Mostly complete. (Removed from a crashed '91 AWD Talon hit in the quarterpanel.) The odometer showed 100k miles. MISSING: injectors, water pump, alternator. Oil filter mounting surface/oil cooler is damaged. I doubt the filter gasket will seal. ENGINE HAS BEEN SITTING IN THE GARAGE SINCE '05...

Try adding the hoseclamps in the middle. I had a pile of large ones on hand, but two radiator sized hooked together should be long enough to get around it. It seems to give it some structural rigidity to keep from collapsing. Ideally they should be on the inside, but that's not very practical...

There are a couple factors that you may be dealing with. One is that the bearings in the waterpump are rather strange. They appear to require a huge side load to get the rolling elements to roll, instead of skid, in the races. I have no idea why this would be, but some years ago I had to...

I quoted the wrong size. It was the smaller pump that they make. Don't know why 255 popped into my mind.I'm thinking you would need a dyno to run it on to see the hose distort under operating conditions.Glad the car transporter decided to park his rig on the cross street. While he was...

Car is sold. Shipped to TX. Engine and other parts are still available.

"My guess is the stock intake pipe is collapsing under boost."BINGO!!!Installed a hose clamp as suggested, and the problem mostly disappeared. Slow rev no problem. Stomp on it, and you can feel it starting to fade a bit as it passes 6500rpm.Thank you , ist dwa!

"... ziptie them up." The potential problem with this is that the end yokes may come apart,, as at least one of the two ends of the axle is only held on by the boot when not installed where it belongs. Also, you are getting those clean, greased parts dirty, unless you bag them. Hanging those...

Don't assume you have ruined the bearings. It appears that most of the bearings are ball type, some of them double row. So far I can't find the outer front bearings listed, so I'm unsure of it. I suspect that without the axle stubs, the bearings have walked out of position, hence the wobble. If...

I have some random 1G/2.0L parts I've collected over the last 15 years or so. These are primarily for the AWD cars. Originally I intended to include them with the car, but it was pointed out that this might restrict the field of potential buyers.Car is a '91 AWD Talon, with the leather...

I'll check as soon as it quits raining kittens and puppies. I might have one with my spare motor, need to check both.

I'm pretty sure the cam belt is set correctly. I've replaced it at least 3 times by now. Always acted the same. Bit fanatical about gear alignment for this.I change the belt about every 30k miles. A sister had an identical Talon that broke that belt every 40k. That may not be common, but I'd...

Wastegate appears to be closed. Moves freely when the rod is disconnected, and reconnects without preload. Still need to get the compressor fired up to check the wastegate pot. No obvious cracks in the turbo housing. It's making boost, as it pulls hard when I put my foot in it. I know what it...

Drat, the front connection is a slip joint that just pulls out of the transfer case. Try to have the car jacked higher in the rear to keep the oil from running out. A softdrink cup may slide over the tail section and seal this from leaking while the shaft is out, and keep things clean. If you...

My first thought would be that the driveshaft support bearings are hitting the support due to deterioration of the rubber that suspends them inside the hangers. That driveshaft has two of these, since the shaft has three sections, and each of those middle joints need these to control movement...

The switch sounds like a possible. Car is totally stock under the hood. TPS has been checked and swapped before. Replaced the Caps on the ecu maybe tens years earlier. Recently checked and they looked okay. Brand new Cat Convertor.(see original post on this item) Pulls strong to 5500 and then...

BTW, the posts and clamps need to be fairly shiny. When it gets dark, it becomes an insulator. If the surface is black, it is totally insulated electrically. (it also is very hard, and typically has to be scraped clean very aggressively to get to good metal that conducts)

The starter could have developed an internal problem that causes a high current draw. That would manifest as slow spinning of the engine, and contribute to poor ignition performance. If it still spins slow with a jumper battery assisting, the starter is bad, or you have bad cable connections...

In the intake tract. I would be inclined to pull the hose off the intake manifold to spray, but you have to replace the hose before starting. If there is a vacuum fitting that can be uncapped near the throttle body, that might be easier. Good time to check for blockage.

Drat, ended too soon. If it starts with that spray, but doesn't continue to run, that would indicate a fuel supply issue. Pump, regulator, wiring to injectors, ecu, or lack of fuel in the tank. Could also be water in the fuel that froze, blacking fuel delivery. Considering how cold it is, that...

Have you tried spraying some starting fluid/ether? When conditions are marginal (car and/or weather) that may be a sufficiently easy fuel to ignite. Basically, if it won't start with this, you have a problem with ignition or mechanical (valves, etc). Oh, sometimes it is lack of air, such as a...

This problem has been ongoing for years. Plugs and wires don't help. Swapped the coil from my spare engine, no change. Ignitor box, ditto. Cleaned the injectors. (removed them and soaked them in Sea Foam with a power supply to hold them open, to expose the internals for complete cleaning. Wow...

"I will agree that a battery @12.7v is ideal, I've started my car with the battery sitting as low as 11.7v, and it's rear-relocated."There are basically two minimum voltages that a vehicle requires to start/run. One would be what the starter circuit requires to function. The other is the...

dustyboner, that's an excellent article! That should be a sticky post.Paul, you advise against using a caliper, but no explanation why. Properly used, it is just as accurate as a dial indicator for most applications, and is just an all-around better tool due to cost and more uses. Yeah, I...

As Paul stated, you need to measure that step. Accurately. Got a Horror Fright Tool store nearby? Get a digital caliper, 6 inch is the common size, about $10-$20. Generally you would use the tail end rod to extend down to the second surface. It should be able to switch between reading in metric...

