So I swapped my crappy mishimoto fans out for a nice Derale pusher and a FAL puller. I put the puller on the radiator fan side and the pusher on the AC side, due to packaging constraints.Both fans are 2 wire, so the OEM 4 wire high and lo wires on harness side are tied together on both sides...

Well, I'm back. I ended up finding and having to battle a bunch of issues, finally have the car back together after chasing issues with exhaust leaks and fuel tank leaks and I ran it and it still really wants to sit at .43 gm/rev at idle, I think maybe that's juts what you get with 9:1 and GSC...

And here's another log with more driving, it seems to drive pretty well, although it isn't making any power with the waste gate pinned open by my SCG-1's safeties lol. The idle at the very end shows .31 gm/rev of air, the trims are way off though. Just thought more data may help.

I used your timing and a slightly altered VE and fuel settings from my previous run, it was also cooler and more dense outside, I think, and here is the log I got. I'm beginning to think that this is within the realm of "normal" for the combo of GSC S2s and lowered compression, based on some...

That's my thought. I'm gonna pull it in and double check everything again tonight. starts first or second turn every time and idles pretty well, though, actually. I'm kind of leaning toward the rings still aren't fully seated yet, but it can't hurt to re-check mechanical timing.

Hello, This is a "crosspost" with my post on the ECMlink forums, I thought I'd ask here as well to maximize exposure.I am having some issues with my car, it's a 1995 GSX with a basic 2.0 7 bolt, Wiseco 8.5:1 pistons/eagle rods and crank bottom end, (built by me - first engine I've ever built...

For the sake of anyone who runs into this thread, I think the gates belts just make a bit of dust when they wear in, I verified to the best of my ability that the belts are correctly tensioned, I compared the different front cases and there is no difference in the area of the tensioner, so I am...

Ok, I verified that it's an oem 2g tensioner, and it is indeed facing the correct way according to this thread: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/balance-shaft-belt-position.515025/I tried a pulley that I had that turned out to be a 1g pulley, and it hit the crank trigger plate, so I flipped...

I just realized I should have updated this thread, I ended up having my local machine shop take .001 off the ID of the rear BS bearing, and it's in the motor now. If it was a bad idea I'll make aure to post the results.

Thanks for all the replies, guys.I found two threads where it was stated that the 97-up part number for the pulley had superseded the 95-96 part, and that the inside-lip version pulleys were no longer in production.JNZ and STM only have 1g and 2g versions listed. The block is a 95 or 96 -...

Hello, fellow DSMers. Perhaps you can help me.I just built a motor for my 2g, put it in, started it for a 20 minute first run and afterward I wanted to double check everything, make sure my T belt looked good, and front main and tensioner bolts weren't leaking, (they weren't. hooray.)When I...

For the sake of conversation - can't you evo swap a 420a car, since the engine bay is wrong in those too?

You could also go with a Torque Solutions/ Avid racing mount. I have the TS ones in my car and it works great. Kind of a pain to install. Which part of the mount broke? The plate that goes on the trans, or the mount that goes on top of that? Because the plate gets reused with new mounts. Also...

I always find that the spline needs to be rotated just a bit, so I usually have to get the spline lined up and kinda wiggle/rotate the trans to get the spline to line up, then it goes right in. Also, make sure your dowels are straight and in good shape I had a dowel that was really bad and I got...

So it would appear that my part numbers are incorrect the MD082302 that I got does not have an oil hole so that’s the incorrect one. I’m gonna try having bearings turned down at a shop or I’ll try a set of ACL’s next, the other part numbers for the OEM appear to be unobtanium. And my shaft is...

Well, I have been in limbo but I found part#s for .001 oversized BS bearings: MD082301 = left shaft front bearing MD082302 = left shaft rear bearing MD103723 = right shaft bearing. I ordered them, then got the dreaded “this part no longer exists” email from the retailer. I tried a couple more...

So, I have my rotating assembly in, everything is good, I have my front case with balance shafts installed and everything, and I slide it in and the oil pump shaft is fine, but the B shaft is tight enough I have to turn it with a wrench. It is not binding on the case, everything turns freely...

Hmmm I’m not sure I guess I would just try to measure the difference with calipers and probably take it off the inside.Hmm, I’m not sure I guess I would measure the difference and just take it off the inside of the case, that way the gear wouldn’t interfere and I think it would be ok. if it’s...

This is exactly the issue I’m having. I’m gonna use a low mile oem front case I have and see how that goes. Did you give any thought to having a machine shop try to shave the boss on the front case? That was my other idea to still be able to use this case with a front BS.

Well I tried to find a washer that would fit but they don’t seem to exist lol. Back to the drawing board.

Is there a thread of his I’m missing? I’ve been searching and I can find hardly anything that isn’t a bs delete thread lol. I try to be diligent about searching first haha. I’m gonna go find a shim, I think. That’s my current plan anyway. My backup is just pull my whole front case and bs out of...

i am putting together my front case, I have one that previously had the shafts deleted and I am putting them back in before installing. The oil pump side goes fine, but the front balance shaft binds up completely when I tighten it. I am assembling everything correctly, the seal is in all the way...

This wrecks the balance shaft, doesn’t it? Jafro says in the video that it toasts the shaft. I just need to go get more brands of 32 mm socket I think. But I already put the front bearing in, I think that slight misalignment is gonna be ok based on DSMPT’s reply and a friend who has experience...

The only socket I’ve managed to find that hits the bearing, but fits through the hole in the block always bites the friction surface of the bearing, they never seem to come out clean. I have a driver to get it in but it doesn’t fit through the bore. And I think this block in particular is a bit...

Thanks for the reply DSMPT. I think it’s gonna be fine, I’m gonna leave it. It’s barely off, I doubt I’d do better a second time and I’d have to wait on a bearing in the mail.

