If you both have to pump the pedal to get a firm one, or if the pedal slowly goes down when you're sitting at a stoplight, then it's most likely the master cylinder or an air bound ABS unit if equipped. This is assuming regular bleeding methods were tried and failed and that all four calipers...
It doesn't sound like it's a booster then if it's holding vacuum when the car is off. Vacuum usually doesn't have an effect on pedal travel like that though. If you lose vacuum the pedal usually gets a little higher and harder than a honeymoon skin flute... This is what's stumping me. Did you...
I have seen 92 blocks that are both ways. I never checked far enough to see if they were Plymouth, Mitsu, Eagle, Hyundai, etc., but I'm wondering if that may play a part. Also, this may relate to when it was BUILT instead of MODEL year as pauleyman said. Totally forgot about the front case bolt...
If a caliper or hose is giving issues, it usually pulls to the side that the problem is on, so it's probably not that. That being said, check anyways. When you say you run out of pedal travel, is it because you hit the floor pan with it or does it stop midwayish like it's supposed to? Is the...
It doesn't really look like the pan dips down, so if not it's definitely a 6-bolt. I would say pull the pan to see if it has handles or a girdle on the mains. I know it's more work, but you need to know what it is before getting parts...
I would still replace the bearings. Antifreeze has a corrosive attribute that will pit or wear down the babbit material over a short period of time while just sitting there. For the peace of mind, I would just replace them. Nothing like spending X amount of greenbacks on a freshen up just to...
I thought I got a Smokin' deal when I got my rust free 96 TSi AWD rolling chassis for $150. Mine didn't have GC suspension or a Shep trans though....or a 6-bolt.... I digress..... Looks like a HG fo sho. I would definitely be tempted to get that thing hot tanked and then get all new bearings...
Beware of grinding your crank undersize. These units were heat treated by Mitsubishi and if you turn them you will take the layer of hardening with it. This leaves the crank more vulnerable to wear a lot sooner than it ordinarily would be. Have the machine shop check and see if it is...
The easiest way I know of to tell non-invasively if you have a 6 or 7 bolt that is definitive, is to look at the front flange of the oil pan behind the balancer. If it goes straight across under the front case, it's a 6-bolt. If it dips down in a curve under the front case then it's a 7-bolt...
The first step I would take is to either purchase or download the factory service manual or at the very least a Haynes or Chilton manual for the car and familiarize yourself with it. Step two, I would do the standard compression and leakdown tests to ensure proper cylinder pressure. Basically...
I noticed you said in your first post that you had air and spark and way too much fuel. I'm thinking that there's an issue with the ECM. It sounds almost like the part of the computer which is in charge of injector cycle times is fried and the injectors may be stuck open. If you take your plugs...
To put your mind at ease even better, you can do a compression and leak down test and if you want to get really fancy, you can do a refractometer test with the antifreeze to test for hydrocarbons in the coolant. If it's green across the board, beat it until its morale improves... :hellyeah:
I would hold off on the two spare computers you have for right now. Is the one that's in it stock or something like an AEM or Link? Also, was the car running well before the jumper cable incident?
Welcome from Taxachussetts! It sounds like you got a hell of a deal, man. Your buddy may be right about the smoke. A junk PCV valve or a PCV system not suited to the boost you're running will definitely cause smoke. If you're not running a good quality catch can, I would do that as well. Check...
I've had a bum idle switch do this exact same thing on my Talon if I had either the A/C or the defrost on (uses the A/C to dry the air). The idle switch is supposed to kick up the idle to compensate for the extra load of the compressor. May not be it, but I'm throwing it out there. Also, is this...
I would replace the aforementioned parts and carefully run it. If the noise is gone you may have dodged the bullet for now, but this may have shortened the life of the oil pump. Keep an eye on the gauges and don't push her too much until you know it's fine. Good luck!
Just to get it off my list of possibles, while you were doing the timing belt, did you happen to notice if the two front oil pan bolts were sticking through the holes? If the bolts are too long they'll hit the timing belt enough to cause a noise, but I've never heard of that noise going away...
The two chunks won't be the noise you're hearing. I think they're when it started. Like Chrysler Kid said the noise is coming from the oil pump. He is accurate about the seal as well. And yeah, the balancer is definitely not trustworthy either. Those two chunks are the very reason Mitsubishi...
Ok, so when the P/S belt is off and the car is running it whines? Do you have to be moving? Is it only when you turn the wheels? Does it make noise only when it's running? I have a couple theories, just trying to narrow them down...
From the info you gave us, I would check the TCC solenoid or it may be a bad converter. It sounds like the converter is trying to lock up, but either the solenoid is sticking or there's something wrong internally in the converter itself. I've also seen a weak pump have similar symptoms if it's...
Were you under load (accelerating) when this happened? Were you in the process of shifting? If you accidentally over shifted, it may be a bent shift fork in the transmission, which would make it either not go into gear or go past the gear. Either way it will yell at you since the gears aren't...
Check your power steering fluid. Make sure it's full and doesn't have grey metallic in it. Make sure it doesn't smell burnt. If it's not too bad, I would do a power steering flush and see if it improves. If you use any type of additive, just make sure it's a reputable one. Some are too thick or...
