for about a minute...

Well spoke to soon once again, it was making 150psi across now #4 has 0 and the car runs like dog shit, extreme lifter noise happening even after running for 2-3 minutes, can't figure out why I lost #4 compression.

Found the problem boysInstall height was wrong, machine shop didn't take enough off tops of valve stems, ground lifters down and she makes compression! Thought this was my problem initially but there was in fact warped seats and 4 slightly bent valves all which was fixed at the machine shop...

Not sure how I can remotely still have problems with the valves sealing here....head is back on the car.I didn't do any test to the valves with the head off, why? Because I just paid for all that to be right and seal... apparently not.

I'm lost here, I have over $250 in machine work on this head, been completely disassembled twice at the machine shop everything inspected cleaned, a valve job and "vacuum" test and it literally still leaks out the exhaust side like the day I bought it. This thing is killing me and im starting to...

Completely finished with this POS, got head back from machine shop with fresh valve job and it still blows air out the exhaust ports on a leakdown just as bad as before. Somebody come get this junk

Did he perform a leak down test? That will roughly show were your losing compression (most likely valves.)

Figured a machine shop that fully disassembled the head would of maybe noticed some seat issues, probably not easily seen by the eye however... Back to them for a valve job.