I gave it a couple more taps because the bearing was not quite seated, it looks like this now. Again sorry for the potato quality I can barely get the camera in there. I think I’m just gonna send it though that looks like plenty of room for flow, right?

I am installing the rear balance shaft bearing to put my engine back together, and I had a hell of a time lining it up. I thought I had it dead on, but I guess my mark was off, I can only see what I’m doing with a little endoscope I have. Anyway, it’s misaligned by maybe 1/5 of the total oil...

I have had this problem myself last time I did my 2g. I had never had an issue installing a TB before, but I must have rushed and got an extra belt tooth between the oil pump and the intake cam. If that happens it can look like the marks are on, but it’s not right. The order of events installing...

I dunno, man... I feel like this should have been titled “cars won’t make people like you”. Or “being an influencer is hollow and pathetic”, it really seems like this dude thinks his car is goi g to make the other parts of his life better somehow, and yeah, if that’s what’s up you’re gonna be...

Hey check your timing belt tension when cold. That sounds exactly like when my TB tensioner went and was allowing the belt to slap. It was super hard to tell with the cover on, but the belt got super slack after cooling down. If that’s it I’d do a whole timing job.

So I am building my first motor, nothing special just Manley h beams and pistons, stock crank 450 horse goal kinda deal. I had acquired a used 7 bolt crank to use, and upon measuring it it’s a bit out of spec - #2-#4 rod journals are 1.7710 - 1.7712” which is it great, but the #1 rod journal is...

I’ll take one.

Do yourself a favor and go over to ecmtuning and read all of the quick start and user guides. There is a lot of good info there that would be silly to duplicate here. Ecmlink is a very powerful diagnostic tool in addition to it’s tuning capability, and it would be very helpful to you to...

You said it’s spitting water... is this from the exhaust? If it smells like coolant and it’s in the exhaust, I think we know how that got there. Not sure if that would cause your p0115 though. Can you do a leak down test? What caused you to replace the coolant sensor? Did it overheat? Chase the...

Ok I’m an idiot. The timing was off. Pics included. The pics where it’s off are the old ones and the ones where it looks right are the new ones. Worn out little plastic cam gear doodad meant the cams were off a bit. I even had the balance shaft belt off a tooth because I had been trying to...

Ok I finally have some free time for my car, and I was initially doing the leak down wrong. I assumed since 1 and 4 were at tdc simultaneously I could test 4 with 1 in position and 2 and 3 likewise. This time I rotated the engine through the firing order and tested each cyl on tdc compression...

Could it be the valves and come out cyl 3? I’ve always been told that a compression test will tell if the valves are good, a leak down tester will tell if the rings and gasket are good. I’ll redo the test in the AM. I have lots of spare time this week and Autox next weekend so I’m gonna pop he...

It was a Topline gasket from a complete engine gasket kit. I knew it wasn’t optimal but I wasn’t resurfacing the block so I was afraid to go MLS. I have been planning to pull the motor and fully build it, but the season was starting and I just thought this would be a good enough bandaid for a...

Hey guys sorry I took a while to update, I have been busy drinking to salve the pain. I threw a leak down tester on it, cyl 1- totally good. Like 0 leakage. Cyl 4? All of its air comes right out the hole in cyl 3. It holds 0 pressure. I didn’t even test 2 and 3. So...hooray for my valves but RIP...

One thought- could my FPR be failing and allowing too much fuel pressure in the rail? I may have to test that...

The only thing I see that scares me in the logs is my vacuum being 8-10 where it used to be @17. I had the front case cover off, the timing belt, pulleys, etc. but nothing related to the intake. I’m picking up a leak down tester today and I’ll post results. I’ll post a log from before when the...

Ok, here are logs. The first is from before, the second I just captured, and I managed to get the o2 sensor to respond! By cutting my deadtime all the way to 100, and cranking global global from 38.7 to 44, I was able to get my trims back in line. but now I'm way off from where the calculator...

Hello everyone, hoping for some help here... so I had to tear the car down to fix a front main seal leak, it was running great before this, just saw some oil on the timing belt and bottom of the case. Anyway, I got it back together, and I was in a hurry, and I had the oil pump out of phase and...

So hypothetically, if a guy were to do this, not notice, and start the car what would happen? Bent valves? Or just lots of vibration from out of phase bs?

I did my first head gasket a while ago and I thought about this situation in a panic while eating dinner one night. Luckily mine was correct when I sprinted out to the garage to check. I would think that if the cams were out of phase the balance shafts would need to be as well? That makes my...

Cut up my filter and its clean as a whistle, no metal at all. I change my oil at 3kor so and it's always the same and fairly clean. A while ago when changing it I found one or two flakes of similar material to this, the size of a grain of black pepper, and I thought I had a rod bearing headed...

Oh I forgot to mention I have a big -10 (I think) AN oil return right to the pan on the 16g, no idea what the previous owner did with his stock turbo oil drain, maybe this was there. The pieces fit easily, Its big.

After googling it I think it is indeed pieces of a (t25?) thrust bearing. The previous owner put this 16g on the car when he had the bottom end rebuilt, I'm wondering if this is why. If that's the case these have been in my pan resisting draining out for, let's say 8-10 oil changes. And that's...

It definitely is not iron, I checked with a magnet. Its bronze, brass or copper. I'm just trying to figure out where to even look. Crank looking at another thrust bearing I had laying around I'm pretty sure it's not thrust bearing. I'll update tomorrow.

Well I pulled the pan as part of some work and as I got it off I could hear these fellas rattling around in it. Any idea? Not sure if I should start pulling the block. The car ran smooth and sounded fine til it blew a head gasket between 2&3, I was just pulling the pan while I did the HG cuz i...