"I never had a problem pulling the transmission on my 91 AWD Talon with the engine in, they're all a tight fit though." ************* That's what I kept reading, but it was hitting solid parts of the car, and no amount of rotation and prying would get the trans out of the clutch. I tried...

YES, they DO move like that. How do you think they cut a taper on a lathe? I have a vague recollection that old dedicated flywheel cutters didn't have that capability. They were designed to cut a flat perpendicular surface and had no other utility. When you get into recessed surfaces, you have...

Your symptoms sound like mine.There is another possible screwup by the shop that did the flywheel: It's not flat. They cut it on a bevel. It's now like a very shallow cone. You would think this would be a no-brainer for a shop, but apparently not. (It slopes down in the center, so it's not...

I was told by my father that the Talon 1G body was better than the Laser and Eclipse. He said he found internal bracing in the Talon body that the others didn't have, that he claimed made it stiffer and quieter (less squeaks and rattles) due to less body flex.He was an autobodyman, and had...

I had an '86 Colt Turbo. Great little car. Got 30mpg on the freeway. Maybe 25mpg mixed. Always had Valvoline 15-40 since new, and you could eat off the inside of the motor. Had the gasket under the throttle body leak at about 100k. I think rear wheel bearings about the same time. Interior...

Typically, any 4x4 pickup that is not a ball of rust, and moves under it's own power, is worth at least $1k. That's pretty much true anywhere in the US. Mostly, they go for more than that. Varies some depending on location. Here in CA, that would be a screaming deal. Chevy's are easy to work...

I'm planning to beat feet soon. BTW,The Big One(tm) is due within 30 years. This place is a bit different from PA. Grew up near Philly, mostly.Yeah, if the coast moved 30-50 miles inland, most all the Liberals would get very wet. Wish the rest of the state would split off on their own. Could...

One factor no one has mentioned is the impact that the idiotic "Clunkers for Cash" had on used vehicles and parts. The local junkyards were suddenly flooded with old cars, including DSMs. Prior to that, there were always a half dozen in most of the Bay Area yards, and they sat there for many...

The darker the lead battery connections are, the greater the electrical resistance. They can reach a point (usually black) where they are a total insulator. The flickering gauges would seem to indicate that there is no battery in the system, and it is running on just the charging system...

There are two potential areas of clearance concern. One is valve to piston. The other is valve to valve. Valve to piston is usually handled by clearance cuts in the face of the piston. In this case, they would need to be able to leave space with the piston at TDC and the valve at full extension...

On that Oregon car: The way the rubber is lifting around the upper driver's windshield corner should be looked at carefully. Might be rust underneath, or previous poor bodywork. Could just be the gasket shrinking, though. Not impressed by the paintjob. Overspray on the rubber and probably some...

Not today. Just got back from bank and parts store. Someone tried to raid my bank account, according to the bank clerk, so the bank deleted my card. Had to order front axles (blown boots) and clutch assy to do a proper job. I can't stand to do shlock work. Still contemplating adding the motor to...

Since no one has offered any tech advice for the problem, it looks like I am forced to swap in my spare trans. Didn't want to get into working on the car, as I had intended to sell it. Not going to have the time to add the matching engine, unfortunately. I think. We'll see. Got an engine and...

The driveway has a slope, and so does the street. IF it rolls, that would get it out of the driveway, but would end up parked probably two houses down the street to get it to the curb. Working on it there would not be acceptable, or legal, for that matter. Getting it back into the driveway would...

Make sure none of the pulleys have any wobble, prior to replacing the belt. Ensure the alternator and water pump feel good rotating by hand.When you put a new belt on, it will require a considerable amount of pre-load to keep bearings from squealing. Generally, it seems to require the belt to...

Hi all. I've got an odd transmission problem. Haven't found it listed (no guarantee I didn't miss it, of course).Car is a '91 Talon AWD 5 spd. Totally stock. About 170k miles. San Jose, CA area. (Milpitas, actually.)Trans made a slight whine/howl going down the freeway. Got home, pulled the...

Clip #27 cannot be correct, since it shows only quantity of ONE. There are two needed. The thing is a molded plastic piece with a hex nut in the center. The plastic cracks and doesn't hold the nut from spinning. Very difficult to remove, and it will not be re-useable once you do get it off...

Thank you. I'll have to check out the liquid plastic, after I take a fresh look at that plastic block. I have a vague recollection of small tabs broken off of them, also. I was thinking that after I get my vertical mill running, I would replicate them, maybe in aluminum. Don't really need...

For the rear hatch water leak: Remove the wiper arm, and pop the plastic piece out of the wing that fits under the wiper. Look closely at the rubber shaft seal. Cracked or broken? What I discovered is the dished plastic cover acts like a funnel, channeling the water right past the broken wiper...

Look at the top of the dash. Clearly broken and cracked in multiple locations. Worst is just above the right side of the instrument/radio pod. This may just be from the door pushing in on the end of the dash were they meet when the door is closed. But, could be from the body itself being...

Sorry about the length. It looked like a teachable moment, so to speak!Flatbed drivers just want to run the cable and bridle straight under the front of the car. In this case, not good. Sometimes you have to use the pulley to run the cable off to the side of the bed, so you can bring the cable...

I think you'll find that the estimate will be more than the "book" value of the car. That is all the ins co is going to be willing to pay, generally. That box section under the door IS the frame, more or less. Pulling/jacking that into place, and keeping the correct measurements/dimensions of...

Has the car been lowered? If so, that factor alone creates a big problem for a towdriver. A broken b-j is a BIG problem for a flatbed. It is exponentially worse if lowered. Most flatbeds will end up doing some sort of damage, due to the end of the bed not reaching the wheels before the front...