Exactly. I've been on the hunt....

As long as u wire to the relay as I stated on fb you should be fine pump shouldn't burn up unless out of fuel as that's how they are cooled.

Hate to bump such an old thread but no one responded to this question. Does anyone else have experience from a vafc original installation and use in a ,DSM. I have two I purchase for under $100. I plan on installing either the original or vafc-ii. But I get conflicting reports.

Wow no replies just on fb. OK you might have the same issue I had so I will explain what I did.When I first got my car it would crank and not start. I couldn't figure out why the guy before me couldn't get it running either. Well he included all the extra parts receipts and all form...

Its always best to address the issue. I don't think one would cause a problem but if it doesn't seat and seal there you will have yo remove the pan clean the gasket surface fix the whole and do it all over again. Might as well do it right the first time

The pump is the farthest right (lower) gear attached to the timing belt under the timing cover where the oil filter housing is an external casted passage on the left side (lower) if this helps you

Have you checked voltage on both wires yet? I've had to do this before and manually turn off and on the radio. Ended up being no power from the ignition wire had to get into the fuse box and run a new wire for ignition only power.

The gasket I got was like $4 I believe.

Ofh gaskets are cheap and avaia me at stm. Just did this to mine 12mm bolts one under the crank pulley is hardest. You have to remove the timing cover and get to it. 5 bolts total I believe.

91_talon_tsi_awd submitted a new DSM Profile :1991 tsi awdRead more about this vehicle here...

Might want to check with an admin for what can be done about your account.

Welcome and just as a pointer. Trying to sell parts on this section wouldn't be a good idea. Put in ur time and become proven member before attempting that. Facebook groups are the place to go to post your items. Also as stated in the sticky threads you new to load a profile picture and...

Has anyone removed their black trim between the windows and body? Post pictures please! Also anyone remove the spoiler as well? I've seen one and I was on the fence with the look. As most 1g's mine is fading/peeling, and I'm trying to decide whether to shave it or paint it all. Thanks...

From the name I would figure you are from alabama? If so and u need a valve cover I'm in guntersville all of us around here try to lend a hand and keep each other going

Job weld is an option. It would be covered and can be drilled. (Not easy to drill and tap). Or as stated acquire another valve cover. And while youre in there fix the oil leak.

I've covered other hatch spare wells with aluminum. Taking measurements and a template 1 1/4 inches wider than what fits r then make a few strength creases ridges and rolling the edges and making them smooth then as praying adhesive and attaching carpet so the piece is easily removed and stays...

Typically that happens when the constant power isnt working the illumination wire (orange most of the time needs to be hooked u).Also try swapping those two wires for power one retains memory the other turns the radio on check voltage at wires with key off. The one with power is the one for...

A few ways to accomplish this. First is take it apart and clean the back of the gauges up make sure the crap cleans up an gst the orange off (paint thinner) you can remove the lights that are in there and go with leds or use a tinted plastic cover for the color you desire

I wish I would have known I had 3 extra brackets would have given u one.

I would take into consideration what's shells and chassis's are accessible in your are as well as if local yards have other parts available. This would help to determine which would be a better choice other than of course cost. On the head choice what is the outcome you would like to come to...

I have a friend who ran his with map setup on n/a bl9ck with n/a pistons turbo head factory turbo parts in a turbo car. Said he had a/f issues with the n/a maf and ran 12psi safely for 3 years. So from the info I've collected I would agree with the previous use a turbo maf or go speed density...

I actually just mocked up a baffled catch can I made using a cad deigner. If I can figure out how to post from the cad I will if not I have sketches I'll post. Mock was done with poster board for figment in two locations two designs were made for different applications.

He had a new belt put on which typically in loved replacing other belts and parts to make sure all is well in the timing system as well as cooling and charging system other accessories

BTW turning the crank with a 7/8 inch socket on a breaker bar has been my easiest way to line those cam gears up. I agree with the answers on they messed something up but I wouldn't touch it. Have then pick it up and fix the issue if they are reputable they wilfux what they messed up. I would...