Just make sure that you have all the bell housing bolts to put back in. Everyone forgets to put the one going from the block to the trans back in. All the others go from the trans to the block, but if you're missing the one I'm talking about, the application force on the pressure plate will be...
From what I see, if you're extremely lucky, you can replace both belts and the timing tensioner and pulleys, find all three timing covers and install them, get a new oil pump sprocket and the correct nut, and line up all the marks during installation. Make sure there's no play at all in the oil...
Post a pic of the turbo and we can give you a hand. It depends what it's off of. If it has a DSM hot side, pretty much any of them will fit as Bling said. There's usually an option no matter what's on it...
If I remember correctly, I believe any 1997-1999 Eclipse, Talon, Dodge Avenger or Chrysler Sebring will fit as long as it's front wheel drive, non-turbo. That's the theory anyways. I always try to match year, make, model and engine if possible. I've been led astray by Hollander Interchange...
I agree with Oren and Mauispyder. Without measurements and total disassembly of the engine, you don't really know what the true condition is. If it was running good with no smoking or driveability issues, just perform regular maintenance, do a stocky head gasket and take an air gun to the...
The engine looks freaking amazing! Love the Kiggley Brace and ARP's. Nice build! Looking at the pictures of the 14b though, You're going to need a new hot side housing at the very least. If you epoxy it, the expansion and contraction rates of the epoxy won't match the cast iron and it won't be...
I would first try to locate the leak and remedy that before anything else. If the mounts are bad pay attention to the transmission case where the mount brackets are bolted. I've seen the cases crack and leak (rare, but does happen). Also look at the seals and pan. Make sure no one bottomed the...
I would unplug and test the sensor with a meter while using a mitivac to supply vacuum and pressure. The readings should fluctuate. If not, it's junk...
Best way to do it is to remove the whole rear seal housing and remove the seal that way. Plus, you can reseal the housing at the same time since they're usually weeping by the time the seal goes. Just use Mitsubond or Ultra Grey or Black RTV and make sure to get some on the bottom where it meets...
I would use either Mitsubond or Ultra Grey Permatex at the very least. DO NOT USE THE AUTO PARTS STORES OIL PAN GASKET!!!!! IT WILL LEAK!!!!! These cars were not meant to have oil pan gaskets. Why do you think there are channels stamped in the sheet metal oil pan flange? It's for the bead of...
The 1G CAS has an adjustment track on both bolt holes holding the housing to the head. I would try replacing the BISS O-ring and adjust it before messing with anything else. Kinda kicking myself for not remembering that one...
Double check to see if it's a 1G CAS or the stock one. If it's a 1G, you can turn them like a distributor to effect your base timing. That could be off. Also, are you running any kind of piggyback or stand alone engine management system like ECMLink or AEM? If it's a stock ECM, that's a lot of...
I would also port that oil teardrop before putting it on the block. Especially being shaved, you'll be reduceing oil volume to the head. Pretty easy to do and will prevent oil starvation to the top end. Looks great though. +1 on the revised or 3G lifters as well. I've never heard ticking from...
Could be the injectors. Also, if you started on E85 and switched back to gas, did you retune? Bosch injectors can be clackey, but usually not enough to create knock readings. And I would check the gasket between the head and exhaust manifold as well as the exhaust manifold and turbo and the O2...
What CAS are you running, the stock 2G or is it an adjustable 1G? Also, I would verify that the peripheral sensors are in spec such as the coolant temp, TPS, MAF, IAC, etc. Are you still running an EGR? I would see if that is carboned up. Just some possibilities...
+1, but I would keep it in the back of my mind that if the fingers got too hot where they spun on the bearing that it may have affected the temper of the steel and made the fingers brittle. They look pretty purple. If that happens, you can break fingers off and be in a world of hurt. Happened to...
Double check grounds and test the CAS (Cam Angle Sensor). If you had the head off, especially if you've done work to the head, they can get bumped around and it may have gotten touched in the no-no spot. If you're using a 1G CAS, you may need to adjust it again or it may be installed 180* out of...
When it stops, does it lock up? will it turn over consistently, or does it have "hard spots"? Sounding like either something wrong with the timing or the firing order is wrong. Either that or one of the cylinders is a swimming pool and you're hydrolocking... More info please...
I feels ya brah. I've met so many people who just don't understand these things and think they're all that until it blows up. Then it's the car's fault and they go buy a Civic. Reading an issue of Super Street does NOT make you a DSM mechanic, and what's worse is some of the shops around that...
I'm thinking the block is borderline. I could reuse it with a shaft eliminator kit and boring the cylinders over, but I have to check with my dial bore indicator to see if these are still 84mm or not. I would get it magged and hot tanked too.... He's on the fence as to whether he buys my 7-bolt...
Apparently it was a young kid that my buddy bought this from. I have no idea what he paid for it, but it was too much. It's a shame because it's a rust free 60k car, but it has a Terminator wing, cheap ground effects bondo-d on, triangle vents in the bump and both front fenders, and, get...