Nice grab on the pistons! I'm right there with u. My build is basically the same weekend warrior point a-b car. 1g talon. Just buttoning up the newly rebuilt 6bolt. Looking forward to seeing this thing progress

Very true! I ended up with a hole in a piston first time i drive mine. Last owner says its a 80k mile engine ran fine rwwired fuel pump and it stopped running. Had a bad ecu. And I wired things back drove it and KABOOM!! #1 piston melted down and ruined the head. Glad you got a good one...

Welcome to the site! Hoping my ca4 cleans up as well as yours! Very nice looking ride.

Welcome. This site has plenty of information to soak up. Be ur to read around and learn everything!

Welcome!! Hopefully the car treats you as well as you would like!

Sounds like you have a plan laid out for sure do you have a set budget for the build/project? I've always found it west to set a budget and stick to it to accomplish my goals better than to wing it and not have the last couple parts due to frugal spending on something I didn't quite need yet...

Well. I pulled the plugs after 'he-man'ing the car home. The #1 plug is obliterated. Its all welded together. Took a lot to get it out. The rocker intake valve on cylinder one was not in place when I removed the cover. It will undergo more extensive evaluation will soon enough. And check...

Update ::: wiring was fine. Problem was the IAC or isc (which ever u choose to call it) which cause the burn up transistor on the ecu. With the spare I resoldered in another. Unplugged the IAC. And he ran fine. No surge no miss nothing but the ticking. Well after driving in a parking...

@antoniobrown If ur interested lemms know I'm in north Alabama.

Ok all the wiring hacking was done before I purchased it. The ecu I just burned was a 90 starion ecu... the one that was rebuilt I'm unsure of.. **information was printed on ecu case.The wiring is letting the car run and drive ad only did this today with two ecu! The at has been cranking...

Alright so no longer taking advice from a certain "knowledgeable DSM owner". The wiring on my ecu was cut and swapped from green to green/white wires. OK car was running but surged at low rpm. Was told to swap those back to correct position. Green to green etc. So I did. Drove green no...

With mine further inspection showed a bent pin in the Mac plug. Its now functioning. But with partial throttle it is now surging up and down. Full throttle gets it to rev up fast.

Did anyone find a solution to this problem. My car is only surging at partial throttle. Ecm is rebuilt. Have another ecm it does the same. Car has atmospherical bov. 20gtd05h. 660cc injectors (no tune). Needing to swap back to stock injectors soon. Have rewired a lot and rerouted...

Any further update on this issue? Has it been resolved? What was the outcome? Currently trying to pinpoint a similar situation.

Op where you located? I got a lot of those parts lying around. Tstat housing. Recirc valve. Ecm. Etc.

The DSM community lending hands to a brother in need!! I've found cheap clutch kits 6 puck with flywheel and pressure plate (key included) under $300 shipped.

I'd say if your hitting 7k rpm and not moving.... then A) if it revs slowly - check for boost leaks timing issue. Stopped up cat. Fuel or spark. B) if it revs quickly- your clutch is not fully engaging (yes engaging) disengaging is what happens when u press the pedal down. And/or its...

Glad to see another south eastern DSM!

I'd say go with a 6 bolt but I'm biased since I have an extra sitting around that needs home lol. But def address the transmissions weak point mine has crapped out with only 15-25 miles on an OEM clutch with a 20g and supporting mods. But good luck with the build and looks like a solid...

What made you decide to dedicate this car for the swap and build. Rather than building a 1g or 2g? (And I'm a Hyundai guy owned three not bashing just curious).

OK. Phantom knock can be picked up from injector pulse or lifter noise. Other insignificant things. Engine mounts that have worn out in theory could cause phantom knock if they cause vibrations

Subbed

Agree with changing your springs. I think if you don't have all the supporting mods to run what you have stock effienciently then its kinda pointless to add a bigger turbo. And attempt to have it run any better. Just my experience. Had a 2012 genesis coupe 2.0t. I built up and currently...

Thanks! Looking like I will have a lot on my plate as far as repairs and all. Guess a (re)build thread will be in the works.

OK I put it perfectly straight at the marks at the crank and cams lining up. Problem is it starts now... BUT there is something horribly wrong. It makes clapping noise up front such as valves clapping the piston... But will run. So!! Now what....Not for sure now what to do. Stuck with this...